Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Deale, MD
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I would consider pre-moulding a few layers from a matching curve on the other side
The challenge is always getting the first few layers to stay put while they cure. After that it is a matter of fairing and build-up. By pre-moulding a part, you solve some of the problem. The liner also complicates things (is it frp too?).
There are many ways to do this, and I am leaving steps out, many of which others mentioned above:
* tape a sheet of wax paper down tight to a matching curve, perhaps on the other side, or perhaps further forward. Best fit.
* build up a few layers of glass and mat, but not the full thickness.
* Take this over to the repair site and taper it and laminate it to the inside, between the liner and outside, then build up and fair from the outside. Similar procedure for liner, but probably keeping the hull and liner separate, so they can move. On the liner side, since it will be hard to fair an inside curve and because strength is less critical, I might be inclined to "fit" the moulded part, but still with a long taper and some glass on the back side.
There are a lot of variations to the aproach; after you start to cut the junk out, perhaps it will become obvious.
It does not look like any inherent weakness; it looks like an impact. You know this, I am sure.
(when asked how he reached the starting holds on a difficult rock climbing problem that clearly favored taller climbers - he was perhaps 5'5")
"Well, I just climb up to them."
by Joe Brown, English rock climber
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