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  #11  
Old 04-07-2009
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  #12  
Old 04-07-2009
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US27inks-I Bought the copper tube and I just bought one of those little benders to get more accururate bends. IF I had cowl vents, I would have went with the option you chose. It's alot less risk, with no seawater circulating though the boat. I am going to try to have a dry bilge so I won't be voluntarily draining anything into it, and as long as I don't run it while underway I shouldn't have to worry about the drain angle. I won't be using it while underway, so the tilt shouldn't be a problem with the oil in the compressor. I do plan to use it on the hook though. Good point pdq, I could put it on a gimble if there were any issues.
The copper coil will be right next to the condenser and then I am going to build a waterproof box around them and fill it with oil. I wish there was an epoxy tat transfered heat really well. I would just make a solid mold around them both and seal them in with the epoxy. Regular epoxy won't handle the heat and it won't transfer heat easily either.
I would consider alot of solder to cover everything but I fear it may melt the solder on the condenser and leak R-12.
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  #13  
Old 04-07-2009
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  #14  
Old 04-07-2009
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I'm a little confused about what your plan is. The heat exchanger that I was talking about would replace the existing condenser, not add to it. Building a water proof box, and filling it with oil? So are you wanting to build a device that exchanges the heat from the copper to oil then to water? I don't get it. Why wouldn't you want to circulate water directly around the copper?

It wasn't the drain angle that had me concerned when I said the drain would be a problem. The A/C end of it is not sealed. It's just a drip pan with a drain hole. If you have your a/c unit below the water line, and try to plumb it to the sink drain, you will find your mast poking out of the water in your slip the next morning. Even if it's mounted above the water line, and you heel the boat over far enough, I can guarantee you a wet bilge or worse.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HermitScott View Post
US27inks-I Bought the copper tube and I just bought one of those little benders to get more accururate bends. IF I had cowl vents, I would have went with the option you chose. It's alot less risk, with no seawater circulating though the boat. I am going to try to have a dry bilge so I won't be voluntarily draining anything into it, and as long as I don't run it while underway I shouldn't have to worry about the drain angle. I won't be using it while underway, so the tilt shouldn't be a problem with the oil in the compressor. I do plan to use it on the hook though. Good point pdq, I could put it on a gimble if there were any issues.
The copper coil will be right next to the condenser and then I am going to build a waterproof box around them and fill it with oil. I wish there was an epoxy tat transfered heat really well. I would just make a solid mold around them both and seal them in with the epoxy. Regular epoxy won't handle the heat and it won't transfer heat easily either.
I would consider alot of solder to cover everything but I fear it may melt the solder on the condenser and leak R-12.
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  #15  
Old 04-07-2009
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I see what you mean by being below the water line now. I was going to mount it under the cockpit where a bridge deck would be, at the top of the companionway ladder and behind it. That will put it above the sink, so it would be above the waterline.
I am not too confident about cutting apart the refriegeration lines to replace the condenser. Also, I wouldn't trust submersing the existing condenser in sea water because of the solder. I am suggesting submersing the existing condenser and a copper cooling coil(with seawater running through it) in oil together.
The heat would transfer from the existing condenser to the oil then to the cooling coil. The waterproof box is very tight around the coil and the condenser. There won't be much oil, maybe a cup, just enough to fill in the gaps between the coil and the condenser, so the heat doean't have to transfer across air.
The way you are suggesting is better, but I don't trust myself replacing the condenser.
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Old 04-07-2009
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uH.. Scot.. your trying to make something you can buy already made, for about the same cost of the copper you have. it's called a
"coaxial heat exchanger" . go to you local refrigeration supply. you can get them in cupro nickel which is what you need for sea water. You will see them in ice makers, water source heat pump and ac, and of course in boats. you don't need oil.. your only exchanging heat from freon to water.
good luck
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Old 04-07-2009
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denise-does that require cuttinng out the existing condenser? Can you really get a heat exchanger for $15? For that I might try replacing the condenser.
I tried heating the copper and bending it, it keeps folding and not bending smoothly. I am going to try filling it with sand next.

edit: I looked up coaxial heat exchangers. Some of them seem to be pretty cheap. I emailed a company and asked them for a price on one that could handle 5200 btu. Their online catalog says they go from 1/2 to 30 tons. 1/2 ton = 6000 btu. So 1/2 ton looks pretty close. IF I can get one under $50 I will try it that way. I live in a warehouse and I have a fabrication shop down stairs. Up front is a Midas shop owned by my partner. They have all the equipment for AC, including R134a.
I will look into this and see if I can do it.
second edit: I was like this dude spells Denis weird. Then I looked at your profile and you are not a dude. You are a Denise. Then I was like what does she know about air conditioners. Then I read further. You own a heating and ac business!
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Last edited by HermitScott; 04-07-2009 at 11:04 PM.
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Old 04-08-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deniseO30 View Post
uH.. Scot.. your trying to make something you can buy already made, for about the same cost of the copper you have. it's called a
"coaxial heat exchanger" . go to you local refrigeration supply. you can get them in cupro nickel which is what you need for sea water. You will see them in ice makers, water source heat pump and ac, and of course in boats. you don't need oil.. your only exchanging heat from freon to water.
good luck
Good call Denise. I had seen those before, but couldn't think of the name. I tried several different search terms but couldn't find anything. I had no idea they were so cheap though.
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Old 04-08-2009
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yes you need to cut the lines, the coax hx will totally replace the finned coil.
you will also need to solder or braze gauge ports, one on the hi side ( line coming from the coax and one in front of the comp. (low side) Most likely the window unit is R22 and that is not hard to come by like R12, you also need a vac pump before you recharge, and just add enough gas to have the line to the compressong cold and sweating but not the compressor cold and sweating. should only need less then a pound.
good luck
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Old 04-08-2009
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I'm definitely going that route. Thanks for the expert advice and keeping me from wasting my time. I will look for one today.
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