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  #191  
Old 07-22-2012
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Re: Tips For Compound, Polish & Wax

bandaidmd,
here's a good pic of the Milwaukee and its mode of attachment. I have all the parts, I'm just confused by the two (or is it three) types keeping the pad on the wheel. Is it Velcro (hook-it), tightened string, or just pressure from the flange? THe sites that sell don't seem to be clear and all the professional body shops near me are closed when I'm off work, can't seem to get some local advice.

I want to have this right before I spend 25-35$ on pads/bonnet if I go online.
THanks
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  #192  
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Re: Tips For Compound, Polish & Wax

Thats good it looks like you have everything. The type of pad you had in your first picture is really the best style for your setup. Push the nut down into the hole of the pad against the semirigid backer that the napp is mounted on,now place that onto the hard black rubber piece with the exposed part of the nut down in the recess on the black rubber backer. Now take this and screw it onto your motor,to tighten press the spindle lock and grab the pad and backer and give a good twist,its that simple. You have plenty of pads to choose from with this style including the foam rubber type for light polishing. For the velcro style you will have to purchase everything new from the threaded shaft out. Those tie on bonnetts,just leave them at the store.

If theres a auto parts store near you they have these supplies its the same stuff the body shops use. I'm talking a real old school type store not autozone or advanced, NAPA would be a good choice ,take your grinder in with you if you want there pros and very willing to help.
where you at near DC?

Last edited by bandaidmd; 07-22-2012 at 09:06 AM.
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  #193  
Old 07-22-2012
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Re: Tips For Compound, Polish & Wax

bandaidmd,
thanks for the clarification! I think the "loop" on the current pad was throwing me. And I knew the "string" types are awful. The pad I have feels way to rough and must be compounding vs polish. My boat is in pretty good shape finish wise so I'll go straight to polish pad(s).

Cheers
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  #194  
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Re: Tips For Compound, Polish & Wax

hey i almost forgot ,check your rpms on that miwalkee if its a grinder and not a polisher it will easily burn whatever your buffing. I dont remember the exact numbers but its something like 3 to 4k for a buffer and upwards of 7k for a grinder.

you can clean that pad by spinning it and using the tip of an old phillips screwdriver across the face ,you'll be surprised to find how soft it becomes after cleaning.

Last edited by bandaidmd; 07-22-2012 at 09:58 AM.
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  #195  
Old 09-06-2012
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Re: Tips For Compound, Polish & Wax

Quote:
Originally Posted by F15EWSO View Post
bandaidmd,
thanks for the clarification! I think the "loop" on the current pad was throwing me. And I knew the "string" types are awful. The pad I have feels way to rough and must be compounding vs polish. My boat is in pretty good shape finish wise so I'll go straight to polish pad(s).

Cheers
I believe Milwalkee also sells a hook pad that will peel and stick onto the rubber disk you already have, then you can use the hook and loop bonnets.
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  #196  
Old 09-10-2012
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Re: Tips For Compound, Polish & Wax

My boss is stupid, thinks 3-1/2 days is to long for detailing a 30 foot Catalina, that is heavivy oxidized, rust stained, dirty, tarnished metal and a bunch of other details. Sorry but I take pride in my work, this is not some $50 wax/detail at some ghetto drive through car wash! His mentality is not that high, here's his typical detail job ( ones I don't do) let's wet sand *even if the gel coats very lightly oxized, still shiny, or extremely thin, ect.... He uses plain sheets 1500-2000 grit paper, with very rapid uneven pressure, leaving deep finger marks and swirls. Then he proceeds to compound it or even worse 3m 1 step it! Which dont even remove the sanding marks, then applys and removes the Collinite wax with a compounding pad at high speeds. So there's swirls from the wetsanding,compounding and waxing, but if it looks shiny it's ok and all he cares about. Even with his crappy selection of products I can easily out do him, with stuff I've learned online and such, I've stared out knowing nothing and took me a little while get the the full aspect of the whole process, I have never fully done it properly(bits and pieces but not the whole thing), but have a plan too with the proper products and technics.
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  #197  
Old 09-10-2012
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Re: Tips For Compound, Polish & Wax

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRaven View Post
My boss is stupid, thinks 3-1/2 days is to long for detailing a 30 foot Catalina, that is heavivy oxidized, rust stained, dirty, tarnished metal and a bunch of other details. Sorry but I take pride in my work, this is not some $50 wax/detail at some ghetto drive through car wash! His mentality is not that high, here's his typical detail job ( ones I don't do) let's wet sand *even if the gel coats very lightly oxized, still shiny, or extremely thin, ect.... He uses plain sheets 1500-2000 grit paper, with very rapid uneven pressure, leaving deep finger marks and swirls. Then he proceeds to compound it or even worse 3m 1 step it! Which dont even remove the sanding marks, then applys and removes the Collinite wax with a compounding pad at high speeds. So there's swirls from the wetsanding,compounding and waxing, but if it looks shiny it's ok and all he cares about. Even with his crappy selection of products I can easily out do him, with stuff I've learned online and such, I've stared out knowing nothing and took me a little while get the the full aspect of the whole process, I have never fully done it properly(bits and pieces but not the whole thing), but have a plan too with the proper products and technics.
Sounds like you'll be in a great position to compete with him when you're ready.
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  #198  
Old 09-22-2012
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Re: Tips For Compound, Polish & Wax

Maine Sail,

I plan on following your post to "t" on a 1985 Catalina 36 that has medium oxidation. I plan on also wetsanding the hull prior to applying the compound. My question is how much Presta product should I order to complete the job? How much time should I allot? I am a complete novice at this.

All,

Looking for opinions... pulled the boat out of the water and found a dozen or so 2-4" blisters on the starboard side. They appear purely cosmetic and have not changed in size over the last couple of years. Everyone has their own opinion, but I am thinking about just leaving them and just apply a couple of fresh coats of bottom paint. I never heard of a boat sinking due to blisters. Any thoughts?

Last edited by Chinook2218; 09-22-2012 at 10:52 AM.
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  #199  
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Re: Tips For Compound, Polish & Wax

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chinook2218 View Post
Maine Sail,

I plan on following your post to "t" on a 1985 Catalina 36 that has medium oxidation. I plan on also wetsanding the hull prior to applying the compound. My question is how much Presta product should I order to complete the job? How much time should I allot? I am a complete novice at this.

All,

Looking for opinions... pulled the boat out of the water and found a dozen or so 2-4" blisters on the starboard side. They appear purely cosmetic and have not changed in size over the last couple of years. Everyone has their own opinion, but I am thinking about just leaving them and just apply a couple of fresh coats of bottom paint. I never heard of a boat sinking due to blisters. Any thoughts?
I did my 43 foot Irwin with a 32 oz bottle then did my Explorer, my son's Honda and still have product left. As we worked the boat with a wool bonnet we found that if we put TOO much presta we worked twice as hard. Don't use more than you need for the polish as getting it off can be tough. As you start the job your learning curve will go up very quickly.
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Boat Type Irwin 43 Mk III Center Cockpit--Sold it
Boat Yr, 1989
Boat Length 43'

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Old 09-23-2012
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Re: Tips For Compound, Polish & Wax

Any tips for hand compounding/polishing, for parts the buffer won't fit. To keep it looking the same as the machine polished area. How about curved surfaces, say above the toerail ect.. The last thing, what's the best way to remove someone's crappy wet sanding job( scratches/swirls) is more work to try to buff it out, or is it better to wetsand it again correctly.
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