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post #11 of 23 Old 03-24-2009
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Nice

She looks in GREAT shape. If its all that good, I might be inclined to skip the compound until you have more time, just wash and wax as you originally proposed. And use the time to do other projects.
Correct, I applied with the buffer, and removed by hand (partly because my hands were sore from gripping the buffer for so long). and it came off very easily and completely. Probably not the recommended method, but seemed a good idea at the time and I have always had better results removing/polishing by hand (cheap buffer works better for applying than removing). No wax at all in the 3M compound I use so it comes right off easily with no residual unlike a cleaner.
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post #12 of 23 Old 03-24-2009 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mgmhead View Post
Be cautious of non-orbital high-speed buffers. Unless you know what you are doing, and are very careful with the tool, you run the risk of "burning" the finish.
I'm planning to do this work without a buffer. I've never used one, so I think it would be best if I skip it this time, and try to work with products that are reasonably easy to hand apply and remove.


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She looks in GREAT shape. If its all that good, I might be inclined to skip the compound until you have more time, just wash and wax as you originally proposed.
Thanks Brucerobs2. We might still at least polish or do a light compound step, but it would be nice to have more time on other projects!

1984 Sabre 34 Mk I
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post #13 of 23 Old 03-24-2009
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Originally Posted by josrulz View Post
I'm planning to do this work without a buffer. I've never used one, so I think it would be best if I skip it this time, and try to work with products that are reasonably easy to hand apply and remove.
Then you should stick to wax only. You can not effectively polish or compound gelcoat by hand. You will require shoulder surgery if you even attempt it.

My advice would be to hand wash the hull with Black Streak remover and micro fiber rags then wash with an acid cleaner like On & Off Gel then rinse, dry and apply the Collinite.

Contrary to lots of misinformation about applying a true carnuba based wax it should NOT be done with a buffer or machine and should be done by hand and removed by hand with microfiber rags.




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Originally Posted by josrulz View Post
Thanks Brucerobs2. We might still at least polish or do a light compound step, but it would be nice to have more time on other projects!
Again without the proper tools just stick with a proper cleaning then the wax.. Black Streak remover, done by hand, followed by On/Off Gel (you can use a car wash brush if you want to) is an amazing combo..

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post #14 of 23 Old 03-24-2009
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Ha Ha

In reading MaineSails response, I just realized I said that I used Easy Off to clean my hull. Obviously I didnt use an oven cleaner (although stranger things have likely been used) but the On & Off Gel Hull cleaner he mentioned. One word of advice, it works great, but protect your skin/eyes etc as its strong stuff, and burns on contact.

Good luck. Your new boat is high on my "next boat" list. Very nice. Maybe we'll see you on the Bay when you get here.
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post #15 of 23 Old 03-24-2009 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maine Sail View Post
...without the proper tools just stick with a proper cleaning then the wax.. Black Streak remover, done by hand, followed by On/Off Gel (you can use a car wash brush if you want to) is an amazing combo..
Thanks Maine Sail. Sounds like a good recommendation--make sure the hull is clean, then protect it.

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Originally Posted by Brucerobs2 View Post
In reading MaineSails response, I just realized I said that I used Easy Off to clean my hull. Obviously I didnt use an oven cleaner (although stranger things have likely been used) but the On & Off Gel Hull cleaner he mentioned. One word of advice, it works great, but protect your skin/eyes etc as its strong stuff, and burns on contact.

Good luck. Your new boat is high on my "next boat" list. Very nice. Maybe we'll see you on the Bay when you get here.
I was wondering about the "Easy Off", since that tends to yellow the gelcoat--I know, because we tried to use it to remove the old painted boat name. It did NOT work for us (removed just a little paint, not much), so any recommendations on removing the old painted boat name are also welcome.

Hope to see you on the Bay this summer--what boat do you have now?
-J

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post #16 of 23 Old 03-24-2009
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Practical Sailor just did an article on paste waxes. Check out the latest issue to see what their favorites are.
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post #17 of 23 Old 03-24-2009
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I have an older Sabre. Every third year I give it the treatment and the hull still looks good after 32 years. 1. Wash the boat with "Roll Off" Cleaner. Use a very light grit scrubby to get off any oxidation or marks. 2. Wipe hull down with acetone to remove any residual wax. 3. Use a high speed buffer and polisher to apply 3M Marine High Gloss Gelcoat Compound. You brush this stuff on an let it dry. The high speed buffer blows it off as it cuts the oxidation off. 4. Hand apply either Collinite or 3M UP Paste wax. If you are really crazy, you can use 3M Finesse It after step 3. I also clean the rub rail with acetone as I go along.

Some tricks I've learned: Have plenty of rags. Change out rags frequently when hand waxing the hull. Use one of those folding ladders that folds to a scaffold. It makes the job go a lot easier. 1/2 day to wash and clean boat. 1/2 day to compound it. 1/2 day to wax it. Best done with 2 people.
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post #18 of 23 Old 03-24-2009 Thread Starter
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Practical Sailor just did an article on paste waxes. Check out the latest issue to see what their favorites are.
Thanks painkiller. I have the issue. They like Collinite 885, though they seem to think you can't apply/remove by hand. Maine Sail's been pretty adamant that it's easy to do by hand if you use a water spritzer too. I think they also liked a Meguiar's wax, but it was a silcone/polymer thing--and right now, I'm thinking that's not the way we want to go.

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post #19 of 23 Old 03-25-2009
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J,

No idea on the painted letters as Ive only removed vinyl but seems a common enough issue that a quick search should be fruitful.

I have a '80 Hunter 27 (Cherubini design) that we keep at the mouth of the Patapsco. A good boat in great shape. But, There is a blue Sabre 34 in our boatyard that I really like...
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post #20 of 23 Old 03-25-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josrulz View Post
Thanks painkiller. I have the issue. They like Collinite 885, though they seem to think you can't apply/remove by hand. Maine Sail's been pretty adamant that it's easy to do by hand if you use a water spritzer too. I think they also liked a Meguiar's wax, but it was a silcone/polymer thing--and right now, I'm thinking that's not the way we want to go.

Sorry but Practical Sailor really has no clue what they are doing. This stuff is easy on, easy off if you do it the right way and they did not.. You should never let it fully dry and it should be put on with a damp foam or terry applicator pad or by bare fingers and a light misting of the hull or pad with water. Do a 2' - 3' swath from toe rail to waterline at a time and move to the next DO NOT let it fully dry on the hull and use MICROFIBER RAGS for removal NOT terrycloth. Oh and do not apply or remove wax with a machine this is best done by hand..

From the post I made last night:

Tips for applying the wax:

3) Do I apply the wax by hand? Yes! DO NOT apply or remove the wax phase with the buffer! I use the 4-inch round Meguiars foam applicators you can buy at an auto parts store and a spray/mist bottle of water, like you use for ironing. The spray bottle is the secret trick for applying a true Carnuba wax. Simply mist the hull and liberally apply the wax. Wait for it to haze over to about 80-90% of dry and buff by hand with a Micro Fiber rag. Do not use terry cloth! Once you use a Micro Fiber detailing cloth for waxing you'll wonder how you ever survived without one! The spray of water some how helps it attach and buff out to a harder, shinier easier to wipe off finish. It's sort of like when you get your shoes polished and the guy hits them with a mist bottle and then buffs the shine up. This trick does not work with most of the polymer/Carnuba blends like the 3M paste but it's like gold with the Collinite Carnuba as well as Tre-Wax. Another trick is not to wax a large area! Do a two to three foot wide swath from toe rail to waterline marking where your are waxing at the toe rail with a piece of blue tape. Also leave a little residue on the leading edge so you'll know exactly where to start. You'll wipe this leading edge when finished with the next swath leaving another leading edge to go off of.

Over the years I have experimented at length with using my buffer to remove the wax but I find the frictional heat is bad for it and it does not shine as well or last as long. Buffing it off by hand gives it a harder shell because it's cooler and does not re-melt the curing wax with teh friction of a buffer. Have plenty of fresh Micro Fiber rags for the wipe off! On my 36 footer I use only four Micro's where it used to take about a dozen terry cloth rags. I buy my Micro Fiber rags at Sam's Club or Wal*Mart. I used to buy them from Griot’s Garage when they were the only ones who had them and they were HUGE money! Try and find the best quality Micro*Fiber you can it WILL make a difference. Sometimes the quality of the Sam's Club Micro's is poor so I go to Wally World or an auto-parts store.

On concourse quality show cars pure carnuba is applied with bare, clean fingers & a mist of water and then removed with microfiber rags.

______
-Maine Sail / CS-36T


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Last edited by Maine Sail; 03-25-2009 at 07:28 AM.
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