Based on your previous thread
, I had thought you were still deciding between boats.
I hope you're getting your own survey done, by a surveyor of your own choosing... not doing so is penny-wise, pound foolish, and really stupid IMHO. A lot can change in 24 months. Well, since the offer has been accepted... hmm....
-Roller furling and new jib (has a traditional jib now, and I don't think that will work with a roller furling)
I would recommend using the old jib for a while to see if you really need the roller furling...
-Install head, holding tank and Y valve (has porta john now, Female passengers do not enjoy using them, and neither do I, espicially dumping them)
Get a good polyethylene holding tank. For heads, get either the Raritan PHII or the Lavac. Both are very well regarded and will last the lifetime of the boat. Both are available in a "household" sized bowl... which the better half will appreciate.
I would recommend that you plumb the head as follows, as it maximizes the flexibility of the system and minimizes the amount of plumbing and possible problems:
Head intake is t-eed into the head sink drain line below the waterline, provided the head sink drains below the water line. This gives you the option of flushing the sink with freshwater, by closing the seacock and filling the sink with water or plugging the sink, opening the seacock and using seawater to flush the head. This will simplify winterizing the head and minimize smells aboard by allowing you to flush the head with fresh water before leaving it for a while, as one major cause of boat stench is the saltwater organisms in the head line dying while the boat is sitting unused.
Head discharge goes directly into the holding tank. The holding tank pumpout line goes to a diverter valve. One side of the diverter valve goes to a diaphragm pump and then to a seacock and through-hull. The other side goes to the deck pumpout fitting. This allows you to either pumpout the holding tank via a pumpout station or dump the contents manually while out past the three-mile limit. While you could do without the diverter valve, the diverter valve serves to protect the diaphragm pump in case you've left the seacock open and go to use the deck pumpout fitting.
-Install sprayer for rinse shower in bathroom
Make sure you setup the head with waterproof/watertight storage for important things, like toilet paper....
-Install sprayer w/ some type of pump (electric or manual) for fresh water rinse of Dive gear somewhere in stern section
Pretty easy to do with a standard washdown pump and cockpit shower setup. Might not even need a separate pump if you plumb the cockpit shower off the boat's main pressure fresh water system.
-Chart GPS with external antenna
-Backup GPS (handheld probably)
Garmin 32xx series is good, and relatively affordable and comes with the US coastal charts pre-loaded. GPSMap 76Cx if you can find one... as good backup...otherwise, might consider the Colorado 400.
-AM/FM Radio + indoor and outdoor speakers
If properly installed in the cabin, no need for a marine version of stereo. Highly recommend you get one that has decent iPod controls and a direct iPod interface, since iPods allow you to carry a lot of music in a very small space. Alpine and Sony make good units. IIRC, the marine wired remotes can be used on their automotive units.
As for speakers, look at Cam's stereo thread for suggestions.
-deck lights on the mast
Go with LED navigation lights while you're at it...
-dodger and awning
Do you mean dodger and bimini? Awnings can rarely be used under sail...biminis are used under sail.
-solar charger for the batteries (there will be 3 deep cycle batteries)
Size the batteries and panels together... especially, if this is going to be the primary battery charging system. Read the primer on Solar Power on Boats
I wrote. I highly recommend getting an MPPT-type solar charge controller.
-main battery selector switch
-additinal electricial wireing (see lines above and below this one)
Order the crimping tool, adhesive lined heat shrink terminals and wiring from sailorsolutions.com.
You can also check out genuinedealz.com
about the wiring.
-perminantly installed 110v power inverter for light duty electricial devices
Define light duty... if you're talking about less than 200 watts go with cigarette lighter-based inverter... it's simpler to install, and a lot cheaper to install or replace.
-mounts for 4-6 SCUBA tanks once I determine where they will fit without being too badly in the way
Probably want to split these, so that half are to starboard and the other half to port...and put them amidships, to keep the weight out of the ends of the boat.