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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #11  
Old 03-19-2009
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Here's the results of a search on Sailnet for headliners... I remember a thread with great pictures, but can't seem to find it here - but anyway it's food for thought..

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/search...d=437554&pp=25
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  #12  
Old 03-19-2009
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I would recommend replacing the overhead with panels attached to furring strips that are epoxied to the hull.
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  #13  
Old 03-19-2009
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Tough to tell from the pictures what the set up is...but in the 'for what it's worth' category. When I replaced the portlights in my 72 NorthStar, I bedded the 1/2" plexiglass in the cutout hole that it sits in without the frame. I made sure with 3m 4200, that they were solid and water tight without any assistance of the 2-piece frame that trimmed and held them in place. Then I set the frames in place with 3m 4000 - more for cosmetic purposes that strength. This gave me the confidence that messing with bedding around the frame fasteners would have minimal effect on the strength and water-tightness of the plexiglass.

Sorry to blab if you don't have a similar set up.

Good luck.
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  #14  
Old 03-19-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Islander30Bahama View Post
The head liner I am building will be a couple of removable panels in the main overhaed. I will build the same style to cover the underside of the deck by the settees. I should be starting on it here in the next few weeks after I replace the bulkheads I have taken out. The PO used different colored stains or teak oil in the cabin so I am stripping everything and going to varnish with an epifannes satin.
Along the hull I have seen some bahama 30s with teak slats that looked really nice. Shouldn't be to hard to clean paint install carpet then the slats over the carpet.
Carpet? Is that to keep it from stressing? Or is that another word for the padding/insulation in there. I was thinking of some kind of slats as well but the angle and the curves seems like it would be beyond my skills. It would really look good after it was done though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Islander30Bahama View Post
The windows I am going to install wont have that dumb molding ring. When my plastic guy cuts my new windows I am going to have him cut them an inch bigger all the way around. This is going to make rebedding way easier down the road like SD suggested. The countersunk machine screws will be every couple inches and should give the boat a more modern look. When I talked to Mark at Marks Plastics he quoted me around 225 per window a couple months ago.
An inch bigger? Are you getting a different type of window or are you going to cut the hole bigger? I was considering glassing in the holes and cutting new ones for the oval style ports but it would change the look of the boat too much I think to be any usable idea and would cost just as much since you need more of the smaller windows.
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  #15  
Old 03-20-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artbyjody View Post
You'll have to re-bed the chainplates - it is about a half day job. Make sure that when you remove the shrouds that they are secured to a line led to winch to help assist the mast from not bending to the opposite side (trust me you have to do this).
..
Are you talking about rebedding the chain plates with the mast still up. i have been wanting to try and do this but am not sure if the halyards will hold the mast steady for the 5 or 6 hours it would need to. What if i did one side at a time? Any comments or suggestions folks
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  #16  
Old 03-20-2009
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A tensioned halyard attached to the rail should be fine. The loads that hold the mast vertical are minimal; it's when the boat heels while sailing that the shrouds are under strain. Just do your work on a day when it's not blowing 30 kts in the marina and you will be OK. Do one chainplate at a time; don't pull all of them and expect the mast to remain properly tuned (or up).
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Old 03-20-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huguley3 View Post
I was thinking that too but there are the same seams on the other windows.
My boat has the same type of portlight; what appears to be a seam is an edge that is formed where the seam is located on the mold; not a glue joint. I'll take another look at mine; but I'm pretty sure that there is no glue between the frame and the lexan window.

Lexan is about 4x stronger than plexi; so for safety you should use UV stableized lexan for replacement. In addition since the plastic frame design is somewhat weak; storm shutters attached outside of the windows would also be a good idea if you are taking the boat cruising.
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  #18  
Old 03-20-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KeelHaulin View Post
A tensioned halyard attached to the rail should be fine. The loads that hold the mast vertical are minimal; it's when the boat heels while sailing that the shrouds are under strain. Just do your work on a day when it's not blowing 30 kts in the marina and you will be OK. Do one chainplate at a time; don't pull all of them and expect the mast to remain properly tuned (or up).
i have been looking at this on my boat and I am not too worried about it assuming I can get a calm day without powerboaters creating big wakes I don't think I will have too much trouble with the shrouds. On my boat the chainplates are attached on either side of the bulkhead with the same bolts so I can't really do one at a time. I am going to try and figure something out with 2 winches but baring that I am thinking the shroud that goes to the masthead is the more important one so will make sure that one is well secured. Is that reasoning correct?

As to the offending window I think I will take it apart and see if I can reseal it as is and then start planning the larger project of replacing the windows and the headliner. I kind of wanted to start the headliner in the V as that is in worse shape but I guess you have to make lemonade when you get the chance...
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  #19  
Old 03-24-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huguley3 View Post
Carpet? Is that to keep it from stressing? Or is that another word for the padding/insulation in there. I was thinking of some kind of slats as well but the angle and the curves seems like it would be beyond my skills. It would really look good after it was done though.

The carpet will be a tan in color with closed cell foam behind it for insulation. The tan color is to help make the interior feel warmer and lighter. Using teak slats that are about 1/8 in thick will bend to the contour of the hull. Then I just need to mark the slats right so that the butt nicely at the ends.

An inch bigger? Are you getting a different type of window or are you going to cut the hole bigger? I was considering glassing in the holes and cutting new ones for the oval style ports but it would change the look of the boat too much I think to be any usable idea and would cost just as much since you need more of the smaller windows.
With the windows being an inch bigger all the way around it will make it so that my holes in the windows aren't right be the edge and give me a little more surface area to put my sealant to ensure a good seal between the window and the cabin. When the sealant cures I will carefully go around the windows with a utility knife cut the excess off. Then I will lay a bead of sealant all the way around the edge of the windows to give it a little more water tightness and prevent my clumsy a$$ from gettin something caught in the window edge and causing damage.

Hope this helps. I sent you a PM about removing your windows.

Jeff
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  #20  
Old 03-25-2009
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OP, here is another option for your leaking windows. I am probably going to try this, or something very similar, in the coming few weeks. My port window leaks like a sieve. I guess thats what the guy who sold me the boat meant when he told me there were no leaks at all. To be fair, i never asked if there were any waterfalls!

Anyhow, this looks like an interesting project:

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-m...ted-ports.html
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