Plumbing setup just doesn't seem right

jaschrumpf · #1 (**permalink**) 02-28-2009

Here's a drawing of my plumbing setup in my 1975 Capital Yachts Newport 28. I haven't ever found an actual manual drawing that matches this setup, so I'm thinking a PO must have done some mods to it. I've left out some details to make my (poor) draftsmanship more legible.

The only actual drawing from a Newport owner's manual that comes close has the waste and freshwater inputs reversed from what my boat has. That makes eminently more sense, as you don't pump out waste through your v-berth as my setup currently requires.

The fresh water input connection on my boat is completely unseeable by human eyes. I was able to get my hand on it, but that's all. I don't know how I'd ever replace the fittings if they needed replacing -- maybe by touch.

However, the input line is accessable via an inspection hatch at the forward part of the v-berth. I'm thinking I could cut the line there, reroute the freshwater input over to where the pump-out fitting is (replacing all fittings, natch) and run the current freshwater line over to the holding bladder and make that the pump-out line.

Hopefully the attached drawings will make this clear. Does it seem like a plausible refit?

badsanta · #2 (**permalink**) 02-28-2009

The raw water intake to the head should not be next to the head Thu hull discharge. They should be on opposite sides of the boat to prevent pumping in the waste you are pumping out. From the Wye valve next to the bladder I would extend the discharge to a deck plate so you can pump out at a pump out station. Do you have room for a roto molded tank?

jaschrumpf · #3 (**permalink**) 02-28-2009

I suppose one could make the argument that you wouldn't be pumping in water for the head at the same time as you were pumping the holding out the through hull. Makes sense, I guess.

Your other suggestion is what I was trying to explain in my original post: take the fill line for the fresh tank and move it to the holding tank, and move the input for the fresh water to the fitting under the v-berth cusions.

New fittings all around and new lines should make this possible, I'd think.

How does a pump out work, anyway? I've never even seen it done. Does a line have to snake all the way into the holding tank to pump it out, or does a fitting just snug up to the deck fitting and pump it right out through the lines in the boat?

Faster · #4 (**permalink**) 02-28-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by jaschrumpf

.......How does a pump out work, anyway? I've never even seen it done.

A pump out connection (ideally on deck, of course) is connected to a line that extends into the holding tank (rigid better than bladder!) down to near the bottom of the tank. The pumpouts are really just powerful vacuums that literally suck the waste out.

This is where the bladder becomes a problem... the bladder itself could suck up onto the pumpout fitting and block it unless it's properly designed to prevent this.

Why not add another deck fitting and do away with the inside-the-boat fill/pumpout altogether?

jaschrumpf · #5 (**permalink**) 03-01-2009

It's mainly the difficulty of getting to things. The fresh water fill is inside the anchor well in the bow. I have no access to the underside of the well, so I'd have no way of putting a fitting there. It'd be much easier to modify what's already there, and I don't mind the idea of running a water hose down through the forward hatch to fill that tank.

Deadeye · #6 (**permalink**) 03-01-2009

Just a thought, but I assume your head is mounted on a pedestal ? Building an integral tank might make good use of the (usually) dead space underneath. The tank size you're talking about wouldn't take much space although you would need to drill the hull for a tank vent.

Just don't build baffles into it

sailingdog · #7 (**permalink**) 03-02-2009

switching the two deck fills actually does makes sense, but only if you can route the pumpout hose fairly smoothly. Having the deck pumpout fitting closer to the edge of the boat's deck makes it easier to clean up when the inevitable pumpout disaster happens.

Badsanta—Your comment would make sense if he had a direct overboard discharge for the head, but he doesn't.

jaschrumpf · #8 (**permalink**) 03-02-2009

How easily does the pumpout line route though a y-valve?

Right now the line out from the holding bladder goes to a y-valve which can be switched from pumpout to throughhull. When the y-valve is set to pumpout, can the pumpout line easily get through without hanging up? Is that the normal configuration?

sailingdog · #9 (**permalink**) 03-02-2009

Y-valves are usually okay.. T-valves can have a problem with the 90˚ bend.

KeelHaulin · #10 (**permalink**) 03-02-2009

I see a problem with what you propose. Filling the fresh water tank might be difficult without enough height drop from the fill hole to the tank. If the height is too shallow or if the hose is not sloped downhill enough the water will "back-up" in the fill line not allow the tank to fill.

If you switch the hose for the deck fill you will want to replace the deck fill hose over to the sanitary system type of hose. If you can't get to the deck fitting from below deck you might be able to unscrew the deck fill from above and then pull the hose out to disconnect.