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post #1 of 4 Old 11-13-2002 Thread Starter
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Installing a Brass keel shoe

I recently had a brass keel shoe re-installed which supports the bottom end of my rudder, which has a similar shoe. two un-threaded brass rods were used to secure the shoe to the keel.They were hamered into a pre-drilled hole which went in one side of the shoe through the keel and exited the opposite side of the shoe. Prior to hammering them in the holes were filled with silkaflex. Is there a chance thes pins could work themselvews out over time? It just doesnt seem like there is much holding them in place other than the silkaflex. Is this the proper way to install un-threaded brass pins? If anyone can answer my longwinded question it would be great.
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post #2 of 4 Old 11-13-2002
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Installing a Brass keel shoe

Joshuadawn,
I would also be worried about this.
These brass rods will probably Work their way loose and I think it could happen in a short period of time.
Could they use brass lag bolts? Or better yet, they could have used slotted head tappered bolts and tapped the holes on one side of the shoe? This is the way I''ve seen it done.

Dennis
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post #3 of 4 Old 11-13-2002
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Installing a Brass keel shoe

Drifts are a common fastener for holding large timbers together, and make sense in this application. Chappelle mentions them extensively, as do the Pardeys. Sometimes the ends are peened over if they project, essentially turning them into huge rivets. They are likely what was used originally, and if they''re long enough to hold well, the yard probably saw no reason to change. They are cheaper than bolts, less likely to break in driving than carriage bolts, and because they don''t have threads, don''t have little channels for water (and rot) to get in. A little like metal trunnels, and very traditional. Ask the guys who did the work.
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post #4 of 4 Old 11-13-2002
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Installing a Brass keel shoe

While I agree with Paul that Drifts are a traditional fastening, they are used where there is a lot of bearing such as might occur in edge fastening a wooden rudder or tieing dead wood together. They were often peened over a washer at the ends. Where drifts were used with less bearing they were often splayed at an angle so that the drift pins would need to be withdrawn in total to allow the parts to separate.

There are a number of problems with what you discribe. First, brass is a very poor choice for this application. Brass is very electrolytically active and not especially strong. Silicone Bronze or everdur bronze would have been a much better choice. The holes in both sides of the the bronze shoe should have been countersunk and bronze rods used. The Bronze rods should have been peened over on each end to form flush rivet heads. This is a very traditional way to install a shoe.

Jeff
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