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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #11  
Old 01-22-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donhaller View Post
For a real newb; what is meant by 2 over 3?
I don't mean to speak for PDP, but I believe he means 3 coats of Cetol followed by 2 coats of Cetol Gloss.

Just to balance out things a bit. I love Cetol. The Cetol Natural (I think it's called) looks just fine to me. None of the orange tint the old stuff had:

My washboards newly Cetol'ed last spring:

before:


after:
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  #12  
Old 01-22-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DwayneSpeer View Post
I for one have a lot of bright work on deck and love it. I use Deks Olje. I originally laid up a six layer finish using foam brushes and every year brightened up with another layer in the Spring. It looked beautiful until last year (after seven years) when it began to lift in a couple of places. I got out the heat gun and took it all off and experimented with an oil finish last summer and had to recoat every month or so and it only looked good for a couple of weeks at a time. I'm going back to Deks Olje this Spring when the weather improves. It goes on easily and looks great.

ps I think Cetol looks bad!
I also have a lot of teak (Tayana 37) and don't want to spend the summers doing brightwork. I've used cetol for the past 10 years or so and last year I got out the old heat gun and scrapper. I've had good luck with the stuff except after a number of years the build up turns to a brown poop color. I've switched to cetol natural and it looks great. Only a maintainence coat once a year thereafter. I'm concerned about the buildup even with the natural and plan on doing a little more sanding this spring rather than just hitting it with a scotch pad like I've done in the past. On the cockpit teak I'm using a semco natural oil and it too is holding up fine. One final note on the cetol is that the gloss clear finish is also available and my thoughts were to maybe use this finish to limit the dark color build up. However speaking with my neighbor here at the marina, I find that the clear gloss finish is what he has been using for the past 4 years and again that awful brown color is on his boat.
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Old 01-22-2009
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Unfortunately I have done a lot of brightwork refinishing in the past. That's why I don't have a wood boat anymore. A couple of great books have been written on the subject by Rebecca J. Wittman

-- brightwork.us --

Personally, if at all possible, I've used a sharp scraper and a heat gun if the refinishing is on a relatively flat surface. You've got to be paying attention not to burn the wood under the old finish. It's the quickest way to take old varnish off. If the finish is still in one piece with no blistering, lightly sand it and refinish with several coats of fresh varnish.
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  #14  
Old 01-22-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lbdavis View Post
I don't mean to speak for PDP, but I believe he means 3 coats of Cetol followed by 2 coats of Cetol Gloss.

Just to balance out things a bit. I love Cetol. The Cetol Natural (I think it's called) looks just fine to me. None of the orange tint the old stuff had:

My washboards newly Cetol'ed last spring:

before:


after:

Your hatch boards look great!
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Old 01-22-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lbdavis View Post
I don't mean to speak for PDP,
No, please do and thank you, I tend to post and run, so I miss questions asked.


BTW: hatch boards look nice
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Old 01-22-2009
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Deks Olje has apparently been discontinued by it's parent company. I guess you will have to think about using Bristol Finish or Honey Teak in the future.
Deks Olje Teak Oil Wood Finish
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  #17  
Old 01-22-2009
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Well dang!!!
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  #18  
Old 01-27-2009
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Buy the book.
The Art of Finishing Wood. The Brightwork Companion. by Rebecca Whitman.
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Old 01-27-2009
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Neophyte Varnisher

The first time we had to do any teak work on our boat, I happened on the a book by Rebecca J. Wittman; " Brightwork; The Art of Finishing Wood" ISBN # 0-877-42-984-7. Besides being a beautiful "coffee table book", and a guide to all finishes for exterior and interior wood, the author's style of writing makes it a good read.

We have exterior teak rails and trim that we use Cetol on, and are very happy with the look and length of time between touch ups/ redoings.

Our interior teak was unfinished, simply oiled. Using Rebecca's suggestion of sanding oil into the wood we now have a "hand rubbed finish" on all our interior teak that rivals the finish on fine furniture. People who visit our boat can't believe it's not varnished. Yearly touch ups are simple, I just wipe the wood down with a very light coat of oil.

My favorite teak oil is Daely's "Seafin" oil, produced by 2 brothers in Seattle.

Good Luck!
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Old 01-27-2009
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Smile No varnish needed

On my catalina30 I removed ALL wood except for the tiller and bowsprit and replaced it with white polyethelene - that's the stuff that's called Starboard, the stuff that those nice perch seats are made of- I bought the basic material at a Plastic wholesaler who cut exactly the the gross pieces I needed, then took them homes and machined them into exact replicas. It takes a special glue for this type of plastic but I reinforced "el" shaped pieces with screws. I replaced all hand holds with the one inch stainless tubing so now my 1978 cat 30 now lookss like a 2008 Cat "300". I now spend the free time sailing. Neil in San Diego
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