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post #1 of 24 Old 05-02-2009 Thread Starter
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Removing steering wheel

Anyone with advice on removing my steering wheel? It is obviously a friction fit with a key that is held in place by a little set screw of some sort. No typical nut holding the wheel on. The set screw is a hollow thing that does not match up with any of my allen wrenches. It seems to have an allen like shape, but none of them fits in it. I've got a full range of small allens, and none of them fit. Before I go pounding one of them down into the hole and maybe stripping the thing, I need help.

I've been looking online for a manual on wheels like this to see what sort of set screw it is and what sort of tool is needed to remove it. No luck so far.

I'm really hoping someone out there has a wheel like this and can tell me what sort of tool to use to remove this set screw. I've got it soaking in PB Blaster in the meantime and sure as heck don't want to strip it or screw it up because I can just see that leading to having to drill it out and replace the whole darn steering wheel. Not an option.

Thanks in advance.

Photobucket

Set screw on steering wheel

Aeolus
Gulf 32
Bainbridge Island, WA

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Last edited by bwindrope; 05-02-2009 at 11:30 PM.
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post #2 of 24 Old 05-02-2009
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Do you have both metric and imperial allen wrenches? If not it's likely needing the one you don't have.

Ron

1984 Fast/Nicholson 345 "FastForward"

".. there is much you could do at sea with common sense.. and very little you could do without it.."
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post #3 of 24 Old 05-02-2009 Thread Starter
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That's a good question. My wrenches are imperial. I wonder if it could be a metric allen...maybe a european wheel? Before I go out and buy the metric allens, does anyone know this type of wheel for certain? I'm afraid it takes that special wheel tool Number KY874759JxP that you can only get from one place in Maryland or something.

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Gulf 32
Bainbridge Island, WA

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post #4 of 24 Old 05-03-2009
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I doubt it's THAT non-standard a size... btw you might try using a Torx bit if you have one that's close - sometimes they'll bite when an allen key is rounded or not the right size.. These are the GM "six point star" type tool.

Something else to think about is getting one of those inexpensive "multi-bit" driver kits for drills and hex shaft quick change screwdrivers.. you'll end up with a whole range of types and sizes.. comes in real handy and is usually sold in a nice case that stows well on board.

Ron

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Last edited by Faster; 05-03-2009 at 12:25 AM.
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post #5 of 24 Old 05-03-2009
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I'd point out that saying what make/model wheel, if you know it, would help.

There's also the possibility that the thing is a drift pin... rather than a set screw...but that would be very unusual.

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post #6 of 24 Old 05-03-2009 Thread Starter
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Thanks sailingdog. I sure wish I knew the make and model. None of my Gulf 32 materials specify the wheel and though it is an Edson pedestal, the wheel is not, from what I can tell. I have gone through the Edson archives and found nothing like this wheel; all of theirs seem to use the nut attachment system. I welcome all suggestions of what make and model of wheel this is!

Set pin? I wondered about that but checked and found that the pin does not go all the way through the wheel hub and shaft, which I think it would need to do to be a set pin, no? Whatever it is, it terminates at the shaft, and so I conclude it must be removable somehow from above, and thus a set screw of some sort.

I'm encouraged by the recommendation to check metric allens and plan to try that ASAP. I'll report back when I find out. I'm a big fan of Occam's razor

Aeolus
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post #7 of 24 Old 05-03-2009
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Good luck... It probably is metric, if the imperial allen keys didn't fit. Be really careful not to strip it...

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Last edited by sailingdog; 05-03-2009 at 11:17 AM.
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post #8 of 24 Old 05-05-2009
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The set screw is metric. It screws into a groove machined in the shaft to prevent the wheel from pulling off unintentionally. If you have any questions as to whether it will brake loose, rotate the wheel so the screw is upright, make a little dam around it with childrens modeling clay, fill the dam with PB Blaster and let it sit for a few daze. With that, if you alternate between turning to tighten and loosen, it should break free. Patience is the rule. If the wheel won't come off easily, you can make an extractor with a couple of U-Bolts around the spokes at the hub and a short length of 2x2 wood passed through the U-Bolts and across the shaft. Drill a hole in the center of the wood block slightly smaller than a 1/4" lag bolt, flatten the face of the lag bolt where it will bear on the shaft, tighten the U-Bolts until the wood is flat against the shaft and then turn the lag bolt into the block. Works like a charm and won't damage the wheel

FWIW...

s/v HyLyte

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post #9 of 24 Old 05-05-2009
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Use a small propane torch and GENTLY heat the set screw and the area around it. Do not try to get it red-hot or even hot enough to discolor the stainless, just enough to get a bit of expansion/contraction movement between the hub and screw. Advice given above about patience is also very valuable.
DD

Doug
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post #10 of 24 Old 05-05-2009
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Another trick that is VERY sucessful is to heat the screw and then while hot..... add some oil to the area/threads and it just unscrews. This works very well in engine blocks with screw-in oil galley plugs. Most have pipe thread, and after a few dozen years just don't want to come out.
Good luck.
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