A/B switch for removing shut from battery circuit - Page 2 - SailNet Community

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  #11  
Old 02-23-2009
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Just put a simple ON-OFF switch in to short out the shunt (effectively bypassing it). OFF is normal. ON shorts out the shunt and allows you to pass whatever amperage the switch/cabling is rated for.

Bill
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  #12  
Old 02-23-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maine Sail View Post
Sorry for being a contradictory view point but I would personally take a different approach. I would spend the money and buy a true battery monitor like the Victron BVM-600 (LINK). This monitor comes standard with a 500 amp shunt for $194.65. The Xantrex Link Lite is also another option.
A main reason why I'll stick with the Nasa BM-1 is I *love* the display. Easy to read from pretty much anywhere in the cabin, and shows voltage, current flow, percentage bar and hours to empty at the same time. All the others I've looked at have tiny displays and need to be cycled though different views to get all the info.

What can I say... I like clear and easy to read instruments ;-)

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By the time you're done buying battery cables, DPDT or DPST, switches or high amp battery switches, and building a by pass for a 100 amp shunt, you could have yourself a beautiful new battery monitor that will give you lots more information and for not a lot more money than a by-pass.

Out with the old and in with the new would be my suggestion. I've yet to meet any boater, though I'm sure they are out there, who's installed a battery monitor and properly calibrated it that regretted it.
I've pretty much decided to take Bene505's advice and keep it simple -- and keep the two circuits separate. I hadn't actually had any problems with the starting battery, but was just used to having an A and B option (moved from two matched flooded start-and-house batteries to a single flooded starting battery and house bank of AGMs). I guess I was just too stuck to adopt a different point of view on the arrangement. Always nice to have one's point of view unstuck ;-)
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  #13  
Old 02-23-2009
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A main reason why I'll stick with the Nasa BM-1 is I *love* the display. Easy to read from pretty much anywhere in the cabin, and shows voltage, current flow, percentage bar and hours to empty at the same time. ...
Oops. You do actually have to push a button to get the time to empty. But it's still a nice display...
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Old 10-11-2009
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on the victron meter does on run the starter and the thruster through the battery monitor?
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Old 10-11-2009
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motion300
If you're asking if the starter current goes through the meter, no it just goes through the shunt. The shunt has to be the first connection of the negative line directly from the battery post.
Patrick
I agree with Maine Sail about the monitor, unless you can replace the shunt with a bigger one which would be the easiest and would allow you to keep the display you like. As long as the shunt you get is the same ratio (50mv/500v, etc.) I see no reason it wouldn't work. Maine Sail?
Brian
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