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Low buck projects- Let's see 'em!

858K views 2K replies 341 participants last post by  pdqaltair 
#1 ·
In this forum, we've seen big projects on small boats and small projects on big boats- let's see the cheap projects! Show us what you have done on your boat on a budget.
Here's the rules:

1) Gotta be under $100 US, or equivalent currency.

2) You must have done it yourself. Although, if you found someone to work on your boat for less than $100, feel free to post contact info.

3) bonus points will be given for elegance and ingenuity.

Here's one of mine:

I needed a cockpit table. Well, I, personally, didn't need a cockpit table, but the admiral did, and I need a warm place to sleep, so you can see how the stars aligned on this one. I sussed out commercially available, marine priced cockpit tables and promptly gagged. So, I thought to myself, "self, you could make it yourself for a lot less." One problem. Well, four actually. I have limited woodworking skills, limited woodworking tools, and limited time. oh yeah, and I am cheap.
So, I went to plan "c".

I spent some time eyeballing the cockpit in question:


Then I moseyed into action. I bought one of these for $29.99


A frenzy of measuring, remeasuring, cutting, screwing, drinking, varnishing, etc. later, and this is how it finished up:



Let's see yours.
 
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#1,595 ·
I've heard some people say they have a binary depth sounder - their keel. Either they're aground or they're not.

Well, I have a binary amp meter. Either I've blown the fuse or I haven't. So I know that the drill draws less than 15 amps, but I couldn't say how much less. If it bogs down it does drop the voltage enough so that you can see the cabin lights dim.
 
#1,599 ·
already had a jetboil burner, was already thinking about getting another one (java model) so all that was needed was the wood, about 40$ and have plenty leftover for a few other projects.

I have a 2 burner stove, but it's a bit too wide for my galley and I wanted a gimballed stove
 
#1,601 ·
I made a may raising system today from stuff I already had laying around the shop. An 8 ft 2x3, 2 5/16" eye bolts, 2 smaller eye screws,a couple 2" wood screws, a scrap of line and main sheet with tackle.
Apparently the whole mast raising/lowering was really stressful on the wife. Now, it's so simple and controlled. This is easily the best mod so far.


Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
 
#1,602 · (Edited)
I made a may raising system today from stuff I already had laying around the shop. An 8 ft 2x3, 2 5/16" eye bolts, 2 smaller eye screws,a couple 2" wood screws, a scrap of line and main sheet with tackle.
Apparently the whole mast raising/lowering was really stressful on the wife. Now, it's so simple and controlled. This is easily the best mod so far...
I would strongly recommend that you PLEASE DO NOT use any gin pole out that is made out of lumber. I had a very similar arrangement made out of a 2x4, with multiple eye bolts on both sides like yours. Mine used a winch and strap (instead of block and tackle). I used it to raise and lower my mast at the beginning and end of every season. It worked fine for a few years, but in spring of 2016 I heard a "crack" as I was raising my mast. Since the mast was almost all the way up (where tension was lower), I kept cranking (and praying), since I knew that lowering it would increase the tension again and could lead to catastrophe. Once the mast was up, I removed the gin pole for inspection and was appalled at what I saw. I had carefully calculated all the stresses when I designed it, but I failed to account for how the eye bolts would be torqued within the holes I had drilled. That massive torque caused splitting and separation along the wood grain. I had very narrowly averted disaster. If you use your wooden gin pole built with a 2x3, you will eventually encounter the same problem:

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#1,603 ·
Thanks for the tip. I used some screws to help alleviate that problem, screwed in from either side and long enough to almost poke out the far side. If it looks like that won't do it then I'll weld up a plate with a ring for each side and thru bolt it. The pole is 8' long to keep the stress down and yet still be able to store it. I'll be sure to inspect it each time though.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
 
#1,606 ·
Our mast tabernacle did not keep the mast in-line laterally. We had to try to support the mast itself to keep it from flopping from side to side. Personally, I think if you are not a little nervous raising the mast, you have not thought out all of the possible things that could happen with a failure. It is worth working to make it as robust as possible.
 
#1,607 ·
I agree, if you think of the damage done if there is a failure then wow. Even if the mast on my Hobie were to come tumbling down it could easily kill someone or do a lot of damage to a car. A keel boat's mast would be much worse. I am just trying to make it easier for a fat old middle aged guy to do it by myself. Even if I have people with me they won't likely know what to do anyway so I figure make it as easy as possible for me to do it myself is the safest. I know there are some kits available for the Hobie, but they utilize the post that supports the mast on the trailer, and mine is not high enough so a custom poll is in order.
 
#1,608 ·
On my SJ21, the chain plates are in line with the mast pivot point, so the shrouds keep the mast aligned on the way up and down. I have a couple lines for the gin pole to keep it aligned during the process, and tie them off on the deck railing.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
 
#1,611 ·
HemFir splits easily even stud grade. Use a double 2x4 instead of single 2x4. Through bolt with oversize washers both side.
Use eye bolt and eye nut which will reduce the number of holes by half. Cast eyes will distort less than bent wire. The load should be in line with the eye ring not perpendicular to the eye

Line the drilled hole with a short section of copper pipe as bushing (1/2" ID copper for 1/2" threaded bolt requires 5/8" bored hole) this reduces point loads from the threads on wood.

Western red cedar will split less than hemfir.

The majority of loads on a jin pole are compressive, if using a pipe select wall thickness for compressive loads.
 
#1,612 ·
I just had two steel pipes that were hammered flat on the ends. A hole was drilled through each end, and attached to the chainplates at the bottom, and together at the top. A block and tackle gave some mechanical advantage for raising. It helped a lot to have the furling foresail OFF the forestay. The weight of the genoa would put a bend in the forstay that would make the angle required to begin to pull the gin pole difficult to overcome. This wasn't so much of a problem if there was someone to lift the rig off the deck for the first 5 feet.
 
#1,613 ·
Cost, free! A guy in an inflatable dink ran hard up on the beach scaring all the women and children that were nearby. Us men folk sensing something wrong ran down to see what was going on. Turned out the plastic garboard plug in the fiberglass transom blew out and as long as he kept the throttle pinned the water would be sucked out. Everyone wondered around the near baren beach looking for something to plug the hole. I went to a friend's boat and got a mushroom type of wine cork. I whittled it down with my pookeet knife and stuffed in his garboard hole. Problem solved, Temporarliy I hope.

Also, thread bump.
 
#1,614 ·
It's been too long since the last entry. So here's mine.
I just finished a project and I have about $30 or less in it.
I have been wanting a tiller extention for a while. I had been looking at the Harken ones but I didn't want to drop $50-60 or better on it. So I made one!
I started by ordering a Ronstan Battlestick universal joint. Once I had that I looked around for a suitable handle. I looked at golf clubs but the shafts were way too narrow. There are no ski resorts any semblance of near to me so there are no ski poles. I ended up finding that a 3/4 aluminum pipe is just slightly larger than the joint. I had one laying in my scrap metal pile from a previous project. I wrapped some electrical tape around the joint to make up the difference then found a 1/4" line out in a Walmart parking lot. I used that to wrap a handle on the pipe. I started with a turk's head knot then french hitched about a 18" handle on followed by another turk's head knot. Turned out real nice.
From there I measured out how wide my cockpit is and decided that a little better than half the width would be a good size. I used a tubing cutter to make a clean straight cut, deburred the inside, then set the joint in. Once complete it looks great. I ordered a tube end cap off Amazon to finish it out and I'm all set.
Now if only I could get the weather to cooperate so I can go sailing. I've either not had any wind or been well below freezing but perfect wind. Or I have a perfect day but I'm stuck in the office. Bleh.
 
#1,615 ·
It's been too long since the last entry. So here's mine.
I just finished a project and I have about $30 or less in it.
I have been wanting a tiller extention for a while. I had been looking at the Harken ones but I didn't want to drop $50-60 or better on it. So I made one!
I started by ordering a Ronstan Battlestick universal joint. Once I had that I looked around for a suitable handle. I looked at golf clubs but the shafts were way too narrow. There are no ski resorts any semblance of near to me so there are no ski poles. I ended up finding that a 3/4 aluminum pipe is just slightly larger than the joint. I had one laying in my scrap metal pile from a previous project. I wrapped some electrical tape around the joint to make up the difference then found a 1/4" line out in a Walmart parking lot. I used that to wrap a handle on the pipe. I started with a turk's head knot then french hitched about a 18" handle on followed by another turk's head knot. Turned out real nice.
From there I measured out how wide my cockpit is and decided that a little better than half the width would be a good size. I used a tubing cutter to make a clean straight cut, deburred the inside, then set the joint in. Once complete it looks great. I ordered a tube end cap off Amazon to finish it out and I'm all set.
Now if only I could get the weather to cooperate so I can go sailing. I've either not had any wind or been well below freezing but perfect wind. Or I have a perfect day but I'm stuck in the office. Bleh.
Sorry, but without pictures, you never made it. :)
 
#1,618 ·
I had a productive day. I spent the morning playing around on my boat. Wish I could have been sailing but there was absolutely no wind. But boat projects are still fun. Here's what I got done.
First off I had to replace a piece on my companionway hatch.
Wood Automotive exterior Naval architecture Gas Vehicle door

The old one is on top. Cost $0
Next up is a sliding door on the galley. There was nothing to keep it from sliding off. So I added a latch.
Brown Wood Wood stain Watch Hardwood

Cost $2 it was an open box deal.
Next up was the stove.
When I got my boat there was a stainless steel stove in it. I like the stove but the galley surface is super slick and I couldn't get it to stay put so.
Hood Motor vehicle Bumper Wood Gas

Those little clear tabs were great and I can remove them if I need to. Cost $7 there are a lot of those tabs.
Lastly there was the problem with the gas canister. The stove connection is on the right. Which causes the can to sit in the sink at a weird angle. It puts a good bit of strain on the connection tube. My solution was a $10 extention.
Tap Plumbing fixture Sink Bathroom sink Household hardware

Kitchen appliance Gas Machine Electrical wiring Tool

I am able to have my stove next to the companionway, secured yet removable. And I still have access to the sink, fan, and it's all non-permenant.
I'm thinking of making a rack or something to fit on the side of the galley box to use for maps or books or something.
I'm getting my little Mac22 set up pretty nice. I'm trying to get to get the dirty projects out of the way as I'm going to do a deep cleaning before the season starts.
 
#1,619 ·
I posted this on Anarchy but thought some here might find it useful too.

A quick & easy way to make teak (or other woods) finger pulls.

Tire Automotive tire Wood Synthetic rubber Natural material



 
#1,624 ·
I've got me a surprising Low Buck Project. Thanks to my work's generosity, I was able to get a Simrad TP10 auto pilot, a ram extension, tiller bracket, and a new plug for a whopping total of $32.48. That's it. $32.48. I'm still waiting on the bracket and extension but I'm expecting it this week. I plan on installing it this coming weekend. Woo hoo!
 
#1,625 ·
After staring at the prices of swivel shackles at WM for half an hour, I made soft shackles myself to replace the PO’s loops of 1/4” double braid line for the topping lift. Everything is 3/16 dyneema plus the 22 mm Harken mini blocks, the lower with a V jamb, and it easily came in under $100. 3/16” may have been overkill…
of
Cloud Sky Blue Tree Crane
 
#1,634 ·
After staring at the prices of swivel shackles at WM for half an hour, I made soft shackles myself to replace the PO’s loops of 1/4” double braid line for the topping lift. Everything is 3/16 dyneema plus the 22 mm Harken mini blocks, the lower with a V jamb, and it easily came in under $100. 3/16” may have been overkill…
of View attachment 143190
Just saw this! This would make my life much easier. However, probably irrational fears play my mind, with the cam cleat (or whatever) letting go and our heavy boom coming down.
 
#1,626 ·
I'll have to post my photos from my phone, but this was a really simple project and I think it's easy to visualize. First, the need: I have a Hunter 31 and I single hand a lot. I don't like banging off the pilings as I pull out of the slip, and I'm not able to reach the wheel and throttle as easily as in my first boat. If I go forward and hold the bow over to the windward piling, by the time I reach the wheel she's banging off the lee piling.

Solution: rig a quick-release for the bow lines that I can execute from the wheel.

Important criteria: You gotta have something like THIS up front:
Musical instrument accessory Composite material Nickel Metal Fashion accessory


Parts: two 6" dowels about 1/2 - 5/8 in. diameter.
two eyelets that'll screw into the flat ends of the dowels and give good pull strength
two larger eyelets to screw into the pilings on each side of the bow
enough 1/4- 3/8 line to reach from bow to wheel
enough of the same line to reach from the bow to the piling on each side and a couple of feet extra
concrete patching mix from your favorite hardware store
two 20 oz or 1 L plastic beverage bottle
two eyebolts about 4" long, nut is optional

Construction: Cut the tops off the water bottles. Mix up the concrete patch. Fill the bottles with the mix to make nice long rather heavy weights. Insert the eyebolts into the wet mix and let dry.
The object is to get a nice long weight with an eyelet sticking up from the top.
Drill a hole into one end of each dowel and screw in the eyelet. The object is to have an eyelet projecting from one end of each dowel.
Take two lengths of the line, tie a bowline/your favorite knot to the eyelet. Measure the line back to the wheel so that you have plenty of slack to grab onto.
[This is where pics would help, and I'll get them in ASAP]

Screw the larger eyelets into the piling, a foot or two about the dock lines.
Tie one end of each of the other two lines to one of the eyelets sticking up out of the weights.
Run the line up through the eyelet and to the bow on each side. The object is to pull on the line and lift the weights, with the eyelet as a guide.
On the free end of the lines attached to the weights, tie a bowline just a little larger than the diameter of the dock line. The object is to allow the bowline loop to fairly easily slide
along the dock line, but to grab the dock line when the pull comes on from an angle. We'll call this the "binding loop."
Finally (!), on the end of the lines from the weights tie a bowline big enough to slip through the holes in the bow plate fin and also have room for the dowels to fit through.
Make sure the weights are pulled up to just below the piling eyelets before you tie the first bowline.
Trim off any extra line from the lines attached to the weights. The objects is to have the weights fully lifted when the bowline on the far end of the line is at the bow plate.

I think that's it for construction.

To use: Put the dowels with the attached line up the bow and run the lines back to the wheel.
Pass the bowline loop at the end of the line attached to a weight through one of the holes in the vertical fin of the bow plate.
Slide a dowel through the loop so that it keeps the loop from pulling back through.
Pull the bow of the boat as close to the windward piling as you desire.
Pull the dock line through the bowline on the weight line until you've got basically a straight line from the dock line to the binding loop, then along the line from the binding loop
to the hole in the fin of the bow plate.
(This is where you might have to adjust the bowline grabbing the dock line so that it will hold under tension at an angle.)


The final setup should look like this [I'll get pics, I swear]: A line attached to a weight comes up through the eyelet on the piling and down to the bow plate, where its end loop is held in place by
a dowel through the loop to prevent it from pulling back through.
The dock line on that side is pulled though the binding loop until the bow is as close to the piling as you want. The binding of the dock line in the binding loop should keep it from pulling back through when released.

Now comes the act of faith: cast off the bow lines from the cleats. The boat is now secured to the pilings by the dock lines passing through the binding loops.

Return to the wheel, take up the lines running from the dowels to the wheel, and cast off whatever last stern line is holding you down.

Give the dowel-lines a sharp jerk to pull them back through the loops at the end of the weight lines. The weights drop, pulling the bow lines to the piling and out of the way, and you are free to be on your way.

I'll dig out the photos and post them later this evening.
 
#1,627 ·
Decided to refinish the veneer on one of cabin sole boards. Looks like I’ve created another project. I’ll be surprised if I spend a 100 bucks on varnish and brushes, time however, hours.

Step 1 strip varnish with a very light sanding / chemical strip
Step 2 was with oxalis acid solution
Step 3 sand again(lightly)
Step 4 varnish
Step 5 wait
Step 6 scuff sand
Step 7 repeat 4 5 6 until you are satisfied

I used 4 coats of helmsman clear satin urethane. Might be a smidge too glassy though

I also started putting new sound insulation in the engine bay but that’s not low budget
Brown Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain

Amber Wood Floor Flooring Wood stain
 

Attachments

#1,636 ·
Decided to refinish the veneer on one of cabin sole boards. Looks like I’ve created another project. I’ll be surprised if I spend a 100 bucks on varnish and brushes, time however, hours.
I used 4 coats of helmsman clear satin urethane. Might be a smidge too glassy though.
Instead of brushing with a bristle brush, try wiping the varnish on with a soft cloth (i.e. old T-shirts) to get a thinner coat that may not shine as bright. You'll get a much smoother surface to work with when sanding. You can also sand each coat with 220 and then move to 400 grit paper. On the last sanding, try Johnson's paste wax. That may well help bring the gloss down.
 
#1,629 · (Edited)
Anyone price an outboard bracket to store the dinghy motor? Don't bother I can say they are so over priced. I had some HDPE laying around from a scraped boat. A trip to a big box store procured 4 stainless steel U bolts (design change once Neptune claimed his dues) and some SS bolts in the junk box I had gather the material required to fabricate the bracket. First I wanted to insure there was going to be room for the motor so with the hot glue gun and cardboard I made a stand in for the real outboard. Next project is a lifting harness and a canvass cover to protect the motor and HDPE bracket. $24 for the U bolts.
 
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