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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #1  
Old 01-02-2009
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Seacocks

Sorry I lost my original detailed post.
Questions. Blake bronze cone seacocks. How much pitting is ok. How much grease? How tight should the bolts holding the cone in be as this influences ease of turning?
The bolts above are threaded into the body, on each of mine only one nut is present for two bolts. I guess I should find more nuts?
Stuart intake filter seacock - seems probably left open longterm and handle resists tentative blows - action?
Seacocks unlikely to be easily accessible ie exhaust cockpit drains bilge both now and in case of a problem ie empty cockpit locker contort to unnatural position and insert plug. I guess I should inspect and service.
Sorry can't give picture Sailnet says size is 254K or some such but I e-mailed it to myself and it is 59K well within the allowable limit.
Thanks in anticipation I have little knowlege of such things.
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Old 01-02-2009
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Chris—

A photo of the Blake would help... pitting is not good on the cone.

Does the Stuart seacock have any adjustment nuts on it. If so, try turning them to see if that allows you to turn it... if not, then it is probably toast.

BTW, you really need to get an account on a photosharing website, like Welcome to Flickr - Photo Sharing Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket or SmugMug Photo Sharing. Your photos look better here. and then post your photos there and link to them using the IMG tag. I'd highly recommend you read the POST in my signature because it has information like that in it...
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Old 01-02-2009
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Ok I hate those sites - in one minute I supposedly have 7 love notes from people in my city.
The Stuart is a cylinder with a knurled top which undoes to show a screen. Near the bottom of the cylinder is a single large nut opposite the handle. That looks like the only possible source of adjustment if any.
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Old 01-02-2009
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Chris,

I seriously doubt that a good lapping compound will even begin to touch those scores and the pitting. I think it's time to begin looking at new seacocks.
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Old 01-02-2009
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I'd agree with Maine...those are probably toast. Of course, if the seats are in good shape, which I seriously doubt, you could try and just replace the handles and cones...
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
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Old 01-02-2009
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I picked the worst patches but yes there is no way the pitting could be ground out. It is hard to see the seats as clearly but I imagine they would wear similarly.
Does this need to be done now while I am out? Any ideas on cost and time involved in doing 9?
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Old 01-02-2009
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Chris—

Yes, it should be done now.

You didn't post photos of the through-hulls, but if they're connected directly to the seacocks, then you'll probably need to replace them. Maine Sail has an excellent primer on replacing through hulls as well as installing seacocks, both are located HERE.

You can probably do the entire thing yourself in a weekend.
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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Old 01-02-2009
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Doesn't look that bad to me. I'd say a good coating of a heavy grease and a snug fit will extend the life of the cone seacocks many more years. Of course keep an eye on them and make sure your bilge pumping system is in good shape.
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Old 01-02-2009
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take the worse ones to a machine shop, my triton has cone type seacocks that were pitted and scored. I was able to take a light skim cut off the cone itself, then an adjustment cut at the bottom and they were as good as new.
You don't need to make the adjustment cut on the bottom unless the small end of the cone sits flat on something, there's normally room there.

The unworn and tarnished section directly under the handle shows you the room you have, don't take it all, just enough to clean up the cone.

It's the reason they used a cone instead of a cylender or ball on the old seacocks and other valves, they were designed to be repaired when worn instead of replaced.

Ken.

Where you see the shadow of the opening doesn't have to be smooth, it contributes nothing to the sealing.

Last edited by merc2dogs; 01-02-2009 at 02:00 PM.
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I've seen worse. I agree with Dwayne.
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