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post #11 of 16 Old 05-27-2009
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Despite the fact your water temp appeared to be low at the time of the incident it sounds like the engine may have overheated and eventually seized. The fact that it started and appeared to run fine later almost verifies this. I would check the lift pump for sure and the indicating system to ensure all is well.

Overheating and lockup is never good for an engine but if it already has a lot of hours on it, this incident may not have as much of a destructive effect as if the engine were new. A mechanic with a borescope should be able inspect the cylinder walls and combustion chamber to ensure the valves are okay. I don't think the incident involved any of the crank or rod bearings but it sure puts additional wear on them during the overheat and seize phase. The pistons and rings take the real hit so have the mechanic do a compression check also.

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post #12 of 16 Old 05-27-2009
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jongoose----a good way to check for bearing damage is to saw off the top of the oil filter element if it is a spin on. pullout the pleated paper & inpect it for metal particles. you can do the same for an element in a filter can.

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post #13 of 16 Old 05-27-2009
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Originally Posted by jongoose View Post
John - I have not checked the transmission fluids yet...
That would be my next stop. Process of elimination, etc.


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post #14 of 16 Old 05-27-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captbillc View Post
jongoose----a good way to check for bearing damage is to saw off the top of the oil filter element if it is a spin on. pullout the pleated paper & inpect it for metal particles. you can do the same for an element in a filter can.
Remove the top using tin snips. A hacksaw will create metal particles which go everywhere.

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post #15 of 16 Old 05-27-2009
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Update
Yesterday after work I went back to the boat and checked the oil while I picked up the manual for further study. The oil level was fine and I thought I would turn the engine over a few times to see if I could hear the noise again. The engine started right up to my surprise and for the few minutes I ran it sounded normal. I even put it in forward and reverse and all seemed normal. Now I am really stumped?????????
Hi i had this problem e few years ago
i lifted moter up undit the sump and we found bit of steel broken of from oil pump wat jamed between piston rod and came loose drop in bottom of sump
damage was not bad we removed this bit replaced mecanical oil pump changed oil and filter.
Refited moter back and restarted moter with our fingers crossed
moter is been running fine for the last 3 years.
It pays to remove sump of your moter and in spect>
hope this wil be the case.
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post #16 of 16 Old 06-01-2009 Thread Starter
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Update

On Saturday I was able to locate a coolant leak that has been bothering me. The injector lines had rubbed a hole in the aluminum tube from the fresh water pump to the exchanger. I ordered new parts but decided to cut out the bad spot and replace it with a piece of heater hose until the parts come in. In the process of replacing the tube I noticed that the leak was dripping down on one of the connections on the starter selanoid. At this point I had run the engine and it had stopped on me just as it had out in the bay on Memorial Day. The connector was shot so I replaced it. I tried the engine again and it started right up but I could still hear the valves pinging and expected it to stop again. The engine did not stop and the pinging went away and I ran the engien at 1800 rpm under load in the slip for 1.5 hrs and it ran better than it has since I bought the boat two years ago. The bad connection seems to have been connected to the fuel pump and the starter and as the contact got worse so did the problems. Go Figure!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[/SIGPIC]"Jon Goose"
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