Tips For Compound, Polish & Wax

[pamarine]

Originally Posted by sailingdog

You really should read Maine Sail's post on polishing and waxing...

I already did. Other than not using some of the products he recommends, I'm doing the things he's talking about. Not sure where the problem is coming from, hence my post.

[sailingdog]

What stage of polishing are you at, or are you just compounding it at this point?

[pamarine]

Originally Posted by sailingdog

What stage of polishing are you at, or are you just compounding it at this point?

I've compounded and polished with Finesse It II. I'm wondering if I did a sup-par compounding job. But before I go nuts redoing it, just want a second opinion.

[sailingdog]

Originally Posted by pamarine

I've compounded and polished with Finesse It II. I'm wondering if I did a sup-par compounding job. But before I go nuts redoing it, just want a second opinion.

Photos would help...but I'd recommend you start a thread of your own. Read the POST in my signature as it will tell you how to start your own thread as well as the easiest way to post photos on sailnet. You'll need 10 posts to do so though.

[Maine Sail]

Originally Posted by pamarine

I just started compounding a 38' that is oxidized. Never done this before, grabbed a 9227cy, some 3M Super Duty Compound, and Finesse It II. I am using a SM Arnold "Tuffer Buffer" Compounding & Polishing Pad #57-375 (It's all the local supplier had).

So far all I've done is the transom, and while it looks great right up close and at off angles, when you stand back about 10 ft it's all uneven and hazy. What am I doing wrong?

If it was all uneven and hazy you were not done compounding. Until the hazyness or coudyness is gone you can't begin to use Finesse It. The shine should look nearly perfect and very shiny before Finesse It.

You also should not use Finesse It with a compounding grade pad or it won't add any benefit what so ever and may leave it worse off. Contrary to popular belief there is no such thing as a compounding & polishing pad as they are two different grades of pad one much more aggressive than the other. You'd be better to use a polishing grade pad with a compound than a compound pad with a polish.

If you were to use an SM Arnold pad for polishing it would be the #53-375 not the #57-375. The 57-375 is a compounding grade pad not a polishing grade pad..


The AM Arnold Polishing Pad

53-375 SPIN BRITE® 4-Ply Polishing Pad w/ Loop Backing 7.50” Diameter, 1.50” Wool & Synthetic Fibers, Curved Edge.

The Compounding Pad

57-375 TUFFER BUFFER™ Compounding & Buffing Pad w/ Loop Backing 7.50” Diameter, 1.50” 4-Ply Wool, Curved Edge



P.S. I have NO idea how good these pads are so can't guarantee the results. 3M, Lake Country & Presta all make great pads but there are many companies out there producing pure crap..

If you can get a 53-375 try it with the compound then follow up with the Finesse It using the same pad. Often times some compounding pads will not allow a deep shine because they are just to aggressive..

[pamarine]

Yea, I was kind of leary about a "Combination" pad but it was all that was available at the time.

I think I'm gonna order some of the 3M pads as I know from selling them they are at least quality then go at it again next week.

[wwilson]

I rarely read threads with more than a dozen posts - figuring the issue has been laid to rest by then. A mistake in this case, I've just had my boat launched and she looks great, but I'll not know how much better it might have been with these tips and how-to's. I'll apply them next season. Nice Job Maine!

I have learned the right tool over time (by expensive trial and error) and it all leads to the Mikita 9227C - what a great beast the thing is! (A perverse admiration for tools capable of snapping your thumb with their torque.)

[gallilaw]

After practically memorizing the steps and equipment mentioned in this post, and buying a lot of it, I discovered that the used boat I bought might have been Awlgripped.

The deck is the original white gelcoat, but the hull is jet black. When I removed a transducer from the bottom, the ring around the hole, where the transducer lip was sealed to the hull, untouched by bottom paint, was shiny jet black. That might have indicated that black was the original factory color; but residue in the bilge where the transducer poked inside the hull indicated that the transducer I replace might have replaced an even older one -- so the hull might have been painted black before the current transducer was added.

Is there any way I can find out for sure it the black finish is Awlgrip?

Thanks.

[pamarine]

Originally Posted by gallilaw

After practically memorizing the steps and equipment mentioned in this post, and buying a lot of it, I discovered that the used boat I bought might have been Awlgripped.

The deck is the original white gelcoat, but the hull is jet black. When I removed a transducer from the bottom, the ring around the hole, where the transducer lip was sealed to the hull, untouched by bottom paint, was shiny jet black. That might have indicated that black was the original factory color; but residue in the bilge where the transducer poked inside the hull indicated that the transducer I replace might have replaced an even older one -- so the hull might have been painted black before the current transducer was added.

Is there any way I can find out for sure it the black finish is Awlgrip?

Thanks.

I doubt very much that Awlgrip was used below the waterline. It is more likely that it is a thin-film bottom paint that was polished after application.

[bacinmass]

Total newbie at this, a couple of questions about the compounding step...
1. How much compound should I use? Am I supposed to reload the pad at the beginning of every 2X2 area?
2. How does the compound get off the surface? It seems like I'm wiping the 2X2 area down after compounding? with a damp sponge? Damp cloth?

My 1984 O'Day 26 thanks you in advance!