Tips For Compound, Polish & Wax - Page 4

JohnRPollard · #31 01-05-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by arisatx

While normally bad form to revive an old post (Forum Admin: this one should be a sticky),

I agree. Consider it done, and thanks for the suggestion.

P.S. If anyone is aware of other Maine Sail classics that should be stickies, please bring them to my attention and I'll be happy to take care of it. These very helpful and instructive posts shouldn't be buried in the depths of the forum.

Bazzer · #32 01-11-2010

Maine Sail,
I thank you for taking the time to share "trade secrets" with us. I know this is strictly a boat forum, but you mention many hours of cleaning and polishing classic cars. Being the proud owner of a all black H1, I was wondering if you could point me in the right direction as to cleaning and shining it. Should I follow your boat instructions or not?
If this is not the appropriate place to answer this maybe you could give me a url or two.
Thanks,
Barry

saildog1 · #33 01-12-2010

I don't think that process would work but you can try it on my Tartan 3800 if you would like, please. I'll by lunch.

Maine Sail · #34 01-12-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bazzer

Maine Sail,
I thank you for taking the time to share "trade secrets" with us. I know this is strictly a boat forum, but you mention many hours of cleaning and polishing classic cars. Being the proud owner of a all black H1, I was wondering if you could point me in the right direction as to cleaning and shining it. Should I follow your boat instructions or not?
If this is not the appropriate place to answer this maybe you could give me a url or two.
Thanks,
Barry

Barry,

Quite different for cars and dependent upon the paint type. For cars I now only use RO buffers and foam pads from Lake Country. I do use Presta Chroma 1500 though just not the more aggressive stuff.

harbin2 · #35 03-16-2010

Maine Sail
Thanks for the great job of documenting this process and sharing it. I have done a scaled down version of this twice now (the last two consecutive Springs) with pretty poor results. I am using some of the right materials but I need to upgrade my buffer and take more steps. In my last attempt, I cleaned the hull with some (probably inefective) Greased Lightning spray cleaner, compounded the hull with 3m heavy duty compound (using a cheap buffer with a cheap wool pad), applied Finesse 2 with a cotton rag, waxed with Collenite 885 and hand buffed with a microfiber. I'm getting some of it right but I'm very unhappy with the results. At this point, I'm just wanting to protect the hull from further oxidation till next Fall (the boat - a 1881 Islander - goes back in the water soon) when I can do a more correct and thurough job.

After reading your original post again, I do have a couple areas that are unclear to me.
1. Pre-cleaning. I think this was my first big failing. I have read about using MEK, Tourlene, dish soap, etc. You suggest on/off. I have all these products but I'm still a little confused about what is for what. I want to remove Wax and imbeded dirt.
2. Getting a shine. I don't think I'm removing enough. The compounding seems to go pretty well but when I wipe it off, there is still little shine. I'll try wet sanding first next time. However, what ever I do get with the compound, when I follow it up with Finesse, the finish gets worse. I have basically stopped using Finesse because of this.

Thanks again,
harbin2

SVCarolena · #36 03-16-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by harbin2

compounded the hull with 3m heavy duty compound (using a cheap buffer with a cheap wool pad), applied Finesse 2 with a cotton rag,

Seems like the problem is applying the Finesse It with a cotton rag. In order to get the best polish (and this is the step that really brings out the shine), you need a good buffer and foam pad for the Finesse It. Compound alone will not give you a shine. You could use a fine wool pad for the polish, which is what we use, but it does require more skill to avoid swirls. Like Maine Sail, I spent many of my early years buffing cars. What really surprised me is that the Mikita polisher still seems to be the industry standard. Of course, we didn't have the fancy speed control units back then, nor did we have foam pads (really had to be careful not to burn the paint), but the technique is the same. Anyway, try the Finesse It with a buffer before resorting to wetsanding, I think you will be pleased with the results.

hazmat17 · #37 03-16-2010

I'd like to give my thanks for this thread as well...

I'm pulling the supplies together now - have the buffer, sandpaper, presta compounds - need to get some wool/foam pads.

One question - is there a smaller buffer that you'd recommend for the topsides nooks and crannies? areas the 7" machine won't get into...

sailingdog · #38 03-16-2010

Fein multimaster??

Quote:

Originally Posted by hazmat17

I'd like to give my thanks for this thread as well...

I'm pulling the supplies together now - have the buffer, sandpaper, presta compounds - need to get some wool/foam pads.

One question - is there a smaller buffer that you'd recommend for the topsides nooks and crannies? areas the 7" machine won't get into...

jason3317 · #39 03-16-2010

Has anyone ever heard of or used this product: Aqua-Buff.

Aqua Buff – Gives you a swirl free shine! Polishing compound, compound polish, marine polish, polyurethane compound, buffing compound

SVCarolena · #40 03-16-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by hazmat17

I'd like to give my thanks for this thread as well...

I'm pulling the supplies together now - have the buffer, sandpaper, presta compounds - need to get some wool/foam pads.

One question - is there a smaller buffer that you'd recommend for the topsides nooks and crannies? areas the 7" machine won't get into...

Like the Dog said, or another alternative is that I've seen buffing pads that will fit a palm sander (the round random orbit kind). However, I've never used one so can't comment on how well it works.