Yanmar 2QM15 - Changing the Fuel Filter - SailNet Community

   Search Sailnet:

 forums  store  


Quick Menu
Forums           
Articles          
Galleries        
Boat Reviews  
Classifieds     
Search SailNet 
Boat Search (new)

Shop the
SailNet Store
Anchor Locker
Boatbuilding & Repair
Charts
Clothing
Electrical
Electronics
Engine
Hatches and Portlights
Interior And Galley
Maintenance
Marine Electronics
Navigation
Other Items
Plumbing and Pumps
Rigging
Safety
Sailing Hardware
Trailer & Watersports
Clearance Items

Advertise Here






Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
 Not a Member? 
  #1  
Old 05-27-2009
backcreeksailor's Avatar
1979 C&C 30 Mk I - 2QM15
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Annapolis, Maryland
Posts: 172
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 6
backcreeksailor is on a distinguished road
Question Yanmar 2QM15 - Changing the Fuel Filter

This looks simple enough, unscrew the bell, change out the filter, screw it back on. But I've already had a couple 5 minute jobs turn into 5 hour jobs, (e.g. the frozen zinc I'm still trying to remove...). So...

When I unscrew the bell that houses the filter, how much diesel fuel is likely to spill out? And what's the best way to contain it? (I don't want to reintroduce the diesel smell that took me a month to get rid of after the first got the boat).

Am I going to have to bleed the system after I do this, or will just cranking it work out any air in the system?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #2  
Old 05-27-2009
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 387
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 8
Northeaster is on a distinguished road
I would put a couple of rags underneath, to catch the spills, and have a small ice cream container to pour the rest in. Will be 1/4 - 1/2 cup or so.

When you put are putting the new filter on, fill it up near the top, so you don't have to prime as long afterwards. It takes a while to fill the whole space using the manual pump.

There are lots of posts on priming, but if the manual pump doesn't feel like its doing anything, you usually can turn the crank by hand, 1/2 turn or 1 turn and then retry - as the pump only works with the crank / camshaft on a certain stroke.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #3  
Old 05-27-2009
Gary M's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sarnia ON
Posts: 675
Thanks: 3
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Rep Power: 9
Gary M is on a distinguished road
The other trick for bleeding air that I picked up here is to put an outboard style priming pump in the fuel line right where it comes out of the tank.

Then there is no messing around with the manual pump that I never seem to get to work. Just hook everything back up and open the vent on the first filter and pump till diesel comes out then move on to the second filter, works great.

Gary
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #4  
Old 05-27-2009
backcreeksailor's Avatar
1979 C&C 30 Mk I - 2QM15
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Annapolis, Maryland
Posts: 172
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 6
backcreeksailor is on a distinguished road
Ok... I see a bleeder bolt at the top of the filter case. But I'm not seeing anything listed in the service manual diagrams that's described as a "manual pump". Where is this located?

After installing the filter, will just cranking the engine with the starter long enough pump out the air? Or will it remained trapped in the lines until I bleed them?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #5  
Old 05-27-2009
CrazyRu's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 452
Thanks: 2
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 8
CrazyRu is on a distinguished road
Fuel pump on the engine has manual level, to pump fuel up manually. It is hard to get to on Yanmar 2QM15. Fuel pump located under fuel filter, the filter’s input fuel line starts at fuel pump, it is small round shaped thingy. There is a level under the pump. You need to pump it, make sure you bring it all way up on every stroke.
2QM15 require to bleed
1. Fuel filter(screw on top). There is disposable plastic washer under it, you need to replace it frequently
2. Fuel return lines on injectors, start with rear one. There are cooper crushing washers, need to be replaced when crashed
3. Fuel lines at injectors
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #6  
Old 05-27-2009
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 387
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 8
Northeaster is on a distinguished road
Gary - I have thought about putting an outboard squeeze bulb on, before the racor. However, my concern was that my current fuel lines, from tank to racor, and racor to manual fuel pump, have nice "professional" fittings terminating them. I did not wasnt to cut them off, to spice in an outboard type hose with hose clamps, for example. I was afraid of having air leaks.

How did you connect the squeeze bulb? Can you get them with "standard" fittings to connect to the existing fuel line?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #7  
Old 05-27-2009
billangiep's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Florida Gulf Coast
Posts: 295
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 12
billangiep is on a distinguished road
I also use the primer bulb for bleeding. They can be purchase with different size hose barbs.
I believe the little Yanmar filter is a five micron, I use a two micron in the Racor that way I figure I never have to mess with changing the Yanmar filter?
Bill,
__________________
You start sailing with a bag full of luck and an empty bag of experience. The idea is to fill the bag of experience before you empty the bag of luck.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #8  
Old 05-27-2009
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 239
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 7
LittleWingCA is on a distinguished road
My engine mechanic used a motorized pump that he used to suck the oil out of the drip pan. He added a small metal tube insert on the hose end, and attached it to the return hose after the injectors, that also goes back into the top of the fuel filter housing instead of the tank on my 2QM15. When he applied the suction, the fuel was pulled from the tank, through the Racor filter, past the mechanical pump on the engine, into the fuel filter housing, into the injector line, and when some came into the waste oil bucket, he shut the pump down, and re-attached the return hose to the fuel filter housing. Thus priming the entire system. Worked really well. My engine started up on the first try. You could do the same thing with a hand pump as well.
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

LittleWingCA
1980 Pacific Seacraft Orion 27
Sailing Grounds: Southern California
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #9  
Old 05-28-2009
Gary M's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sarnia ON
Posts: 675
Thanks: 3
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Rep Power: 9
Gary M is on a distinguished road
I just used the little SS hose clamps to install the primer bulb. Bill you should use a 10 or 20 micron pirmary filter before your Yanmar secondary filter. The Yanmar secondary filter should be replaced at least yearly. Even water can cause it to break down so.
With the priming bulb it is dead easy to replace both of them and then get the engine running.

Gary
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #10  
Old 05-28-2009
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 551
Thanks: 3
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Rep Power: 8
SteveInMD is on a distinguished road
I disagree with a few things above. Do not pre-fill filters more than half way. You can end up with an air slug that gets forces into the high pressure side of the fuel system. If you do that you will have to bleed to air at the injectors as well. If you properly bleed the low pressure system you don't have to bleed the air from the high pressure side during a filter change.

The squeeze bulb isn't necessary at all. The manual lever on the lift pump actually pumps more than you would think based on feel. I don't pre-fill my filters at all and it really doesn't take that much pumping to fill the Racor primary and the engine mounted secondary filter.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

By choosing to post the reply above you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

 
Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may post attachments
You may edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Bleeding your Yanmar Engine artbyjody Gear & Maintenance 38 06-20-2014 03:34 PM
Fuel filter replacement on Yanmar 3GM30F gsyversen Gear & Maintenance 7 06-13-2008 03:18 AM
Diesel Fuel Essentials Tom Wood Gear and Maintenance Articles 0 03-22-2004 08:00 PM
Diesel Fuel Essentials Tom Wood Her Sailnet Articles 0 03-22-2004 08:00 PM
Yanmar 2QM15 Bleeding Fuel System - HELP shipley Gear & Maintenance 5 03-11-2002 08:21 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:01 PM.

Add to My Yahoo!         
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1
(c) Marine.com LLC 2000-2012

The SailNet.com store is owned and operated by a company independent of the SailNet.com forum. You are now leaving the SailNet forum. Click OK to continue or Cancel to return to the SailNet forum.