Overheating Westerbeake - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 14 Old 05-12-2009 Thread Starter
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I feel like the problem is on the raw water side, a friend of mine at the marina who is a very good mechanic feels it is on the heat exchanger side. After the engine overheats the relief valve at the hot water heater lets go and I think that is why he feels it is on that side. When I bought the boat in 07 the heat exchanger was hooked back to itself with no fluid in it and did not get hot. I fixed that when I put the new hot water heater in. I checked the thru hull, the strainer and have raw water flow when the cover is off the pump. The impeller is turning, I do not have good water flow out of the exhaust and that is where I left off. I have not done anything with the heat exchanger yet. I appreciate the advice as I am trying to determine were to go next.

Hal

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post #12 of 14 Old 05-12-2009
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I have a Perkins 4-108 and some years ago experienced overheating of the engine. I had good raw water flow and the thermostat was working properly. Even when removing the heat exchanger there was no blockage in the tubes. However I did clean out the tubes with muric acid and then rodded them, reinstalled it and engine ran cooler. It was just the low efficiency of the heat transfer causing the problem. One other comment is that water is a better heat transfer media than 100% anti freeze so make sure that you have a 50-50 mix.
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post #13 of 14 Old 05-12-2009 Thread Starter
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I got back to the boat and picked up the manuel. It looks like if I disconnect the raw water lines on either side of the heat exchanger that should eliminate all but the exhaust elbow as a problem. I will also take the advise to change out the zinc and clean the exchanger while I am at it. Thanks again to everyone. This old farm boy is used to working on tractors and trucks but still learning all the little ins and outs of the boat engine.

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post #14 of 14 Old 05-12-2009
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Overheating Westerbeke

I'm inclined to agree with your mechanic friend.

When my old, old, old Columbia had a raw water cooled Atomic 4 (one of the three that it did) I had to bypass the water heater coil from the engine because the salt water ate the aluminum circuit.

When I repowered with diesel, the Universal's dimensions required repositioning the new water heater that is served by the coolant system of the engine.

It obviously works best when the hot water tank is full ( providing, if you will, a larger heat exchanger in addition to the engine's three inch mounted exchanger.) However, that requires leaving the demand water pump on to keep the water heater full of water when under way. Sometimes the fresh water supply in the main tank is less than enough to keep the water heater full and consequently, it doesn't cool the engine circuit as much.I also don't like to leave the fresh water system "charged" with the pump when underway, since a leak or broken hose will drain the tanks into the bilge.

The mechanic who installed the 25XP was adamant that plumbing in the water heater required a extra coolant tank and overflow recovery system above the level of the water heater to increase the coolants efficiency.

It generally runs 165 degrees F if everything is fine. As I noted before, restriction in the raw water inlet and failure to recover the overflow current would increase the temperature to 190. Not catastrophic, but indicative of a problem.

Check the engine to water heater circuit and make sure the tank coil isn't the problem.If there's not enough water in the tank, the air will heat much faster than water.
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