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post #1 of Old 04-16-2009 Thread Starter
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plumbing hose and vented loop questions

I want to replace the hose on my head that goes between it and my lectrasan -- it's probably 20 years old and smells like a dead possum. I just checked online on westmarine's site and it looks like the cheapest 1.5" head hose is 10.49/foot?

West Marine: OdorSafe Plus Sanitation Hose Product Display

Is that really what I need??

On a semi relate noted, the discharge hose goes through a vented loop once it leaves the head, the loop is metal and the vent is a metal nut that screws down on it -- I didn't pay that close attention to it and went to the local west marine and bought a replacement valve for a vented loop and found it was a rubber duck bill type valve and of course that's not what I need. I took off the old one and tried cleaning it with warm water but it still squeaks and occasionally bubbles (yuck) -- should I just replace it with a new loop and forget about it? Or try and save 30 bucks and look elsewhere for a replacement valve for an ancient vented loop

Thanks as always!
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post #2 of Old 04-16-2009
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Unfortunately that expensive sanitation hose is really what you need. Not only will it hurt paying for it, but the stuff is impossible to work with. When you get to installing it, remember that a heat gun is your friend.

If the vented loop valve is failing and cleaning it doesn't make it work, you have to either find a replacement or replace the loop.
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post #3 of Old 04-16-2009
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Use a heat gun and KY lube.
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thoughts on this hose?

has anyone used the trident odor shield?

Trident Odor Shield Sanitation Hose
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Brian—

The OdorSafe hose in the first post is slightly better in terms of permeation resistance, but the trident is good hose and a bit more flexible IIRC than the OdorSafe stuff.

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vented loop

I see there are vented loops that you can run the vent to the outside via a tube which should also help with the smell situation, how does that work? Drill a hole in the deck? how would I keep water from coming in?
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Originally Posted by SteveInMD View Post
Use a heat gun and KY lube.
I had a terrible prom, too.

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I've had to change the head hose when AC power was not available and have found that soaking the end of the hose in really hot water for a few minutes usually does the trick, but you have to be careful you don't over do it. Leave it in the water too long and trying to get it on a barbed fitting is like pushing on a string.
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I find using a hair drier easier than the hot water soak in order to make the hose end supple and easy to work with. You might want to rethink the vented loop. These were most commonly used to prevent siphoning back into the head when through hulls were left open. Depending on your discharge cycle this might not be needed, The new plastic vented loop with the "duckbill" valve may be wothwhile and not more expensive than that same length in quality hose. Absolutely no cause to run a hose outside from the vent on the loop. This vent only lets air in,- no escaping smells are typical here if it's functioning right. 'take care and joy, Aythya crew
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Quote:
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You might want to rethink the vented loop. These were most commonly used to prevent siphoning back into the head when through hulls were left open. Depending on your discharge cycle this might not be needed, The new plastic vented loop with the "duckbill" valve may be wothwhile and not more expensive than that same length in quality hose. Absolutely no cause to run a hose outside from the vent on the loop. This vent only lets air in,- no escaping smells are typical here if it's functioning right. 'take care and joy, Aythya crew
Are these the vented loops you are referring to:

Vented Loop MF 840 / MF840

Vented Loop MF 842

I am about to finally install a head, probably the PHC. How high does the loop need to be above the water line to work properly? About 12 inches at heel?

If the discharge line is connected directly to a holding tank with no dirverter valve and no seacock, is the loop still necessary?
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