Low buck projects- Let's see 'em!

[Jgbrown]

West marine fender holder in ss. Exactly the right size to mount a lite cylinder propane tank and keep it off my new teak. Beats milk crate any day, spacing allows easy building of a panel for the two stage regulator, solenoid and running hoses vertical to proper fittings in the deck. Cost me 55$ for the fender basket, and 30$ for the pair of proper thru deck fittings. Much better than typical cable ones or clamshell types imo.





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[fryewe]

I am restoring a Nor'sea 27 that sank. The engine and engine controls and all the associated electrics were ruined. I installed a reconditioned Yanmar 2QM15 that I bought a few years ago and new engine controls.

Finding a Type B engine control and instrument panel (key switch; push to start button; high temp and low lube oil pressure lamps; buzzer) for the cockpit was problematic because they are no longer made (and have a list price of over $1000 if one were available).

I checked the wiring diagram in the engine manual and decided to build my own. I had an old ignition switch in my toolkit (free). I bought two dashboard indicating lamps (about 2.50 each) and a push to start switch (about 7.00) from an online hot rod supply warehouse and a couple of 12V buzzers from Amazon (about 3.00 each).

I finished a piece of half inch okume plywood that was a cutoff from another project with Interlux Brightside; drilled holes and installed the push switch and indicators; and installed the plywood panel in the cockpit. I mounted the ignition switch and the buzzers inboard. After wiring the system it worked perfectly - provides engine start controls and visual and audible instrumentation for high temp and low oil pressure- and cost me less than twenty bucks.

I used a little dolfinite to seal the indicators in their holes and a little BoatLife caulk to seal the panel against the cockpit well bulkhead.

[SloopJonB]

Originally Posted by fryewe

I am restoring a Nor'sea 27 that sank. The engine and engine controls and all the associated electrics were ruined. I installed a reconditioned Yanmar 2QM15 that I bought a few years ago and new engine controls.

Finding a Type B engine control and instrument panel (key switch; push to start button; high temp and low lube oil pressure lamps; buzzer) for the cockpit was problematic because they are no longer made (and have a list price of over $1000 if one were available).

I checked the wiring diagram in the engine manual and decided to build my own. I had an old ignition switch in my toolkit (free). I bought two dashboard indicating lamps (about 2.50 each) and a push to start switch (about 7.00) from an online hot rod supply warehouse and a couple of 12V buzzers from Amazon (about 3.00 each).

I finished a piece of half inch okume plywood that was a cutoff from another project with Interlux Brightside; drilled holes and installed the push switch and indicators; and installed the plywood panel in the cockpit. I mounted the ignition switch and the buzzers inboard. After wiring the system it worked perfectly - provides engine start controls and visual and audible instrumentation for high temp and low oil pressure- and cost me less than twenty bucks.

I used a little dolfinite to seal the indicators in their holes and a little BoatLife caulk to seal the panel against the cockpit well bulkhead.

Nicely done. What did you do for an engine kill switch?

[fryewe]

SJB:
Interrogative "kill switch"?

I put the engine stop cable control just below and to starboard inside the main companionway adjacent to the main battery and engine ignition switches. There is no electrical "kill switch."

[SloopJonB]

Originally Posted by fryewe

SJB:
Interrogative "kill switch"?

I put the engine stop cable control just below and to starboard inside the main companionway adjacent to the main battery and engine ignition switches. There is no electrical "kill switch."

Good spot for it. Mine is (was) a push button, like a start button, that activated a solenoid "cable puller".

[Bob142]

Before I get jumped on by the people that say how important quality is in LED's ...I will be happy if my cheap ones last for half of the 100,000 hours of the quality ones...

I bought 3 lights for 1.25 each at the dollar store...I broke them down...daisy chained them together...3 batteries are 4.5 volts each so they seem to handle the 12volt system well and aren't bothered by the charging load while running...I now have LED cabin lights for a total cost of $3.75 each...
https://www.dropbox.com/home#!/home/sailnet%201

[bljones]

An update on some older low-buck projects:

Dock Six Chronicles: Low-Buck Long Term Review: Hits and Misses, Part 1

[Ritchard]

Originally Posted by bljones

An update on some older low-buck projects:

Dock Six Chronicles: Low-Buck Long Term Review: Hits and Misses, Part 1

Thanks for that. You ARE a busy bee.

[Sumner10]

Originally Posted by Bob142

Before I get jumped on by the people that say how important quality is in LED's ...I will be happy if my cheap ones last for half of the 100,000 hours of the quality ones...

I bought 3 lights for 1.25 each at the dollar store...I broke them down...daisy chained them together...3 batteries are 4.5 volts each so they seem to handle the 12volt system well and aren't bothered by the charging load while running...I now have LED cabin lights for a total cost of $3.75 each...
https://www.dropbox.com/home#!/home/sailnet%201

I need a password for that link or do I have to setup an account?

I'd like to see the pictures,

Sum

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Our 37 Endeavour --- Our 26 MacGregor --- Trips With Both

[therapy23]

Thanks for the truth.

Others should do the same.