atomic 4 damage? - SailNet Community
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 15 Old 03-04-2009 Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 18
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
 
atomic 4 damage?

I went to check my boat today (it is on the cradle) and was stunned to see about 12 inches of water and ice inside. There has been a lot of snow and rain this year and I haven't been able to check it for a few weeks. The water level was approx 2 inches above the oil fill cap, so I know water will have entered the case. I think it was just below the alternator. It was half way up the coil. The starter was submerged. I am feeling sick about it. How much damage is likely? Is it easy to flush water from the oilcase? What components are relatively watertight?
northstarjim is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 15 Old 03-04-2009
Senior Member
 
bluwateronly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: San Leandro California
Posts: 188
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 7
 
I hope you drained the oil and put some wd40 in the sparkplug holes. Dont let it sit it could freeze up. I am sure others with more experience will give you exact info on what to do but start soon.
bluwateronly is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #3 of 15 Old 03-04-2009
not Sully or Dandelion
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 195
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 7
 
Sorry to here that man. I have an old Atomic 4 myself.

You might be able to get answers at the Moyers web site.

Moyer Marine Atomic 4 Community - Powered by vBulletin
MorganPaul is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #4 of 15 Old 03-04-2009
Telstar 28
 
sailingdog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New England
Posts: 43,290
Thanks: 0
Thanked 14 Times in 12 Posts
Rep Power: 14
         
The real question is did water freeze inside the engine. Water expands about 10% when it freezes and if it did, the damage could be pretty bad.

Sailingdog

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Telstar 28
New England

You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

If you're new to the Sailnet Forums... please read this
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
.

Still—DON'T READ THAT POST AGAIN.
sailingdog is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #5 of 15 Old 03-04-2009
Irrationally Exuberant
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 1,329
Thanks: 9
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Rep Power: 8
 
Man, sorry about that Jim. While you wait for the Atomic 4 experts to weigh in, I would just second what bluwateronly said--definitely drain the oil. You'll see if you've got water in there. I would also pull the plugs and try to test for water in the cylinders, maybe even try to suck out anything in there. The WD40 sounds good.

Did the water get over the air filter?

Tom K

2000 Beneteau 331
Northern Chesapeake Bay

Ambition is a poor excuse for not having enough sense to be lazy ~ Steven Wright
arf145 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #6 of 15 Old 03-04-2009
Tartan 27' owner
 
CalebD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 4,738
Thanks: 4
Thanked 107 Times in 99 Posts
Rep Power: 8
 
The situation sounds bad but do not give up hope.
We had a flood in our cabin 5 years ago that got water in the engine oil. I won't divulge the reason for a the flood while on a mooring but suffice it to say it was salt water and nearly 6" above the cabin sole (floor). This was high enough for some water to get into the dipstick hole. Our engine wasn't completely flooded, plus it was summer so no freezing.
After removing the water from the cabin the engine started right up. Later, we checked the oil and found a milky color. Uh-oh! After a call to Don Moyer (see link previously posted) I went and changed the oil in the engine 3 times and each change came out clearer and clearer. Last oil change I put in Rotella T SAE 30 but for the quick oil changes I used cheaper oil.
Our engine is over 40 years old and is still ticking. I hope you have similar results.

"The cure for anything is salt water~ sweat, tears, or the sea." ~Isak Denesen

Everybody has one:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
CalebD is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #7 of 15 Old 03-05-2009
Senior Member
 
patrickrea's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Toronto
Posts: 407
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 8
 
Where is the boat located?

Patrick Rea

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

1978 30' Hughes Northstar 1000
1964 20' Bertram Moppie
patrickrea is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #8 of 15 Old 03-05-2009
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: chesapeake bay
Posts: 1,942
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 7
 
drain the oil, fill it up including the cylinders with oil. turn it over using either the crank start or a crow bar, just a little per day. after a few rotations drain and fill it with oil and marvel mystery oil. let it sit till spring, but you need to make sure it full to the top.

spring time drain oil put a quart of marvel and normal oil in then start it, let it get to temp, shut it off, drain oil fill, run it for a few days change oil.

that is the directions i got from moyer when i fixed a flooded and rusted solid engine, it took days to get it to go thru a full rotation, once it broke loose it spun fine. once in the water it was drained and refilled ran real smokey for a bit, needed new spark plugs too.

as for the starter, pull it off dunk it in a gallon of denatured alcohol. then take it for a check out. as for the alt they are cheap enough to replace
scottyt is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #9 of 15 Old 03-05-2009
Senior Member
 
tommays's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 4,296
Thanks: 1
Thanked 30 Times in 30 Posts
Rep Power: 7
 
In most any case you want to run the motor ASAP to prevent rusting of the cylinder walls

You have freshwater so it is much better than salwater if there is no freeze damage

The issues i see in the long term are that anything electric will have to be rebuilt as the trapped water will result in failure over the summer


I would check the dip stick to see if there was a lot of water inside, if so pump out the oil and change the filter

I don't know I it as high enough to enter the cylinders BUT in any case you DO NOT want to risk turning over the motor with the spark plugs in until this is know

Be very careful when turning over a motor with water in the cylinders as it will be forced out with a LOT of pressure that can cause personal injury

I have to leave now good luck

1970 Cal 29 Sea Fever

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

1981 J24 Tangent 2930
Tommays
Northport NY


If a dirty bottom slows you down what do you think it does to your boat
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
tommays is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #10 of 15 Old 03-05-2009 Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 18
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
 
Angry

Thanks all,

I'm sure water didn't get high enough to enter the cylinders. I do know it is in the oil though. I pumped all the water I could out of the boat but there is still a large amount of ice in there. I'll have to put a heater in there to melt it. I am in eastern Canada - still cold here. What about the transmission? I assume oil could have entered this oil too? Maybe I'll get a small outboard this year. I wonder if insurance would cover this damage?
northstarjim is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.


User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Pearson 36-2 rub rail damage Paysay Gear & Maintenance 6 11-19-2012 06:35 PM
Atomic Is No Bomb sailnaway Atomic 4 9 10-21-2011 12:43 PM
Previous keel damage sab30 Boat Review and Purchase Forum 11 01-04-2009 11:32 AM
Structural Damage Dan Dickison Buying a Boat Articles 0 06-16-2002 08:00 PM
Atomic 4 Woes Mark Matthews Gear and Maintenance Articles 0 10-03-2001 08:00 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome