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Old 02-22-2009
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The way I've seen this type of recovery done is to hire a floating crane and tug, they come over and lift the boat upright at high tide, pump it out, then tow it away. Runs about $5,000 for the day, and is usually covered by marine insurance, if the boat is insured. If another storm blows through while the boat is in its current situation, the prognosis would be grim.
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Old 02-22-2009
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after some sleep i have some suggestions

if you can get the rudder off, take it off so you dont damage it if the boat rotates.

next contact your local fire department they have lift and float bags, they might come help and call it training. they also normally have really big pumps. if a road is close enough maybe a pumper truck could pump water out faster than it can get in. most fire departments are looking for reasons to play with the stuff they have but dont use often

Last edited by scottyt; 02-22-2009 at 01:27 PM. Reason: rudder not rubber
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Old 02-22-2009
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I am thinking you need to get the water out. 2 or 3 pumps like the one you have and seal all the openings with plywood, screws and duct seal. Pump like mad while the tide is rising and then a big boat pulling on the bow once she is getting lighter. Man, I hope this turns out well. I would love to help if I wasn't working.

I am rooting for you and SVDS
I sail.
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Old 02-22-2009
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Sorry to hear man, and hope the old girl will be out sailing again this summer. Seriously, you need to seal her off so no more water gets in and get a tug boat to pull you into deeper water. If your insured which I hope you are call them and se if they have any advice. Im sure insurance companies have seen it all and if you have a motor in there you dont want fuel and oil leaking out.

best of luck
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Old 02-23-2009
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we are waiting for the daily update
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Old 02-23-2009
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The starboard chainplate sounds like a non-issue right now.
I like the idea of removing the rudder if possible, and orienting the bow toward the water, if you can keep it up.
You mentioned digging, but you can move a whole lot more earth by jetting. Get yourself a gas pump, attach the discharge hose to a 6' or 8' galvanized 3/4 or 1" pipe. Something you can break up some of the roots you're going to encounter, and get that keel to do the work for you. Find some local guy who's jetting in seawalls, not the big operators, but some small, local, service oriented guy, and he'll rent you everything you need for it. Have an extra pipe on hand for when the keel lays on the one you're working and locks it up.
Caution: get some cheap landscape fabric, or rent some oil booms to keep your silts contained.
Gregg A Granger
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Old 02-24-2009
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Well my internet has been down for the last couple of days, so i haven't been able to post.

Ok first off, this is a low to no budget salvage. So no floating cranes or anything like that. Ive got another plan worked up that i think may work. We were able to turn the boat around a few feet before it got to where it just wouldn't move. Right now, im thinking if i can put stuff inside to displace the water and give some floatation, we may be able to turn it around. Ive also got a few 55 gallon barrels that im going to try lash off to the lower winch and cleats for more floatation. Ive been out gather info and stuff to do this with.

Thats it for now.

WheresTheBrakes, give me a call sometime and i try to explain things a little better.

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1972 Pearson 36 S.V. Distant Star
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Old 02-24-2009
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I don't think its possible to stop the ingress of water. It looks like the lazerette hatch is under water which would be exceedingly difficult to plug underwater. Too bad you can't trust the rig. My first though would have been to used the main halyard coming straight out of the top of the mast (pulling to the stern and slightly down) to pivot the boat. It would give you great leverage. Part of the problem you are having pivoting the boat by pulling from the bow is that the front edge of the keel is going to dig into the mud unless it lays more horizontally.

As the other posters have said I think the priority is to get the bow pointed towards deep water. Once it is in a position where it could right itself start up your pumps through the overhead hatches.
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Old 02-24-2009
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You've gotten a lot of advice from a lot of different people. Some practical and some not so practical given your set of circumstances. My advice is not so much about the method you use, but your approach to solving your dilema. First and formost remember you are the captain, so don't let anyone talk you into doing something unless you are comfortable with it. Secondly, use the assets you have to your advantage. It seems to me that one of your biggest assets is time. While I've never had a boat in your spot, I have had a few 18 wheelers run aground so to speak, their "keel" out of the water when it shouldn't be. My experience with recovery operations is that more damage is done during the recovery than is done in the original incident. Since you're not creating an environmental hazard and you're obviously not hindering navigation, take the time to devise a plan to keep further damage at a minimum. Personally, of the plans I've read here, I lean towards those that float her free rather than than those that pull her out. Use Mother Nature rather than fight her. It just seems that you need to somehow "raft" her into deeper water before righting her. Heck, I once heard of a guy living on an island he created using empty milk jugs and pop bottles so anything is possible. Not that you need more bad things to think about but 55 gallon drums floating in the water may draw attention to your operation that you don't want. So use your time wisely to devise your plan and then act quickly to implement it. Good luck, Captain.
S/V Boccata d'Aria

I'm not sure what Dickens are, but I think they may be important and I sure as hell don't want them scared out of me.......Izzy
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Old 02-24-2009
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i still think a few buckets of pumper putty would stem the flow in to the boat. close the boat up except the roof hatch, seal everything that is under water with plumbers putty which sticks under water . then pump it out. plumbers putty does not harden but is water proof and will clean up easily.

What is Plumber's Putty?

Oatey at Lowe's: 14 oz. Plumber's Putty
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