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post #1 of 9 Old 04-20-2009 Thread Starter
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Interprotect 2000 Question

I have sanded my hull and keel down as much as possible. Some areas still have VC-17, some showing through to a blue hull. Can I put Interprotect 2000 over the whole thing? Just cannot sand down anymore, I am simply not accomplishing anything!

Attached picture gives an idea of what I have on the keel, but you can see the hull above it and it is pretty representative of what I am dealing with. I guess it would be a bad idea to put VC 17 over the hull as it is????

As for the keel, I need to fair it then apply the Interprotect. Having never used interprotect, I have no idea if it is good for fairing small imperfections on the keel or if I need to use filler everywhere first.

Man, this project is starting to really grow....I had initially just hoped to sand off the old bottom paint and then apply VC17. Looks like that is not an option!
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post #2 of 9 Old 04-20-2009
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I doubt the hull is blue. Looks like another layer of bottom paint to me. I would use paint stripper on this. You can get paint stripper that's made for use on fiberglass at an auto parts store, but will usually have to special order it. It's also available from Interlux for about 4 times the money. With any stripper, make sure you read the label for fiberglass compatibility and soak times.

I wouldn't put interprotect over the old paint as interprotect is an epoxy, and epoxy will soften the old paint. The result will be a barrier coat that doesn't stick to the hull properly.

Fairing the keel is an important step in the whole process. Use the proper fillers, and a longboard for getting the shape right. Keep in mind that the shape of the keel is as important as the shape of the sails. Maybe more so, because you can always retrim the sails, the keel is a bit more work.


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post #3 of 9 Old 04-20-2009
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There is no point in applying Interprotect 2000E unless you're down to the gelcoat or bare fiberglass.

You can't fair using Interprotect, it isn't thick enough. It is a barrier coating, not a fairing compound.

I'd also agree that the blue is probably more bottom paint, a hard epoxy-based paint most likely.

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Hmm, so I guess my search leads me to an alternative to VC17 since there is no way I have time to get this all done and still get to sail this boat! Okay then, is anyone aware of a bottom paint that provides the low friction surface but does not require me to take the old surface right off? I have a fairly smooth hull, but to strip all of the gold coloured paint off would take years!

It is possible the stuff I have on there isn't even VC17, it is just a gold color hard paint, cannot be 100% positive and that is what is starting to get frustrating. Sure, I would like to use VC-17, but the time factor is unfortunate. Yes, I would like a perfect job, but it gets to a point where perfect is silly.

I only paid $400 for this boat, it is a Shark 24 , built in 1961, and bottom paint is only one of my many jobs to do before I get to sail it this year.

Has anyone had any experience with Petiti SR-21?
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post #5 of 9 Old 04-20-2009
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Let me ask some questions.

Why are you applying Interprotect 2000? Does your boat have blisters or some other problem? IF it's an older boat and has never had blisters, you probably don't need to apply Interprotect 2000 at all. (If you're going to strip the boat to the bare fiberglass, it's not a bad idea to apply it, but it would really be a precaution against a possible future problem, and not a remedy for an existing problem.)

How do you intend to use your boat? Casual club racing? Serious racing? Cruising? If you intend to use it for serious racing, then no amount of work will be too much. If you intend to use it for club racing, then the surface of the bottom and keel should be smooth, but they don't have to be perfect. If you're a cruiser, you might be satisfied with even less perfection.

As far as I can tell from the photo, it looks satisfactory for club racing or cruising. You can put a couple coats of good antifouling paint on it and go sailing. If you sail it well, you should be able to win some awards with it. If you want to race seriously, then finish stripping it to the bare fiberglass, fair the keel, and apply good racing paint.

I wouldn't suggest that you make a bigger job of it than is necessary for you to enjoy using the boat as you intend to use it.

I suggest a good quality ablative paint. It's expensive, but I have used it for club racing and have been competitive. If you only give it 2 coats to begin with and one coat per year thereafter, as I do, it doesn't accumulate, and you should never have to strip the bottom of the boat again. It makes annual bottom prep easy.

Last edited by Sailormon6; 04-20-2009 at 01:32 PM.
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post #6 of 9 Old 04-20-2009 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sailormon6 View Post
Let me ask some questions.

Why are you applying Interprotect 2000? Does your boat have blisters or some other problem? IF it's an older boat and has never had blisters, you probably don't need to apply Interprotect 2000 at all. (If you're going to strip the boat to the bare fiberglass, it's not a bad idea to apply it, but it would really be a precaution against a possible future problem, and not a remedy for an existing problem.)

How do you intend to use your boat? Casual club racing? Serious racing? Cruising? If you intend to use it for serious racing, then no amount of work will be too much. If you intend to use it for club racing, then the surface of the bottom and keel should be smooth, but they don't have to be perfect. If you're a cruiser, you might be satisfied with even less perfection.

As far as I can tell from the photo, it looks satisfactory for club racing or cruising. You can put a couple coats of good antifouling paint on it and go sailing. If you sail it well, you should be able to win some awards with it. If you want to race seriously, then finish stripping it to the bare fiberglass, fair the keel, and apply good racing paint.

I wouldn't suggest that you make a bigger job of it than is necessary for you to enjoy using the boat as you intend to use it.

I suggest a good quality ablative paint. It's expensive, but I have used it for club racing and have been competitive. If you only give it 2 coats to begin with and one coat per year thereafter, as I do, it doesn't accumulate, and you should never have to strip the bottom of the boat again. It makes annual bottom prep easy.
I was thinking about putting on Interprotect as the Interlux site sort of scares you away from doing anything else. Heck, I was initially thinking of just sanding off as much of the old paint as possible and rolling on VC-17. Hmm, maybe I am overthinking this a bit too much. The boat has no blisters, the hull is smooth as can be, just a few too many layers of hard bottom paint on it to get right down to the glass. Interlux makes it seem that VC-17 will not stick to anything other than 100 layers of Interprotect or VC Tar (Just kidding about the 100 layers, but you get my point).

I intend to use the boat for club racing initially, but I would like to race competitively in the next year or two. There is an active Shark 24 group in my area and I would liek to race with them eventually. Well, Sailormon, you are making me think and I should just realize that slapping on a few layers of VC-17 as is couldn't really hurt anything. Heck, I could probably fair up the few imperfections on the keel (really nothing to speak of) and sail it as is!

Okay, time to realize it is a 48 year old project boat, and that I have years to get her perfect! I guess I will just sand her as smooth as possible, splash on some VC-17, and be done with it.

Now for Painting the deck, painting the topsides, replacing the bulkheads, replacing all the hardware....
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post #7 of 9 Old 04-20-2009
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Using a good paint stripper is not an impossibly long job. I would bet you've already spent more time sanding it than it would have taken to strip it then do some touch up sanding. Using the stripper should only take about 4-6 hours.


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post #8 of 9 Old 04-20-2009
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silly questions... are you using a good air or electric sander? and are you using really course paper? we used 80 grit and I felt 50 would had worked better, the barrier coat is quite well bonded.

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It took manymany hours to wind up with a white bottom! I was enjoying the whiteness so much I felt guilty when we applied the 2000E!


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