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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2011
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As SJB alluded to above, the engine will start on it's own shipping lube, and like any compression-ignition engine, diesel is not it's favorite fuel.

I learned this trick from the chief engineer of a cruise ship. For assistance starting your diesel: take off the air filter and while cranking (either by hand or electric starter) spray WD-40 into the air intake. This is how they bench test diesels in shops he worked. Even with a fuel source disconnected they will run indefinitely on WD-40 and they are MUCH easier to start with it's help.

NOTE: do NOT use starting fluid (either) for this trick. It will eat your rings. WD-40 will not.

My method for hand cranking, that was foolproof required 2 people.

The weaker of the two tries their best to start the engine. The throttle must be wide open. After several failures They have added significant heat to the combustion chamber.

Now the stronger person spins the handle like a bastard as fast as they can, again with a wide open throttle. The second person releases the levers when the cranking person least expects it. This usually works. If it doesn't try again, this time with the lever releasing party spraying 4D-40 into the air intake (throttle still wide open). This always works.

An alternative is to buy one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...Z833PY6SD8GFG0

Don't waste your money on a cheap one. This particular model I have used to start a friends 4cylinder diesel genset on their boat. We cranked and cranked that puppy while troubleshooting it for several goes of 10 full seconds a piece. The group 24 battery we were "assisting" at the time showed 11.0 volts.

MedSailor

I still think you should get the handle.
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Last edited by MedSailor; 12-16-2011 at 12:34 AM.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2011
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That WD 40 tip beats the older and riskier trick of holding a burning oily rag to the air intake while cranking.
My 3GMF is a bitch with the hand crank positioned near the sole so scraped knuckles are inevitable without gloves.
I tried to start her last summer when the battery went flat, no joy but luckily the battery fo my electic outboard did the trick. Didnt risk the pre heat as I was still in dock but will give the more sensible WD40 tip a go as its always good to be prepared for battery failure.
Safe sailing
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by centaursailor View Post
That WD 40 tip beats the older and riskier trick of holding a burning oily rag to the air intake while cranking.
My 3GMF is a bitch with the hand crank positioned near the sole so scraped knuckles are inevitable without gloves.
I tried to start her last summer when the battery went flat, no joy but luckily the battery fo my electic outboard did the trick. Didnt risk the pre heat as I was still in dock but will give the more sensible WD40 tip a go as its always good to be prepared for battery failure.
Safe sailing
Burning oily rag? Sounds like a recipe for an insurance claim!

The version of that I have used is holding a blowtorch to the intake. Compression begets heat which begets ignition. If you start with hotter air (ie the torch) it's easier.

BTW do NOT try the blowtorch trick and the WD-40 trick at the same time.


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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2012
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Re: yanmar manual crank?

I'm a little fuzzy on the decompression trick. On my Yanmar YSM 12 when opened the engine spins easily. When closed engine is impossible to spin. Additionally, it's located under the air intake so the only way to open and close it while spinning is with a string attached to the lever. Any help/advice?
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Old 03-16-2012
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Re: yanmar manual crank?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sailingking22 View Post
I'm a little fuzzy on the decompression trick. On my Yanmar YSM 12 when opened the engine spins easily. When closed engine is impossible to spin. Additionally, it's located under the air intake so the only way to open and close it while spinning is with a string attached to the lever. Any help/advice?
In most cases, hand cranking a diesel is a two man job - one to crank, the other to control the decomp, spraying WD40 etc.
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Old 03-16-2012
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Re: yanmar manual crank?

Hi Bradfalk,

I used to have a 2GM18 in my first boat and I managed once to start it by manual cranking. It was a starter failure, not a battery related issue so jumper cables etc was not the option.

As mentioned here before it's a two man job. One for cranking, one for managing the decompression levers. Cranking it to the starting speed is hard but possible.

Once you get enough rpm, closing decompression levers needs to be done as one cylinder at a time.

In my experience it worked but it needs, lots of muscle power and sweat.

Good luck

Tafa
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Old 03-16-2012
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Re: yanmar manual crank?

One Yanmar salesman told me of a guy who hose clamped a diving weigh to his starting handle to get enough momentum to get her to fire. He said it worked that time. Harder to do on a colder engine in winter.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2012
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Re: yanmar manual crank?

This is one situation where nothing replaces a huge flywheel. One of those monsters like they used on big single Volvos and the Swedish SABB diesels. Decompress, take 15 or 20 minutes () to get that thing up to speed and let go - kachunk, kachunk, kachunk......

Personally, I'd prefer to see marine diesels regress to that old style of engine. Modern pump and injector technology, fine but lightweight rpm's are a poor substitute for all that slow moving iron IMHO. They sure don't last as long either. I fully intend to have my granddaughter inherit my old Perkins lump, drips and all. I just wish IT had a hand crank and bigger wheel.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2012
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Re: yanmar manual crank?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tafa View Post
Hi Bradfalk,

I used to have a 2GM18 in my first boat and I managed once to start it by manual cranking. It was a starter failure, not a battery related issue so jumper cables etc was not the option.

As mentioned here before it's a two man job. One for cranking, one for managing the decompression levers. Cranking it to the starting speed is hard but possible.

Once you get enough rpm, closing decompression levers needs to be done as one cylinder at a time.

In my experience it worked but it needs, lots of muscle power and sweat.

Good luck

Tafa
I agree with the above part about it being a 2 person job. Never tried to do it alone. As for releasing the levers one at a time, I never tried that either, mine were attached together at the decompression lever.

It takes sweat, some muscle, but mainly (manly?) technique. I hand started mine a dozen or more times and I'm 5'10 160lbs. I have to admit, besides the confidence you gain from being able to start a motor without an electrical system or without a starter, there is just a certain kind of Cave Man pleasure you get out of getting the iron beast to relent and succumb to your pure strength. It's just plain FUN when it goes "spins-spin-spin-spin-spin Thunk.......... thunk... thunk..thunk.thunkthunktnkthunk"

I really like the idea of adding weight to the handle as Brent Swain suggested. That could really help!

Another idea is a "spring starter". They are bolt on replacements for your electric starter motor that have exotic springs in them. You wind them up, bolt them on, release a lever and they start your motor just like an electric starter. Halfway between a regular starter and a hand crank handle. I think they're a pretty cool idea myself. Haven't found a reseller of one in the US though.


MedSailor
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Last edited by MedSailor; 03-16-2012 at 10:30 PM.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2012
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Re: yanmar manual crank?

We have a 3GM 30 F. I did not think the fresh water cooled engines hand crank option could be used at all, as things seem to be in the way of the access of the crank receptacle. I have been told that only the salt water cooled 3 GM was set up for hand cranking.

Had an old Volvo in the past, with a huge fly wheel, which was fairly easy to crank with the decompression levers released. Not that crazy about Volvos but it was nice to know that you had that option if the starter went south.
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