Midwest Puddle Pirate
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Gardner, KS
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 14
Scott, I'm sure you can put that engineering degree to work and figure this out.
You're right, Maine Sail got his terminology backward about the evap and condenser. I catch myself doing that all the time. To make a water cooled condenser, all you need is the right length and diameter copper tube submerged in water. No rocket science there. Figure out how much tubing you need by looking at the original condenser, then coil it as small as possible without cracking it. Silver solder fittings on the ends that can pass through (and seal to) a pvc cap. Put a pair of hose barb fittings in another cap, with one having a length of tube on the inside as well to reach the other side of the heat exchanger. Shove the whole mess inside a pvc pipe and solvent glue the caps on. Mount it well above the water line and plumb it to your water pump and a/c lines. You can use the a/c condenser fan motor leads to run the water pump or a relay for the water pump depending on the amperage of the fan vs the water pump.
I wouldn't tie the condenser drain to your sink drain. The condenser is just a catch pan and unless it's mounted well above the water line (even when heeled over), you're asking for trouble. Instead, I would drain it into the bilge, and let the bilge pump take care of it.
BTW, if you want to find some pics of a heat exchanger built this way, surf some salt water fish tank sites. search for DIY chillers. The only difference is that a fish tank chiller submerges the evaporator instead of the condenser. Fish tank chillers also use stainless exclusively because leaching copper into the water kills (very expensive) invertebrates, just like bottom paint.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
John USYacht 27 "Cora Lee"