Better way to strip RG-8 / RG 213? - SailNet Community
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 06-10-2009 Thread Starter
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Better way to strip RG-8 / RG 213?

I was making up a bunch of cables with PL-259 connectors and it occurred to me that there MUST be a spiffy way to pull the polyethylene or whatever insulation off the center conductor. I've been doing this for a long, long time and it remains the one aspect of the job that drives me nuts.
Any advice??
Howard Keiper
Berkeley
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post #2 of 7 Old 06-10-2009
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*shrug* I always just ran a knife around it and pulled it off. Never found it a problem.

Jim
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post #3 of 7 Old 06-10-2009
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They make these pretty nice Coax cable stripping tools... but using a knife is pretty good too, with a bit of practice.

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post #4 of 7 Old 06-11-2009
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The nice thing about the dedicated coax strippers is that they always strip the right amount at each level and never nick the centre conductor. Not cheap but not expensive - $20 even from amazon.com. Handy to have around.

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post #5 of 7 Old 06-11-2009
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Yeah, but....

.....trouble with at least some of the dedicated coax strippers (like the one I have and never use) is that they don't strip off the right amount in the right places.

Here's a proven way to do RG-8/213/214, etc.

1. Strip off a goodly amount -- about 2" -- of the outer covering, leaving the shield exposed.

2. With a soldering iron, carefully tin the braid all around for an inch or so from the inner end, i.e., back to where the outer covering is cut.

3. Using a good, sharp tubing cutter -- like you use for copper tubing -- cut thru the tinning and the shield (or shields in the case of 214) approximately 3/4" from the inner end (where the outer covering is cut).

4. Be careful not to cut too deeply...just enough to get thru the braid.

5. Strip the braid away. This leaves the inner conductor and its covering, plus the tinned part of the braid.

6. Using any common wire stripper, strip the inner conductor covering back to about 1/8" from the tinned braid.

7. Fit a new PL-259 over the coax and SCREW it onto the outer covering. This takes some force, and is most easily done in a vice or by holding the connector gently with a pair of pliers.

8. Watch thru the holes in the PL-259, and screw it onto the coax just enough so that the tinned braid completely covers the holes from the inside. Stop..that's enough screwing (who'da thunk it?).

9. Solder the tip and the braid thru the 4 holes. Cut off any excess of the tip.

10. Finish up by: (a) testing with a meter to be sure there's continuity and no short; and (b) putting adhesive heat shrink over the coax and 1/2" or so of the barrel (AFTER the screw-on part of the connector has been slid into place!).

Neat. Secure. Functional. Durable.

Try a couple first...you'll get the hang of it, then swear by this method as I do. Take your time.

When I get time, I'll take and post some pix of this on my website.

Bill
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post #6 of 7 Old 06-11-2009 Thread Starter
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With some modifications, I'm generally with Bill's technique...except the part about using ordinary wire strippers to *shrug* peel away the center conductor covering. I defy anyone to just slide it off...that's the part that irritates me.

Incidentally, that center conductor, with said covering makes a reasonable substitute for GTO-15 . It isn't long term UV protected, but it has comparable or superior insulation qualities/

Anyway, comments are appreciated, many thanks.
Howard Keiper
Berkeley
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post #7 of 7 Old 06-11-2009
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I dunno. I have done video installations with 120 connectors on Belden 8281 75 ohm coax. 240 connectors spread across 4 racks from video patch bays to routers to my video servers. Each server required 5 BNCs (1 composite video, 3 component video and 1 blackburst timing). Cutting component video cables to exact lengths took as long as the connectors. Doing it by manually without a stripper would have been a nightmare

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