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There are several places on BR where we use teak pads. In some cases it's to raise the level of the hardware (e.g. blocks used with my Aries need to be an inch or so above the level of the deck to feed properly), while in others the pad is used to change the angle of the hardware relative to the deck (e.g. turning blocks) (see the photo below), or to accomodate a curvature in the deck (e.g. the base of the windlass is flat while the deck slopes away slightly on either side of the center line). It you don't need pads for one of the purposes above, they probably aren't needed, but probably wouldn't do any harm either.
I don't "maintain" the teak pads. I let them weather and replace them every 8-10 years. Using teak pads doesn't require putting additional holes in the deck (no "point of future leaks" as mentioned in the post above) as the fittings holding the hardware in place also secure the pads to the deck. I bed the teak pads with 5200 -- no leaks, but my decks are steel and I don't worry about the difficulty of removing the pad. I'm not going to crack any gel coat. On a fibreglass boat it's probably better to use something with less adhesive properties.
One point -- large pads (?? say anything greater than 6" on a side ??) should be constructed by laminating two layers of teak with the grain of each piece at 90 deg to the other. That way you won't have the pad splitting as it ages.
Last edited by billyruffn; 03-21-2009 at 12:03 AM.