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post #1 of 9 Old 02-23-2009 Thread Starter
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Thanks Knothead

I sit here surrounded by shreds of double braid cuttings, marker caps, masking tape, and line but holding a reasonable looking eye splice, thanks to Knothead's video. I couldn't have done it with just the printed Samson instructions--I needed to see someone competently and calmly doing this thing that I kept screwing up.

I wish I had video of my 4 or 5 pathetic attempts leading up to the final product. It would be my gift to the community, helping others attempting this to relax knowing that there was someone out there much clumsier, much stupider than they could ever be. But I was inventive in my failures: Doh! Forgot to put the line through the shackle bail before closing the loop! Cut! How did that core come out there? Cut. What's this extra loop? Cut. Ah perfect...if only I had put the line through the shackle bail instead of the shackle. Cut. (I really did do that!)

And I think I still have enough line left on it for it to be my halyard

Thanks again Knot!

Tom K

2000 Beneteau 331
Northern Chesapeake Bay

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post #2 of 9 Old 02-23-2009
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I'm really glad that you found the video useful.
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post #3 of 9 Old 02-23-2009
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Knot,

The videos are great, any chance of you doing a tapered chain to rope splice version. (Yea easy, I know, but mine keep coming out looking like something that grew out of the black lagoon)


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post #4 of 9 Old 02-23-2009
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Originally Posted by T37SOLARE View Post
Knot,

The videos are great, any chance of you doing a tapered chain to rope splice version. (Yea easy, I know, but mine keep coming out looking like something that grew out of the black lagoon)
Good idea. I'll try to get to that this week.
I hope you're talking about the rope chain splice that I'm thinking of. I believe that there are several versions.
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post #5 of 9 Old 02-23-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knothead View Post
Good idea. I'll try to get to that this week.
I hope you're talking about the rope chain splice that I'm thinking of. I believe that there are several versions.

Just looking for one that will go through my GD windlass!


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post #6 of 9 Old 02-24-2009
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There are two commonly used versions of a rope-to-chain splice. One looks like a backsplice and is only connected at the end link. The other looks like a long splice and requires a fair number of seizings for its strength and continues forward along the chain.
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Originally Posted by knothead View Post
Good idea. I'll try to get to that this week.
I hope you're talking about the rope chain splice that I'm thinking of. I believe that there are several versions.

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post #7 of 9 Old 04-25-2009
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Well, better late than never I guess.

This rope to chain splice was made using what I feel is a really crappy line.
I still think that New England make the best three strand.

Because of how loose and soft this line is, I felt that I should cross stitch as well as whip. The second video is just needle work. (and some nice music)

I hope these may be of some value.









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post #8 of 9 Old 04-25-2009
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Originally Posted by knothead View Post

This rope to chain splice was made using what I feel is a really crappy line.
I still think that New England make the best three strand.

>
Great videos knothead. I've used a eye splice(without the metal thimble) on the rope to chain splice thinking that just maybe the rope might be less prone to chafe without the separation of the 3 strands when passing through that last chain length. Just a hunch on my part. Would like to hear your thoughts. Also when looking at the defender web site for splicing services I noticed that they coat the splice with some sort of anti chafe protection. I can't seem to find what that product is.
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You certainly don't want chafe where the line contacts the link. That's why it's important to do a nice tight whipping there. That will make sure that there is no movement.

I think that by separating the three strands and laying them along side each other where they pass through the link is the best way to go in as much as you have more contact between the line and the link. Passing the entire line through the link in the same direction before starting the splice seems to me would be more difficult and bulky. But I haven't tried it.

I have heard of people applying chafe protection the each of the three unlaid strands, but If you whip the splice tightly at that point to prevent movement you really won't have a problem with chafe.

Here's a photo of a splice that I did years ago and the real problem was the rusting of the link. I suppose that because the line doesn't really ever get the salt rinsed out of it and it lives in a damp chain locker really promotes that kind of corrosion. I soaked bee's wax into the line where it passes through the link in the new splice. I will know in a few years if it helps or not.

But you can clearly see that chafe between the link and the line was really not a problem.
The line was severely chafed in a number of places, but that was on the outside where it rubbed on the bottom and the bottom of the boat.

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