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post #1 of 10 Old 05-20-2009 Thread Starter
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Traveler issues II

The traveler on my Yankee 30 was beefed up by a PO. In fact, he fortified several things on a boat that was already pretty stout. While I'm not aware of any Yankee travelers failing, I kind of agree with him on this one. The stock traveler track, bridges a tower on each end, a stainless brace, and is bolted into a metal plate embedded in the Sea Hood (see the picture, and imagine the wooden bridge removed). The PO added a 2" tall wooden bridge that spans and is connected to the previously mentioned items. The track now sits on top of this bridge. I am currently working on the Sea Hood, and want to sail the boat without the Hood (see the picture, and imagine the Sea Hood removed). I think this arrangement is plenty strong, as I'm not sure that bolting the track to the Hood was doing that much to begin with. Thoughts?
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post #2 of 10 Old 05-20-2009
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I would probably come in with some concrete reinforcing and couple more steel beams
Seriously, since i have never seen one attached to the hood i can't see that it is doing that much for it unless there are other issues
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post #3 of 10 Old 05-20-2009
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I mean this in the nicest way possible, that looks hidious.

Look into harken's site, you can change out the track to bridge a gap like that. Even if it's a little long, just put a 2x4 under it to help support it. But I'd definitely streamline that thing. You're probably losing knot of speed due to the windage alone!

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post #4 of 10 Old 05-20-2009 Thread Starter
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You sayin my travelers ugly?

Quote:
Originally Posted by zz4gta View Post
I mean this in the nicest way possible, that looks hidious.

Look into harken's site, you can change out the track to bridge a gap like that. Even if it's a little long, just put a 2x4 under it to help support it. But I'd definitely streamline that thing. You're probably losing knot of speed due to the windage alone!
Thanks for the reply, (and I mean this in the nicest way possible) but what does it mean in English? I understand that you don't like the way the traveler looks and think it bocks air, but beyond that, you lost me! The traveler and track ARE Harken. Even if whats "a little long" (the span?)? I'm not sure if you understand, but there is a companion way hatch that slides underneath the traveler. The wooden bridge is only 2" high, so replacing it horizontally with a "2X4" to support the track would reduce the height by only half an inch when placed flat (weak), and would increase the height by a inch and a half placed on edge (the stronger dimension). Traveler arrangements like this are fairly common. In fact, I have Blue Water boats on both sides of my boat that have similar traveler set ups. One was constructed using an I beam (you think mine is ugly and creates windage?!). Maybe it's a difference of an off shore boat and a day sailor/racer. You're probably not so concerned about how the traveler looks or how much wind it's blocking when your getting knocked down a thousand miles from help! I'm certainly not concerned about the way it looks. Just want it do be strong enough.

Last edited by L124C; 05-20-2009 at 02:24 PM.
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post #5 of 10 Old 05-20-2009
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My guess is that zz4gta meant that you could getaway with a track alone without all the additional reincorcement. My guess is that a track with a slight bend in it, then bolted to the two outer blocks would be more than adequate. A question: Why do you want to remove the seahood (garage?) that would be really nice offshore in nasty weather.

Another question, how big is your mainsail actually, the whole setup looks waaay beefier than anything needed for a 30 footer.
While I like oversized, I'm not a fan of way to strong, as that just adds weight.
Hope this helps
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post #6 of 10 Old 05-20-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JomsViking View Post
My guess is that zz4gta meant that you could getaway with a track alone without all the additional reincorcement. My guess is that a track with a slight bend in it, then bolted to the two outer blocks would be more than adequate. A question: Why do you want to remove the seahood (garage?) that would be really nice offshore in nasty weather.

Another question, how big is your mainsail actually, the whole setup looks waaay beefier than anything needed for a 30 footer.
While I like oversized, I'm not a fan of way to strong, as that just adds weight.
Hope this helps
L124C, I was trying to say what Joms said, and I admit he said it much more clear than I did. I must not be grasping what's going on in the picture. How exactly does the seahood add strength to this set up if its not bolted to it? Doesn't the seahood slide under the traveler? If that's the case, removing the seahood wouldn't make it any weaker.

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post #7 of 10 Old 05-20-2009
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I think you've got an MKIII, so it's a taller rig. I have a tall rig MKII too (Justin, AKA Winterhawk) and I've got the longer boom, 11'6". My traveler is bone stock and worked for offshore racing. Someone might have had some flex issues in the past. Do you see and cracks on the traveler itself that might suggest that? Any bends or kinks?

If I were rebuilding, I'd laminate up some nice wood and varnish it. I'd keep it lower profile than what you have, but only cause it will look better. But I would mimic what the PO did, they did it with some reason I hope.
I'd be keeping or at least making a new seahood, but I just like to keep things dry below. If you go w/o I don't think you'll be making a wrong decision in terms of the traveler strength.

As a note, I don't have a seahood (yet) and my traveler is a similar shape, but I don't have the glass pedestals. My whole traveler set up is metal even the pedestals. Sorry, no pics of it, but I'll snap one if I remember this weekend.


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post #8 of 10 Old 05-20-2009 Thread Starter
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Thanks for your reply.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JomsViking View Post
My guess is that zz4gta meant that you could getaway with a track alone without all the additional reinforcement. My guess is that a track with a slight bend in it, then bolted to the two outer blocks would be more than adequate.

A: Don't think the track alone would withstand the force, given the span. It's predrilled with counter sunk holes 4" on center for it's entire length. I think Harken believes it should be attached to something. When I've seen the same track mounted further aft in the cockpit, it's bolted throughout.

A question: Why do you want to remove the seahood (garage?) that would be really nice offshore in nasty weather.

A:The hood was rubbing the hatch (covered in another post). I'm repairing it but want to sail in the meantime. Based on the responses I received, it seems like the wood bridge was probably over kill, and Yankee had it right to begin with. In any case, now that I have the bridge (and couldn't care less that it's "hideous" looking), I would like the traveler and hood to be independent of each other. Give the responses, this doesn't seem to be a problem.

Another question, how big is your mainsail actually, the whole setup looks waaay beefier than anything needed for a 30 footer.
While I like oversized, I'm not a fan of way to strong, as that just adds weight.

A: As I mentioned in my previous post, several 30' boats near me have even stouter traveler arrangements. You should see the chainlplates on my boat! It was built when the builders were not really sure how much fiberglass could take. I'm not trying to win any races, and the boat is almost 40 years old, so the overbuild provides some assurance for me.

Hope this helps

Last edited by L124C; 05-20-2009 at 04:23 PM.
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post #9 of 10 Old 05-20-2009
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Specs, skinny main, large genoa (IOR)
Sail Plan
P (mainsail) 37.4
E (mainsail) 11.3
I (headsail) 42.5
J (headsail) 12.8
Sail Area 481.5 sq. ft.
LOA 30’ 0˝ “
LWL 25’ 0”
Beam 9’ 0”
Draft 5’ 6”
Displacement 10,000 lbs
Ballast 4,850 lbs external lead


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Quote:
Originally Posted by WesterlyPageant View Post
I think you've got an MKIII, so it's a taller rig. I have a tall rig MKII too (Justin, AKA Winterhawk) and I've got the longer boom, 11'6". My traveler is bone stock and worked for offshore racing. Someone might have had some flex issues in the past. Do you see and cracks on the traveler itself that might suggest that? Any bends or kinks?

If I were rebuilding, I'd laminate up some nice wood and varnish it. I'd keep it lower profile than what you have, but only cause it will look better. But I would mimic what the PO did, they did it with some reason I hope.
I'd be keeping or at least making a new seahood, but I just like to keep things dry below. If you go w/o I don't think you'll be making a wrong decision in terms of the traveler strength.

As a note, I don't have a seahood (yet) and my traveler is a similar shape, but I don't have the glass pedestals. My whole traveler set up is metal even the pedestals. Sorry, no pics of it, but I'll snap one if I remember this weekend.
No, I've got a MKI (perfect for SF bay!). I think a PO was just paranoid. For example, the jib sheet winches are Lewmar 40, he had fenders that you could use on a 50' boat, etc, etc,. Thought the seahood and glass towers were stock on Yankees. Another Yankee in my Marina apparently has the stock setup and has the towers and a hood. Wonder why yours doesn't! Interesting. My Yankee would have a very wet salon in big seas without a hood!
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