Cutting and drilling Acrylic 1/4" sheet for windows. - Page 2 - SailNet Community
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #11 of 31 Old 04-22-2009 Thread Starter
I don't discuss my member
 
zz4gta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Chesapeake Bay
Posts: 2,556
Thanks: 0
Thanked 33 Times in 33 Posts
Rep Power: 10
 
Would 4200 work as a sealant? Or does it not strech enough?

Merit 25 # 764 "Audrey"
zz4gta is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #12 of 31 Old 04-22-2009 Thread Starter
I don't discuss my member
 
zz4gta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Chesapeake Bay
Posts: 2,556
Thanks: 0
Thanked 33 Times in 33 Posts
Rep Power: 10
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tommays View Post
One problem is that the saw will MELT the plastic as you cut SO you need to keep it a bit wet and work slow

Then you can use a sanding block to clean up the edges
Thanks for the tip tommays.

Merit 25 # 764 "Audrey"
zz4gta is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #13 of 31 Old 04-22-2009
Senior Member
 
jarcher's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Smithfield, RI
Posts: 1,008
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 9
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by zz4gta View Post
Would 4200 work as a sealant? Or does it not strech enough?
I'm actually on hold with 3M right now trying to get that very answer

3M's web site seems says 4200 is "medium strength for disassembly." I a trying to get the tensile strength and elasticity.
jarcher is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #14 of 31 Old 04-22-2009
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 387
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 10
 
jarcher - I have heard lots of people advise against old style silicon, for various reasons( such as temporary adhesion only, the niusance or removing it from gelcoat, in order to repaint, etc), but I have never read that it would harm the fiberglass / gelcoat. The "sexy windows" thread, in it's original link to Bob Norson's article, suggests the dow 791. I found Dow 795 locally, and was extremely happy with it. Others have suggested Sika 295"??, which sounds ver ygood as well.

ZZ- I would not use 4200. You want something that is able to stretch much more, as the acrylic has a high elongation rate with temoerature changes.
Northeaster is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #15 of 31 Old 04-22-2009
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 387
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 10
 
jarcher - I believe I used VHB 5952. It was black for sure, and I remember looking for one of the thicker tapes, as I put a good bead of Dow 759 a cm away, that went between the acrylic and the gelcoat (providing more adhesion, and a watertight seal), and spread out around the edges as well.

I wanted thick VHB tape, as the thinner it would be, the thinner the bead of Dow 795 would have to be. And you want it thicker, so it will elongate more.

Here's a link to the tape comparisons, and 3m store:

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...6EVs6E666666--

Shop 3M: 3M VHB Heavy Duty Mounting Tape 5952 Black, 3/4 in x 15 yd 45 mil
Northeaster is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #16 of 31 Old 04-22-2009
Senior Member
 
jarcher's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Smithfield, RI
Posts: 1,008
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 9
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Northeaster View Post
... but I have never read that it would harm the fiberglass / gelcoat.
I misspoke (mistyped). The issue with silicon on gel is that (according to the books and threads I have read) gel does get porous, and the silicon gets in there and is very hard to get out.

Once its there, nothing else, including more silicon, will stick. So if you ever need to rebed or replace your dead light, you may have trouble sealing it again.

Of course I never argue with results, and if it works well for people good deal.

3M just emailed me all the relevant data sheets and I am waiting for them to arrive. The customer support person suggested 4000UV is the best choice for a dead light but she said that you still need mechanical fasteners, which apparently cause other problems.

I'll post the info when I receive it, which should be any second...
jarcher is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #17 of 31 Old 04-22-2009
Just another Moderator
 
Faster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New Westminster, BC
Posts: 18,552
Thanks: 135
Thanked 476 Times in 450 Posts
Rep Power: 10
     
Though DC 795 is silicon based, it is not of the "vinegar smelling" variety, which, I believe, is the "problem" silicon to use on boats in general.

We have done several boats with it, and years later it still stands up OK and has not leaked.

Ron

1984 Fast/Nicholson 345 "FastForward"

".. there is much you could do at sea with common sense.. and very little you could do without it.."
Capt G E Ericson (from "The Cruel Sea" by Nicholas Monsarrat)
Faster is online now  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #18 of 31 Old 04-22-2009
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 387
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 10
 
there have been many threads about the difference between fastening and sealing (ie if you have mechanical fasteners - screws / bolts, then you can get away more with a sealant, from a gun or something like butyl tape - Mainsail / Halekai has lots of nice pics and comments in his posts )

I choose, as many are doing now, to use the VHB tape, as the mechanical fastener, instead of screws / bolts that are prone to leak. I added the Dow 795, which is both a strong adhesive (mechanical fastener / glazing silicon) as well as a "stretchable" sealer, that will stay adhered to both surfaces as they elongated or shrink at different rates.

I can tell you that I put in one portlight / deadlight by mistake, and had to remove it seconds later. The Dow 795 was obviously not cured yet, so the only adhesion was the VHB tape, which I had not even pressed on hard. It was all I could do to use my whole body weight to push it out. Now that they have cured, I doubt they could be pushed out - maybe after many hard kicks!!
Northeaster is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #19 of 31 Old 04-22-2009
Senior Member
 
jarcher's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Smithfield, RI
Posts: 1,008
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 9
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Faster View Post
Though DC 795 is silicon based, it is not of the "vinegar smelling" variety, which, I believe, is the "problem" silicon to use on boats in general.

We have done several boats with it, and years later it still stands up OK and has not leaked.
Here is the data sheet for Dow 795:

http://www.meiglobalsolutions.com/im...corning795.pdf

I should point out that Tony at Select Plastics highly recommends this stuff for adhering dead lights to gel coat, and recommends against using any mechanical fasteners.

If I read the data sheet correctly, the elasticity is 50% and the strength at 50% elasticity is 50psi. If that is all that is required to secure a dead light, then there are probably many other options in adhesives.

But I may have read it wrong, I didn't get much sleep last night and I am starting to fade

Still no email from 3M
jarcher is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #20 of 31 Old 04-22-2009
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 387
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 10
 
In my case, most of the adhesion is provided by the VHB tape. As the two surfaces expand / contact at different rates, the Dow 795 doesn't have to keep the windows on the boat, it just has to stay adhered to both surfaces, so it remains sealed. I know they expand alot, but in real life, I doubt if the 795 is being expanded to the full 50%, unless you have very long or wide deadlights.
Northeaster is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

By choosing to post the reply above you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.


User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Drilling and Filling Holes in Your Boat Sue & Larry Gear and Maintenance Articles 0 03-11-2003 08:00 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome