Tips For Compound, Polish & Wax

[BreakAwayFL]

Fantastic thread, I'll be using it as my instruction guide! Thank you!

[Tafa]

MaineSail, thank you very much for this great information. Great work, clean and simple explanations, images… even I can understand how to make it  its publishing quality material… Thanks again.

Now……. Here’s what I want to give a dazzling shine


She’s a 1986 Nash 26 and hasn’t been looked after since 2010. I have no idea how severe the oxidation is. And I also want to repaint the stripes with another color. (Dark blue) I have no idea if the stripes are awlgrip or something else.

Here’s the sequence which I’m thinking to follow, based on MaineSail’s suggestions,

1- Clean the hull with FSR or similar
2- Wet sand with 1000 grit
3- Apply rubbing compound
4- Re-paint the stripes (is sanding required after applying rubbing compound?)
5- Finesse It or similar
6- Wax
7- Apply signs (stickies)
8- Paint bottom

My questions are;
- Does the above sequence seem correct? If not what you would recommend?
- From this horrible picture, can you tell how severe is the oxidation (Hopefully I can post some close up pics by Monday)
- Is sanding required after applying rubbing compound? (for re-painting stripes)
- How can I figure out what kind of material the stripes painted with?
- Would that be OK If I take loooong breaks after completing each step (breaks up to one week). (Boat stays 80 Km away from my place and I can visit her max 2-3 times a week) In other words does it get oxidized again if I leave it for a week after I sand it?
- Is it ok to put sticky signs after waxing? If not when it should be done?
- What’s the best way/material to remove previously painted (with enamel I guess) signs on the hull?

Many thanks in advance for your help,

Tafa

[maine89]

Originally Posted by Tafa

Here’s the sequence which I’m thinking to follow, based on MaineSail’s suggestions,

1- Clean the hull with FSR or similar
2- Wet sand with 1000 grit
3- Apply rubbing compound
4- Re-paint the stripes (is sanding required after applying rubbing compound?)
5- Finesse It or similar
6- Wax
7- Apply signs (stickies)
8- Paint bottom

My questions are;
- Does the above sequence seem correct? If not what you would recommend?
- From this horrible picture, can you tell how severe is the oxidation (Hopefully I can post some close up pics by Monday)
- Is sanding required after applying rubbing compound? (for re-painting stripes)
- How can I figure out what kind of material the stripes painted with?
- Would that be OK If I take loooong breaks after completing each step (breaks up to one week). (Boat stays 80 Km away from my place and I can visit her max 2-3 times a week) In other words does it get oxidized again if I leave it for a week after I sand it?
- Is it ok to put sticky signs after waxing? If not when it should be done?
- What’s the best way/material to remove previously painted (with enamel I guess) signs on the hull?

Many thanks in advance for your help,

Tafa

Take my advice with a grain of salt because I knew nothing before starting with MaineSail's guide.

1. I'm not sure about you needing FSR. I paid $19 for a small bottle of On & Off from WM and it was a total waste. I'd put in on the hull as directed, wait 60 seconds, then rinse it off, and I'd have dirt left over that could be wiped with a finger. If I then used a towel to wipe it, it would be clean, but the towel functioned the same way without the expensive On & Off. I think that stuff is probably intended for big rust stains etc. that would resist other cleaners. What I ended up doing was just using some Simple Green and a rag to clean the hull before starting with the compounding.

4. I'm not sure how things change when you involve painting. I was wanting to change the colors of my stripes too but I decided against the added complication.

6 & 7. I think it would make more sense to apply the decal and then wax. That way the vinyl is sticking to the clean hull instead of a temporary surfacing.

[arf145]

I had similar thoughts about the On & Off, Maine89. Next time, I'll probably go Simple Green or the like.

But I have to say, this is the first year I followed MaineSail's directions close to 100%--Makita polisher, Presta products, recommend 3m pads, microfiber cloths, Fleetwax--and I was very pleased with the results on my 25-yr-old Pearson. I hope to not have to compound next time, and just go with the Presta Cutting Creme. Some of my observations:

* Working that Makita while standing on a ladder is hard! I had to laugh at MS's advice to keep the pad moving. How could I not!? The thing owned me until I got better at it. Exhausting. I found that the moistness of the compound was crucial to making sure the Makita didn't fling me aside like a pesky afterthought.

* Love those Presta products! Being water soluble means water clean up. No prob getting the wool pads clean.

* Oddly enough, I got my best results with the compound by polishing it until it was mostly gone. I know this is contra MS's instructions, but it seemed to work. I started doing this to save my arms from rubbing off the compound (hoping to live to fight another day), but then saw a better finish.

* Speed does matter. For a while I wasn't ramping up the speed as directed and wasn't getting the results. It was a breezy dry day and my stuff was just drying so fast, I couldn't get up to speed before it was too late. Once I got the pad damp enough with the sprayer--close to the point of flinging (and occasionally over it!)--I finally finished up with a high enough speed to get it smooth.

* The Fleetwax paste went on, and more importantly, off, easier than their liquid I thought. Maybe this was because the surface was smoother this time?

Anyway, thanks for the awesome tutorial, MaineSail!

Tom

[maine89]

Originally Posted by arf145

I had similar thoughts about the On & Off, Maine89. Next time, I'll probably go Simple Green or the like.

But I have to say, this is the first year I followed MaineSail's directions close to 100%--Makita polisher, Presta products, recommend 3m pads, microfiber cloths, Fleetwax--and I was very pleased with the results on my 25-yr-old Pearson. I hope to not have to compound next time, and just go with the Presta Cutting Creme. Some of my observations:

* Working that Makita while standing on a ladder is hard! I had to laugh at MS's advice to keep the pad moving. How could I not!? The thing owned me until I got better at it. Exhausting. I found that the moistness of the compound was crucial to making sure the Makita didn't fling me aside like a pesky afterthought.

* Love those Presta products! Being water soluble means water clean up. No prob getting the wool pads clean.

* Oddly enough, I got my best results with the compound by polishing it until it was mostly gone. I know this is contra MS's instructions, but it seemed to work. I started doing this to save my arms from rubbing off the compound (hoping to live to fight another day), but then saw a better finish.

* Speed does matter. For a while I wasn't ramping up the speed as directed and wasn't getting the results. It was a breezy dry day and my stuff was just drying so fast, I couldn't get up to speed before it was too late. Once I got the pad damp enough with the sprayer--close to the point of flinging (and occasionally over it!)--I finally finished up with a high enough speed to get it smooth.

* The Fleetwax paste went on, and more importantly, off, easier than their liquid I thought. Maybe this was because the surface was smoother this time?

Anyway, thanks for the awesome tutorial, MaineSail!

Tom

I too went with the exact model of everything he suggested just so I would be the only variable (which is variable enough trust me...)

Yes the buffer was quite formidable. I know he said to keep it flat but I found keeping it at a slight angle gave me a lot more control.

I too worked the material until it was mostly gone, but that is because I wasn't sure when I was done. I think at the time my mind figured if the compound, creme or polish was mostly gone, it must have done what it needed to do. But really I should have given it a closer look.

I'm really not sure if I attained 30% or 70% of the results of someone who knew what they were doing, but it was shinier than when I started, that is for certain And I didn't eat through all the gel coat, which was a concern keeping me from being too aggressive with the compounding. I suppose you can be (and probably should be) more aggressive with the creme and polish since you can't really do much damage at the higher grit level but even on a 27 foot boat I was fighting the clock. It's a 140 mile round-trip to get to the boat and the yard will lock me in at 5pm so I was rushing on the second day (hour 8-16) to get done.


PS: Has anyone used the Mikita polisher/sander for sanding? How does it compare to orbital or random orbital sanders? I'm needing a sander and hoping I can use this $180 investment as one as well, instead of another $80 for a modest sander.

[Maine Sail]

Originally Posted by maine89

Take my advice with a grain of salt because I knew nothing before starting with MaineSail's guide.

1. I'm not sure about you needing FSR. I paid $19 for a small bottle of On & Off from WM and it was a total waste. I'd put in on the hull as directed, wait 60 seconds, then rinse it off, and I'd have dirt left over that could be wiped with a finger.

Guys the ACID is ONLY FOR YELLOWING OR TANNIN STAINING. It is NOT for general cleaning...

If your boat does not have yellowing or tanning stains then you can SKIP this step...

It is to do this only:

[svalvasori]

I'm lining up to buy exactly what specified and will give it a go! Admittedly on a powerboat...
My question is this, I will be replacing the boat name and license numbers this year. My thought it I should remove them before I compound, but I don't know when I should put the new ones on? I may not even have the new ones until after I wax but I have a feeling that putting stickers on wax is not a good idea.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Steve.

[paperbird]

My sequence was:

remove old letters
goo gone to remove any traces of old adhesive
wet sand per procedure
repeat goo gone when you find trace amounts of old adhesive
continue with procedure through to polishing step
apply new letters
wax

Very satisfied with the results. Only slightest trace of old letters visible at certain angles. I suspect that's due to the old letters being there for a lot of years and the uneven weathering of the gelcoat underneath.

[maine89]

Originally Posted by svalvasori

I'm lining up to buy exactly what specified and will give it a go! Admittedly on a powerboat...
My question is this, I will be replacing the boat name and license numbers this year. My thought it I should remove them before I compound, but I don't know when I should put the new ones on? I may not even have the new ones until after I wax but I have a feeling that putting stickers on wax is not a good idea.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Steve.

You should remove them. The gelcoat under the vinyl will not match the rest and compounding is a good way to help blend it a little. If you leave the decals on you will likely need to hit that area again.

If you need to put the vinyl on after a waxing you can use acetone, denatured alcohol, xylol etc to get it off and cleaned. Some people prefer certain types but those are common.

[svalvasori]

Alright, almost everything is on order, including gallon sized Presta product. Really not that bad, in for ~$550 as I was starting from absolutely nothing. I figure I'll have enough product for at least 2 years if not more so price per year isn't bad.

Have a few questions:
What do I do with windows, rub rail, etc? I'm thinking you tape over everything that isn't FG? I would think you don't want to sand those parts.

How do people do small areas, like in the cockpit? I am thinking just to apply with a hand applicator, but I'm not sure if you can do this with a compound or not? Perhaps I don't need to do the cockpit since it's usually covered, I'll have to see what it looks like.

How do you clean/shine the non-skid sections?

My boat isn't chalky (nothing comes off on my hands), it's white and a tiny bit shiney but nothing like a deep shine. I'm thinking to start with the Gel Coat Compound to make sure I've got a good base. Is it possible that I can do harm starting with this compound if I don't need to? Here is what the hull looks like now: