Tips For Compound, Polish & Wax - Page 12 - SailNet Community
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post #111 of 257 Old 02-14-2012
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I've never done a lapstraker, but I'm not seeing a problem. If there was to be any unevenness, I'd think it might occur at some of the edges of your "planks", but that's not to say I'd anticipate any problems. I'm thinkin' you're going to have one shiny boat.

Start doing a few pushups now if you're going to be working on your back. Standing on a stepladder and holding up a big grinder in front of you for hours is tiring. Holding it straight up is bound to be even more fun. I could see myself skimping a little below the waterline....heck, the fish don't care.

If you could flip the boat....woo hoo.

Hey....I just reread your post, and noticed that you're starting with the Finesse-it. If your gel coat is currently close to fresh out of the mold shiny, that's a good way to go. If it's getting a little dull and oxidized, definitely do the compounding. I used the 3M on mine, and it was fine, but I think next time I'm going with the Presta. I understand that you're concerned about burning it. Pity if that concern kept you from getting gloss after a lot of work. You could always practice on the keel.

Last edited by Siamese; 02-14-2012 at 05:07 PM.
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post #112 of 257 Old 02-14-2012
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First Step

My "new" boat is 30 years old, but it was stored in a TX polebarn for 16 years. So, not fresh from the mold, but very, very good!

But I have decided to compound. Will use all Presta products except wax. That will be the Collinite #885.

Will start push ups and other arm exercises tomorrow.

Jeff
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post #113 of 257 Old 02-15-2012
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I have been detailing cars now for over 18 yrs.A good half of that with a twin speed sander/polisher (Ryobi) It is not the tool you use but how you use it.I use the slowest of the two speeds.Practice on something first.It takes a lot of work to burn thru.If you keep the buff moving,do not let it stay too long in one spot ,you will have no problem.If you hold pad flat to surface,it may jump around a little,due to friction.Lift one edge a little.By the way using the buff and cutters is a good way to remove scratches from perspex windows too.
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post #114 of 257 Old 02-15-2012
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30 years old with 16 in storage....yup, you wanna compound it. You hear a lot of concern with regard to compounding away the gelcoat from compounding too often. Every 30 years is probably not a problem! 6, 8, 10 years down the road maybe you'll do it again, or just Finesse above the waterline in a few years.

Let us know how it goes.
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post #115 of 257 Old 02-16-2012
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New Buffer/Polisher

Just bought the Makita 9227C.

Now, safe up some buck$$ for backer plates, pads, Presta Strata Ultra Cutting Cream Light, Presta Chroma and Collinite #885 and the work shall begin.

Bringing the boat home to MI from NC on the 25th. She should look good by the first launch!

Padre Jeff
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post #116 of 257 Old 02-16-2012 Thread Starter
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Just bought the Makita 9227C.

Now, safe up some buck$$ for backer plates, pads, Presta Strata Ultra Cutting Cream Light, Presta Chroma and Collinite #885 and the work shall begin.

Bringing the boat home to MI from NC on the 25th. She should look good by the first launch!

GO SLOW with lapstrake.. The "over hangs" and "edges" can create hot spots on the pad edges... Can easily be done but requires more patience...

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post #117 of 257 Old 02-16-2012
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Going Slow!

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GO SLOW with lapstrake.. The "over hangs" and "edges" can create hot spots on the pad edges... Can easily be done but requires more patience...

Maine Sail

Thanks for the great tip!

I am going to go very slow as I have never had a "real" buffer polisher in my hands before and I sure do not want to mess up an already pretty boat/hull.

When you say "slow", I presume you are speaking primarily about the RPM's, correct? I'll likely practice a bit on my old pick up truck tail gate and the keel........

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Maine Sail

Thanks for the great tip!

I am going to go very slow as I have never had a "real" buffer polisher in my hands before and I sure do not want to mess up an already pretty boat/hull.

When you say "slow", I presume you are speaking primarily about the RPM's, correct? I'll likely practice a bit on my old pick up truck tail gate and the keel........
Yes RPM.. You want to watch the over hang temps when buffing the strake below it. The edge of the pad can create hot spots if going at to fast an RPM..

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post #119 of 257 Old 02-16-2012
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Slow and Easy, and......

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Yes RPM.. You want to watch the over hang temps when buffing the strake below it. The edge of the pad can create hot spots if going at to fast an RPM..
Thanks, that's what I thought you meant.

Per another tipster here, I will also likely use smaller backing plate and pads on the lapstrake areas. There are 2 3/4" plates that use 4" pads and a 3 3/4" plate that uses 4" or 5" pads from Lake Country. The tipster thought that the smaller pads would have less throw. Either of these will work on the Makita (per AutoGeek.net).

My only concern is that my motion will be nearly all horizontal (not much room on the lapstrake to do any vertical motion).

Thoughts?

And, my gratitude again!

Padre Jeff
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post #120 of 257 Old 02-16-2012
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Yeah, you're restricted to horizontal motion. There's simply no way around that. But...we're talking about a tool that travels in a circle, so in effect, a given square inch is being hit from a lot of different directions. As opposed to the motion of belt sander which travels in a straight line.

Also, you're not going at it with 80 grit. The compound is going to leave a shiny surface. It's gonna work.
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