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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #1  
Old 04-19-2009
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mast boot

The stick is off and it is time to install a quality boot.
Is there a certain type that I should buy regardless of cost, or for that matter, anything I should avoid regardless of cost.
We have a keel stepped mast, centered with shims at the deckplate.
I do not intend to pull the stick again anytime soon so I want something that will solve the problem for a long time.
We had used self amalgamating tape last year and while I think it is a great interim fix I would still prefer to have a properly fitted seamless boot (assuming such a thing exists).
While we are at it, those little teak shims, the PO had them installed on the sides, the rigger I hired to install the mast last time, installed them fore-aft.
Said it was quite incorrect to have them on the sides.???.
Then again, his guys installed the forestay with the furler off by 180degrees, so maybe he isn't the guy to listen too. Somehow the shim thing doesn't feel right for something that takes so much load and can move around a fair bit.
I like Cam's idea of rope and silicone, the commercial version looks slick, if expensive.
The big question is, which road is the best one to take.

PS - We do not race, we are laid back cruisers.
Also, I am the sort who hates doing things twice.
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Old 04-19-2009
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I used Spar-Tite when I stepped the mast. All the leaks disappreared, and then I put that sealant tape on top of the mast to collar.......i2f
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Old 04-19-2009
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Spartite here too... but it's not leakproof by itself (at least not for us) I use a tape boot that seems to do the job..

As for wedges, they should be put where ever required to properly center (athwartship - measure it; don't simply assume the mast partners are truly centered) and properly locate the mast fore/aft for rake/bend.
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Old 04-19-2009
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I'd recommend the spar-tite solution and add the 4" mast boot tape to it to seal it.
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Old 04-19-2009
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Another vote for Spar-Tite and butyl or boot tape or inner tubing over it. If you want something prettier, have the ship's tailor run off a gold lamé boot cover. (G)
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Starting the tape from the bottom too.....i2f
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Thanks to all, looks like Spar-Tite is the product of choice.

Is there any benefit to installing a proper fitted boot, as opposed to the tape, I saw some for sale at the boat show but didn't have measurements with me at the time.

Faster - now you have done it.
What do you mean "don't assume the mast partners are centered" that was my very first assumption.
So what does one measure to, to ensure it is centered? Grab rails, toe-rails, if the partners aren't centered how can I be sure of anything else?

As far as the fore/aft, rake/bend goes, I have asked that question of 10 people and received 10 answers. What is a the right answer?

I had assumed that with a furler being a fixed length and the mast step being unmovable that it would be pretty hard to get it wrong.
Perhaps I am missing something?
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Spar-tite is absolutely the best thing since "sliced bread". After 4 years, the mast came off and when back on with no problem. (Don't forget to slather petroleum jelly on the partners). Relatively easy project.

Moe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjns View Post
Faster - now you have done it.
What do you mean "don't assume the mast partners are centered" that was my very first assumption.
So what does one measure to, to ensure it is centered? Grab rails, toe-rails, if the partners aren't centered how can I be sure of anything else?

As far as the fore/aft, rake/bend goes, I have asked that question of 10 people and received 10 answers. What is a the right answer?

I had assumed that with a furler being a fixed length and the mast step being unmovable that it would be pretty hard to get it wrong.
Perhaps I am missing something?
Sorry to get you bothered.. I have seen (and owned) a boat with a keel stepped mast on which the mast hole was not perfectly centered athwartships. We discovered this by measuring from the sides of the mast to the chainplates and to the deck edge. I would expect this situation to be rather rare, but it's a simple check to be sure.

As to the proper rake for the Ticon 30, best to try to talk to other owners for some guidelines, it's mostly something you know is wrong when you routinely have excess weather helm. or lee helm. I assume you've had the boat a while so if, as you say, the forestay/furler is not adjustable or has not been adjusted, then making sure the mast step goes back exactly where it was should get you back to your original settings. After that it's simply making sure the masthead is centered (again measure with a halyard to the toerails) and set the mast straight by adjusting the shrouds.

From the lines drawing I have of the T30 I see you've got a single spreader frac rig showing a rather straight mast with little rake. Again, if you've been happy with the way it's sailed so far then putting things back where they were should be fine!
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You could run a line from the bow chainplate to the stern chainplate (or chainplates) and then measure the distance to the sides of the mast partners from there. That would give you a pretty good idea if the mast partners are on center line or not. If your' chainplates aren't located on centerline, especially the bow one, you've got some other worries to deal with first.
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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