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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #11  
Old 05-06-2009
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Glad to help... I promise not to laugh, as long as snickering is allowed.

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Originally Posted by cosmoking View Post
Great, thanks for all the advice! I will post pics of my repair if you promise not to laugh As always on this boat the goal is primarily "better than it was before" and that's usually not hard to do

I'm in Seattle and we have really lovely weather now for boat work (not!) don't believe the blue sky in the top photo... The day after I pulled the windows we had a gale with torrential rain (that was Saturday) and another one yesterday. Now it's just rain, but there's a glimmer of hope for the weekend.
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  #12  
Old 05-07-2009
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Hey Cosmoking,

Check out Fiberlay Co. just south of the W. Seattle bridge on 99. I bought some layup and filler material last week when I covered old through hulls not used anymore. THe guys at Fiberlay are a wealth of knowledge. If you take your pics into them, they'll give you all the tips you need and point you in the right direction for the correct materials. I'm glad I went over there.
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  #13  
Old 05-07-2009
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I didn't think it rained in Seattle, just that the air gets a little more thick and moist at times.

Your dry side neighbor in Pasco


I too am waiting for the air to dry out here before I tackle my deck refurbishment!
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Old 05-07-2009
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I would consider pre-moulding a few layers from a matching curve on the other side

The challenge is always getting the first few layers to stay put while they cure. After that it is a matter of fairing and build-up. By pre-moulding a part, you solve some of the problem. The liner also complicates things (is it frp too?).

There are many ways to do this, and I am leaving steps out, many of which others mentioned above:
* tape a sheet of wax paper down tight to a matching curve, perhaps on the other side, or perhaps further forward. Best fit.
* build up a few layers of glass and mat, but not the full thickness.
* Take this over to the repair site and taper it and laminate it to the inside, between the liner and outside, then build up and fair from the outside. Similar procedure for liner, but probably keeping the hull and liner separate, so they can move. On the liner side, since it will be hard to fair an inside curve and because strength is less critical, I might be inclined to "fit" the moulded part, but still with a long taper and some glass on the back side.

There are a lot of variations to the aproach; after you start to cut the junk out, perhaps it will become obvious.

It does not look like any inherent weakness; it looks like an impact. You know this, I am sure.
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