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post #1 of 10 Old 03-15-2009 Thread Starter
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Bedding - Polysulfide Recommendation?

Hey everyone. I'm getting ready to rebed my chainplates. I've read that Polysulfide is the right stuff for this. The two options I run into are LifeCaulk and 3M 101. Is one of these options better than the other? Is there something else I should consider?

I would like a good seal, but also want to be able to remove and rebed these chainplates when necessary.
Thanks!
-J

1984 Sabre 34 Mk I
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post #2 of 10 Old 03-15-2009
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Just do it, you will get good results with either. Caulking has more to do with prep and technique than it does with the compound used.

For instance, the PO of my last boat smeared silicone all over everything, looked like ****, and did not help deck leaks at all.

The hardware bedded on my 1968 islander was done correctly, and it still doesn't leak. This was with 1968 caulk technology, so you probably don't have a thing to worry about!
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post #3 of 10 Old 03-15-2009
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Polysulphide is definitely the right sealant choice. Of the two, go with 3M 101. I think it's an excellent product. The LifeCalk will do the job, but has two major defects. One, it's spelled "LifeCalk;" if you can't spell it, you probably shouldn't manufacture and market it. Also, and more importantly, it will very rapidly turn yellow/brown (within a couple of months) and it's unsightly enough to be a problem.

-Jason

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Thanks tager, I'm definitely going to do it. And I think either product will work OK. Basically, I'm just trying to find out if one is preferred over the other for any reasons such as UV resistance, longer lasting, easier to work with, discolorations--anything like that. The difference in price isn't enough to worry about in small quantities I need.
-J

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Quote:
Originally Posted by NOLAsailing View Post
Polysulphide is definitely the right sealant choice. Of the two, go with 3M 101. I think it's an excellent product. The LifeCalk will do the job, but has two major defects. One, it's spelled "LifeCalk;" if you can't spell it, you probably shouldn't manufacture and market it. Also, and more importantly, it will very rapidly turn yellow/brown (within a couple of months) and it's unsightly enough to be a problem.
Ha ha--good point! And the color thing is definitely good to know. Would prefer it not turn yellow/brown, so 101 might be better if even for that. Plus, if 3M is good stuff, that's fine with me. I've been satisfied with other 3M products in the past (non-marine). Thanks NOLAsailing.

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post #6 of 10 Old 03-15-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tager View Post
Just do it, you will get good results with either. Caulking has more to do with prep and technique than it does with the compound used.

For instance, the PO of my last boat smeared silicone all over everything, looked like ****, and did not help deck leaks at all.

The hardware bedded on my 1968 islander was done correctly, and it still doesn't leak. This was with 1968 caulk technology, so you probably don't have a thing to worry about!
Not so, I'm afraid. There are three major types of sealant: silicone, polyurethane, and polysulphides.

Polysulphides are great for general sealant projects.

Polyurethane is PRIMARILY an adhesive. 3M 4200 and 5200 are the standards. Great for their intended purpose, but unless you are looking for an ADHESIVE, do not use it.

Silicone is garbage. It is unreliable and, more importantly, leaves behind a chemical residue. This is a major issue if you ever need to paint the boat. Silicone has no place on a boat. Ever. There's always a better choice.

A couple others:

BoatLife LifeSeal - a silicone/polysulphide hybrid. It's great stuff and appropriate for plastics. Pure polsulphide can eat plastic.

Butyl Caulk or Tape - also good stuff. It remains pliable for a very, very long time and is great for portlights. I've used frequently for this, though when I recently replaced my plexi ports, I went with LifeSeal and was very pleased. One negative about Butyl Caulk is that it is messy.

-Jason

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Ha ha--good point! And the color thing is definitely good to know. Would prefer it not turn yellow/brown, so 101 might be better if even for that. Plus, if 3M is good stuff, that's fine with me. I've been satisfied with other 3M products in the past (non-marine). Thanks NOLAsailing.
Glad I could help and good luck with the project.

Awesome boat, by the way.

-Jason

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Glad I could help and good luck with the project.

Awesome boat, by the way.
Thanks! We're getting very anxious for Spring. We still haven't sailed her! I have a feeling that it will come up more quickly than we expect--so many projects to get ready...

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Thanks! We're getting very anxious for Spring. We still haven't sailed her! I have a feeling that it will come up more quickly than we expect--so many projects to get ready...
Josrulz,

You can say that again. The winter has seemed so long, but now that it is almost over and we have many projects to finish up...
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post #10 of 10 Old 03-16-2009
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I'd use butyl tape if the chainplates have a cover that goes over the slot... if not, then use the polysulfide.

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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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