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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #21  
Old 03-25-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maine Sail View Post
Sorry but Practical Sailor really has no clue what they are doing. This stuff is easy on, easy off if you do it the right way and they did not.. You should never let it fully dry and it should be put on with a damp foam or terry applicator pad or by bare fingers and a light misting of the hull or pad with water. Do a 2' - 3' swath from toe rail to waterline at a time and move to the next DO NOT let it fully dry on the hull and use MICROFIBER RAGS for removal NOT terrycloth. Oh and do not apply or remove wax with a machine this is best done by hand..

From the post I made last night:

Tips for applying the wax:

3) Do I apply the wax by hand? Yes! DO NOT apply or remove the wax phase with the buffer! I use the 4-inch round Meguiars foam applicators you can buy at an auto parts store and a spray/mist bottle of water, like you use for ironing. The spray bottle is the secret trick for applying a true Carnuba wax. Simply mist the hull and liberally apply the wax. Wait for it to haze over to about 80-90% of dry and buff by hand with a Micro Fiber rag. Do not use terry cloth! Once you use a Micro Fiber detailing cloth for waxing you'll wonder how you ever survived without one! The spray of water some how helps it attach and buff out to a harder, shinier easier to wipe off finish. It's sort of like when you get your shoes polished and the guy hits them with a mist bottle and then buffs the shine up. This trick does not work with most of the polymer/Carnuba blends like the 3M paste but it's like gold with the Collinite Carnuba as well as Tre-Wax. Another trick is not to wax a large area! Do a two to three foot wide swath from toe rail to waterline marking where your are waxing at the toe rail with a piece of blue tape. Also leave a little residue on the leading edge so you'll know exactly where to start. You'll wipe this leading edge when finished with the next swath leaving another leading edge to go off of.

Over the years I have experimented at length with using my buffer to remove the wax but I find the frictional heat is bad for it and it does not shine as well or last as long. Buffing it off by hand gives it a harder shell because it's cooler and does not re-melt the curing wax with teh friction of a buffer. Have plenty of fresh Micro Fiber rags for the wipe off! On my 36 footer I use only four Micro's where it used to take about a dozen terry cloth rags. I buy my Micro Fiber rags at Sam's Club or Wal*Mart. I used to buy them from Griot’s Garage when they were the only ones who had them and they were HUGE money! Try and find the best quality Micro*Fiber you can it WILL make a difference. Sometimes the quality of the Sam's Club Micro's is poor so I go to Wally World or an auto-parts store.

On concourse quality show cars pure carnuba is applied with bare, clean fingers & a mist of water and then removed with microfiber rags.

I tried following Maine's advice but managed to bugger the job and will have to start over. I cleaned the boat with On & Off which worked great and is a product I will use and recommend for the rest of my boat owning days. I then wet sanded a couple of spots where I had some fender rash and they cleaned up nicely.

Since the hull looked pretty good at that point, I moved on to the Finesse- it stage, and this is were things went wrong for me. I could not get a good shine and the hull was kinda splotchy looking. In hopes that it would even out with a coat of wax, I hand applied a coat of Collinite. The results were not what I was going for. Afterwards when I had web access I found that I was not using the correct type pad. I only got one side of the boat waxed, so I'm going to drop back and wash that side with On & Off again and start over with the buffing using the foam 3M pad. I also plan to use a spray bottle of water and have my helper come behind me to remove the product left behind. Reading the directions on the bottle one would conclude that if you were buffing properly, there would be no need to wipe up behind but that does not seem to be the case. Hopefully, I can manage to achive a professional looking shine if I re-buff with the right pad and immediately wipe up the product as I go.

edited to add that I didn't find the Collinite particularly hard to apply or remove using the Mequirs pads and Costco microfiber towels. Getting the buffing technique sorted is my challenge.
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Last edited by PalmettoSailor; 03-25-2009 at 09:44 AM.
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  #22  
Old 03-25-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by midlifesailor View Post
Since the hull looked pretty good at that point, I moved on to the Finesse- it stage, and this is were things went wrong for me.
Finesse It II is a micro swirl remover & polish it does not compound or remove any level of oxidation well at all.

The hull should be glossy already from the compound phase. Finesse It II just removes swirls and adds a deeper shine. You can't effectively go from wet sanding to Finesse It. Unless your hull looked like the picture below you were not ready for Finesse it..
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  #23  
Old 05-06-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maine Sail View Post
Then you should stick to wax only. You can not effectively polish or compound gelcoat by hand. You will require shoulder surgery if you even attempt it.

My advice would be to hand wash the hull with Black Streak remover and micro fiber rags then wash with an acid cleaner like On & Off Gel then rinse, dry and apply the Collinite.
Would you recommend this wash then wax with Collinite over using a one-step compound/wax product like Meguires One-Step for someone with only a day or so to get it done or maybe in off-years? Which will yield better results?

Todd
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