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  #101  
Old 10-04-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedTide View Post
Just read your beautiful explanation, and am gearing up to use this process. As a beginner, I wanted to know when the rags are used. Are you saying to remove the compound, polish, and wax with the microfiber rags or just the wax? If so, how do you remove compound or wax before proceeding to next step? Thanks so much.
As with car detailing,The cutting compound is usually wa=ter based.When you cutthe paint,the cutters dry to a powder.the more you work it the finer it cuts and the finer the dust generated(compound)I just wipe it of with rag,or just wash it.Then,when dry i polish/wax.Cutting compound is like self regulation sandpaper.In stead of going for progressively finer sandpaper the cutters breaks down with the friction becoming finer.Ends looking/feeling like calc.Mind you.if you want mirror finish with no swirls(from buff) use a swirl remover,its just a very fine grade compound(usually in liquid form.) again just wipe off.
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  #102  
Old 10-04-2011
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Removing Compound/Polish

Thanks for the reply. I'm hoping to see a reply from Mainsail also as I am still not completely clear on this subject. Does the compound need to be removed with a microfiber rag before polishing or does it basically dissipate? Does the polish stay on as is (leaving a polished surface) or does it have to be removed/buffed with a rag? I saw your comment about swirls.
Thanks. I know that this may sound like crazy questions, but I have never done this process.
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  #103  
Old 10-05-2011
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The compound(cutters) ends up like talc,(light white and dry)You can wash iT off. i just dry rag it.Its not that important.Once you have most of it off,you them apply polish of choice,(polymer,wax etc)apply wax as you would on car then wipe it off with a clean soft cloth,Toweling or microfibre.The only real difference between doing a boat and car is that gelcoat is a lot harder than auto paint.Some people like to use a lambswool pad on slow buff to remove polish and buff it to full shine.The hardest part is in the compounding.
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  #104  
Old 10-31-2011
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This article is extremely informative....thank you!

Is it necessary to use special pads for compounding and polishing if I am doing these tasks by hand? I will use a buffer for the hull, but I'm currently doing the decks by hand. Thanks in advance.
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  #105  
Old 10-31-2011
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Cutting pads come in many different grades.Generally,lambs wool is the coursest(?)Then there are different degrees in foam.I'd stick to a wool pad for a boat.Cutting by hand? argh! been there,done that.NO MORE! very hard work.In tight places on deck ,,,yeah i'd have to go by hand,My disc is 7" diametre,you can get 4".Apply compounding cream to hull."smear" with pad.Work a small area at the time,work it till you get a good shine and cutters turn to fine powder.move on to new area.keep going till all hull finished. wipe off with a clean rag.Apply polish of choice.Its not rocket science.Lot easier than a car.
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  #106  
Old 10-31-2011
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Helliconia54,

Thank you for the reply. The vast majority of our decks (Beneteau 42CC) are non-skid. I'm hoping the work on the smooth gelcoat portion won't be too hard. We will definitely use a buffer on the hull when we get to that.

Just started the re-conditioning process today. We only did one small section of non-skid, but it turned out great! Rinsed, boat soap, FSR, Woody Wax, dried.....I still can't believe how white it is. Here in Hawaii, red dirt is our constant battle.

I'll get some wool pads for the rubbing compound for the smooth parts. Thank you for the advice.
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  #107  
Old 02-14-2012
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Great Post - but, Questions

Thanks for such a fine post.

Questions:

I have a small (15') Montgomery in very good shape (no chalking, etc.), so I intend to ramp up to do this exercise beginning with the 3M Finesse-It step, followed by 2 Collinite #885 wax coats.

However, I only own an old B&D #9531 polisher. It has only two speeds (2100 & 6600). I have also heard horror stories of novices (that's me!) burning their finish with the rotary polishers (like the Makita).

So, would a random-orbital unit work for a novice like me? I love everything I see on the Makita 9227C, but the price and my fears give me pause.

Any suggestions, recommendations are highly welcomed and appreciated.

Fr. Jeff+
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  #108  
Old 02-14-2012
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As a novice, I followed MS's instructions to the letter. Bought an appropriate DeWalt grinder/polisher, so I'd have the proper speed. Prior to doing a 31 foot boat that badly needed it, ALL my previous attempts at bringing a shine to any of my old boats failed miserably.

I started with wet sanding, followed by 3m compound, followed by Finesse It. Ended up with topsides that LOOKED LIKE NEW. And I'd never used anything but a random orbital polisher before. I had no problems using a proper grinder polisher.

Bottom line: Don't be cuttin' corners. You wanna get done and wonder why it doesn't look right?

By the way, I don't envy you polishing your faux-lapstrake topsides, but at least you're only dealing with 15 feet. Another bonus for you is that everything you need to polish can be done with you standing on terra firma. A 31 with a fixed keel puts you up high on a big stepladder. All in all, your job will be a piece of cake. p.s......I wonder if you'd be better off using 4" pads on your lapstrake planks. Seems like much of a 7" would be just slinging your expensive compound into the air.
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  #109  
Old 02-14-2012
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Thanks - Good Advice

I believe you are right. I'll bite the bullet and get myself a new Makita or DeWalt and have no excuses.
I was giving thought to the lapstrake and I like the idea of the smaller wheel/pads.

Yup, we'll do the whole thing from the floor while she's on the trailer. No bottom paint either, so I'll be laying on my back for most of that part!

My gratitude!
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  #110  
Old 02-14-2012
Fr. Jeff
 
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Another Question

Siamese or any other viewer,

With my hull having the faux 4" lapstrake moulded in the fiberglass, I will only be able to run the Makita with horizontal movements. Vertical pattern would be across the lapstrake. I will also have to use smaller pads (4" +/-).

Will this work, or will it leave unsightly marks by only moving back and forth horizontally?

Thanks......
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