Deck Core replacement - SailNet Community
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 60 Old 01-07-2009 Thread Starter
I don't discuss my member
 
zz4gta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Chesapeake Bay
Posts: 2,530
Thanks: 0
Thanked 31 Times in 31 Posts
Rep Power: 8
 
Deck Core replacement

I plan to start this task next month on my boat. I'll be using balsa core and wanted to get some opinions on bedding hardware and using a liner as outlined in another post here on sailnet. I just want to make sure that a skim layer of FG is not required on the inside for strength. I plan to do the re-core from the inside leaving the outter decks untouched. (I know, I know).

I'll keep updating this post with pictures and progress. Hopefully I can have the repair done with 100sq ft of balsa, and minimal down time.

Here are the steps I have outlined
1. drop the mast and remove hardware
2. strip insides of anything important, vests, gear, etc.
3. start from the companionway and cut sections of deck out working my up to the bow.
4. plug all hardware holes to keep out rainwater, and allow a week to dry.
5. begin cutting and expoxying new balsa in place, same order as it was removed.
6. epoxy over all exposed balsa to seal it. Let it cure.
7. drill new holes and install hardware.
8. cut and install liner.
9. put the stick up.

WAAAY easier said than done. I'm not looking forward to this.

Merit 25 # 764 "Audrey"
zz4gta is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 60 Old 01-07-2009
Senior Member
 
chucklesR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Pasadena Md - Magothy side
Posts: 5,979
Thanks: 10
Thanked 31 Times in 31 Posts
Rep Power: 10
     
Cored decks, like cored doors get their stiffness from the outside laminate layers, not layer.
You'll want to put at least one layer of FG over the core.

Imagine a door to your home with just the outer face and some cardboard waffles on the back. Imagine how fast it would warp out of true.

Another point, check your epoxy's curing temp's for min/max. Gooey don't work.
chucklesR is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #3 of 60 Old 01-07-2009
Senior Mumble
 
jbondy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 320
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 15
 
How do you intend to hold the balsa in place from underneath while the epoxy cures? I experienced sagging. Some sort of bracing is necessary. As chucklesR said, you absolutely do need the inside layer of fiberglass. You can save the inside skin, grind away any rotten balsa stuck to it and glue it back in place. Then you'd only need to glass the seams. But holding the layers in place will be your biggest challenge. As steated in the earlier threads, the one lesson, main lesson, I painfully learned was: do it from the top. I know, you know. Once the epoxy was applied, I didn't want to stop and grind it all away after I figured out how to brace, so I ended up putting screws from the top into my core to hold it in place after the sagging couldn't be stopped due to insufficient bracing from below. That left me with holes to fill from above anyway. Think it through. Folks have been successful doing this from below, but not me.

Good luck.
jbondy is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #4 of 60 Old 01-07-2009
Senior Member
 
Maine Sail's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Maine Coast
Posts: 5,873
Thanks: 20
Thanked 218 Times in 166 Posts
Rep Power: 16
       
Quote:
Originally Posted by zz4gta View Post
I plan to start this task next month on my boat. I'll be using balsa core and wanted to get some opinions on bedding hardware and using a liner as outlined in another post here on sailnet. I just want to make sure that a skim layer of FG is not required on the inside for strength. I plan to do the re-core from the inside leaving the outter decks untouched. (I know, I know).

I'll keep updating this post with pictures and progress. Hopefully I can have the repair done with 100sq ft of balsa, and minimal down time.

Here are the steps I have outlined
1. drop the mast and remove hardware
2. strip insides of anything important, vests, gear, etc.
3. start from the companionway and cut sections of deck out working my up to the bow.
4. plug all hardware holes to keep out rainwater, and allow a week to dry.
5. begin cutting and expoxying new balsa in place, same order as it was removed.
6. epoxy over all exposed balsa to seal it. Let it cure.
7. drill new holes and install hardware.
8. cut and install liner.
9. put the stick up.

WAAAY easier said than done. I'm not looking forward to this.
You're forgetting a very important part of repair from the bottom GRAVITY! Use vacuum bagging!!! What ever the interior skin was made of lamination wise I should be put back with the same schedule.

I can assure you that without vacuum bagging this job will be harder, and come out with more gravity voids than doing it from above and repainting the decks. You make it sound so easy and I wish you luck!!

______
-Maine Sail / CS-36T


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.




Images In Posts Property of Compass Marine Inc.


Maine Sail is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #5 of 60 Old 01-07-2009
Midwest Puddle Pirate
 
US27inKS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Gardner, KS
Posts: 2,160
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 12
   
I agree with Chuck. The balsa core causes the deck to have structure much like an I-beam. Without the interior fiberglass, you've got nothing.

What has been done with success, but more work initially, is to save the interior fiberglass as a panel. Carefully cut around the area you wish to cut out, and very carefully remove the fiberglass by cutting the core out. Then you can grind off any remaining core material from your panel. Then you can replace the core. To reinstall the panel, wet out the balsa core, the apply thickened epoxy to the panel. Prop the panel in place making sure it has good adhesion all the way across. Then fix the cut lines and you're done.

Or you can do what I did. Hold a 50 x 60 inch piece of dripping wet 18-2 biax over your head for about an hour.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
John USYacht 27 "Cora Lee"
US27inKS is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #6 of 60 Old 01-07-2009
Senior Member
 
Maine Sail's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Maine Coast
Posts: 5,873
Thanks: 20
Thanked 218 Times in 166 Posts
Rep Power: 16
       
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbondy View Post
Folks have been successful doing this from below, but not me.

Good luck.
I believe folks "think" they have been successful. I have had the opportunity on a number of occasions to either dig into this work myself from above or have seen it in the shop and can assure you they were not nearly as successful as they thought they were..

______
-Maine Sail / CS-36T


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.




Images In Posts Property of Compass Marine Inc.


Maine Sail is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #7 of 60 Old 01-07-2009
Midwest Puddle Pirate
 
US27inKS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Gardner, KS
Posts: 2,160
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 12
   
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maine Sail View Post
You're forgetting a very important part of repair from the bottom GRAVITY! Use vacuum bagging!!! What ever the interior skin was made of lamination wise I should be put back with the same schedule.

I can assure you that without vacuum bagging this job will be harder, and come out with more gravity voids than doing it from above and repainting the decks. You make it sound so easy and I wish you luck!!
I tried vacuum bagging mine, with no luck. I couldn't get a good seal on the stupid thing. So I used a piece of light plywood (3/16 if I remember) and braced it in multiple places. Yes it sucked.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
John USYacht 27 "Cora Lee"
US27inKS is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #8 of 60 Old 01-07-2009
Senior Member
 
NOLAsailing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mandeville, LA
Posts: 504
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 9
 
How large an area are you talking about? You mention in the post going from the companionway forward. I can't fathom doing that much core work from underneath.

-Jason

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
NOLAsailing is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #9 of 60 Old 01-07-2009 Thread Starter
I don't discuss my member
 
zz4gta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Chesapeake Bay
Posts: 2,530
Thanks: 0
Thanked 31 Times in 31 Posts
Rep Power: 8
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NOLAsailing View Post
How large an area are you talking about? You mention in the post going from the companionway forward. I can't fathom doing that much core work from underneath.
All of it.

There is no paint on the deck now, just gelcoat and I'd like to keep it that way, the outter shell is in good condition and I really don't want to hack it up if I can avoid it. The inside liner is cracking severly and coming apart, mildewed and rotting.

I guess my other question (which I've asked on a Merit site) was the thickness of the core. It looks to me like 3/8" plywood, I'm assuming I could use 3/8" end grain balsa to replace this correct?

jbondy, I plan to use adjustable "hood props" that some mechanics use. Basically a telescoping pole that can be locked into place. If those don't turn out to be cost effective, then wooden dowels cut to length will have to do.

Merit 25 # 764 "Audrey"
zz4gta is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #10 of 60 Old 01-07-2009
Senior Member
 
tommays's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 4,296
Thanks: 1
Thanked 30 Times in 30 Posts
Rep Power: 7
 
I can see you getting the core in place somewhat BUT i am not seeing the glass work as being that easy

1970 Cal 29 Sea Fever

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

1981 J24 Tangent 2930
Tommays
Northport NY


If a dirty bottom slows you down what do you think it does to your boat
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
tommays is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

By choosing to post the reply above you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.


User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Techniques for Removing Teak Decks Sue & Larry Buying a Boat Articles 0 11-24-2003 07:00 PM
Mounting Deck Hardware Tom Wood Gear and Maintenance Articles 0 06-25-2002 08:00 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome