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  #1  
Old 06-08-2009
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Rustoleum on keel -- Any Reason Why Not??

I applied Interlux 2000e to a EXTREMELY THOROUGHLY de-rusted section and rust is already bleeding through after a few weeks on the hard. That approach doesn't seem to work. Granted it was just one coat right now, but it doesn't get much wetness there under the boat while she's on land.

Any issues with using Rustoleum on an iron keel. Specifically, the hardware store manager recommended "Rust Restorer". It goes on white and dries black.

Is there any problem using Rust Restorer?
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Last edited by Bene505; 06-08-2009 at 04:53 PM.
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Old 06-08-2009
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Most paint is NOT under-water happy

It has rained so MUCH ? and clean iron will rust in salt-air in about 15 minutes
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Old 06-08-2009
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The rust restorer works. Several companies make versions of it. It chemically bonds with the rust and can then be painted or faired with fairing compound before applying epoxy, bottom coat, etc. If your coverage is complete, you will have no more rust issues unless you ding the keel, thus compromising the integrity of the barrier.
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Old 06-08-2009
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Skip the Rustoleum..if you are getting boat dvice at the local hardware store...that's a big mistake, even the Sailnet advice is better than a hardware store.

Strip the keel completely, finishing with a wire wheel that leaves it completely bright white. Immediately brush on a coat of West epoxy. Following instructions, apply at least four more coats. Fill and fair with epoxy/microballons to your hearts content. Apply bottm paint. I you do the prep properly, you will never need to do it again.

Or at least it worked on my Beneteau...
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Old 06-08-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingfool View Post
...even the Sailnet advice is better than a hardware store.
you forgot, "sometimes."
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Old 06-08-2009
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Note that I did an INCREDIBLY good job of taking all rust of the front of the keel. I took golf ball sized chunks out with a grinder. We are talking incredible here. I took off more keel than the rust will do in 20 years. And then I got rust showing through the 2-part barrier coat.

I simply can't get 100% of the rust out without sandblasting, and that isn't going to happen this year. And sandblasting still would not have gotten those rusty areas that were 1/4 inch into the keel and around corners within the keel itself

So I'm a little put off on the 2-part epoxy methods. I clearly need something that goes over the not-completely rust-free, but still shiny metal over 98% of the surface.

I actualy put the Rust Restorer on yesterday. I can wire brush it off if needed, but at least it isn't sitting on the hard rusting right now. IN fact, I'm htinking of wire brushing it all off except for inside the pits and then using the Interlux method of 2-part Yellow metal etcher, followed by barrier coat.

There has got to be a better way. If Barrier coat (Interlux 2000e) sticks to the Rust Restorer, then that might be the best solution.

Any help greatly appreciated.
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Old 06-08-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saildork View Post
The rust restorer works. Several companies make versions of it. It chemically bonds with the rust and can then be painted or faired with fairing compound before applying epoxy, bottom coat, etc. If your coverage is complete, you will have no more rust issues unless you ding the keel, thus compromising the integrity of the barrier.
saildork,

Have you tried this method? How think did you put on the Rust Restorer?

Regards
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Old 06-08-2009
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Bene,
I seem to recall a certain someone, whose name rhymes with Sway, advising you to apply Ospho to that keel when stripped. Ospho is the commercial grade "rust restorer" containing phosphoric acid and you'll recognize it by it's mildew green color. It dries black after it has neutralized the rust.

The advise above, about the application of epoxy immediately after stripping is correct, particularly in a humid, salt air environment. Rust never sleeps, heck, it never even cat-naps!
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I am redoing the cast iron keel on my Etap 26 right now. I had a prior experinece with a Catalina 22 keel where the epoxy resin wouldn't cure because of internal moisture in the iron. I would up heating it for a week, then it cured.

This time I got a guy to sand blast the keel. Of course he didn't call me about doing it until it was done, and it started pouring rain. So even though it was indoors it rusted all to hell overnight. I heated the whole 1500 lb keel up to about 300 degrees using a propane weed burner with 500,000 BTUs. It took about 3 hours to heat up, and it was supposed get a light sandblast again, but it rained some more. So I am hoping it gets blasted again tomorrow, and I'll reheat it, then paint while it is still nice and warm. Hopefully that will do the trick.
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If you're using regular epoxy, I think any steel primer would be better. We used a variety of primers in the USCG. I don't think any of them were epoxy. Of course, that was 22 years ago.
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