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post #11 of 15 Old 01-26-2009
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In the pjoto of the old installation it looks like the muffler is single clamped direectly to a throughull and there appears to be another throughull immediately adjacent without a seacock. I'd correct theses issues on the new install.

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post #12 of 15 Old 01-27-2009 Thread Starter
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I can add more insulation to the pipe if you think it would be needed. water gets injects back into the exhaust right about the muffler. Yes there is a flexiable section of exhaust between manifold and heat exhanger, when un wrapped its a wheaved mess like metal pipe. think we will be go? do you think we will need a water lift muffler or would it not be needed? the second sea **** you see is for the deck and cockpit drains, both Muffler exit and drains are above the water line should the both have seacocks on them. Thanks

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post #13 of 15 Old 01-27-2009
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The old picture shows you inject the water directly above the little black muffler then it goes straight out the bottom...looks sweet to me.

I'd wrap a couple more layers of FG insulation between the muffler and anything that gets hot and call it good.

But that’s the pictures of the old engine.

The new engine looks like it has flexible hose coming off the short riser…that would tell be that the water is injected in that riser and that the exhaust is wet from there on …is that right?

If so this would be a completely different set up then the old pictures which is dry all the way until the muffler.

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post #14 of 15 Old 01-27-2009 Thread Starter
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that is not our motor but one like we are getting, I will take a look at the motor when it gets here. If thats the case does all the metal pipe have to be converted to rubber or can water flow through the existing metal exhaust?

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post #15 of 15 Old 01-28-2009
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Its a fundamental difference in the entire exhaust system.

The basics are to keep the water from getting back into the engine.

The original system looks like it does that well because the water being injected has to get back over that 3ft high dry loop.

Additionally, if you crank the engine for extended periods of time with out it starting (like when you bleed the fuel system) you will not risk flooding the engine.

If you end up with an engine like the new one in the picture, and its water injected elbow off the manifold, it would normally be followed with a water lift/water lock at least 12 inches from the bottom of the engines heat exchanger exhaust opening to the top of the water lift.

I would consider your present exhaust layout as being better…and it may be possible to remove the injection elbow or not have it included (you pay for it) and assemble your original style system.

One thing I would consider is to delete the heat exchanger for the water heater, and replace it with a piece of SS exhaust pipe.
You would normally use the coolant in the engine, not the sea water, to circulate through the water heater.
The new engine may already have an outlet and inlet for this purpose.

I’ll try and attach a drawing that shows two of the most common scenarios…. unfortunately the one you presently have is not show but in my opinion is still the best in you situation.
Attached Thumbnails
79exhaust_davegerr-med 1.jpg  

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