Irwin 37 CC fixed ports - SailNet Community

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  #1  
Old 06-25-2009
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Irwin 37 CC fixed ports

My 1978 fixed ports are leaking and one is cracked. I can see that the inside frame rivets have to be drilled out and that will remove the frame. But the plexyglass looks to be mounted in a recess in the cabin top from the outside. Is it just setting in the recess and held in w/ adhesive? If so, then do I need to even take out the frame on the inside? There is not a frame of any type on the outside. My thoughts are to replace the cracked one and then re bed the others. I am then going to put oversized plexyglass ports over the stock fixed ports. As in this article:
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-m...ted-ports.html
Double the plexy should keep it from leaking for many years to come. But, first I need to understand the mounting of these stock ports. Any help and thanks.
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Old 06-26-2009
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Give maritime plastics in annapolis a call, they should be able to help, they do many of these,
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Old 06-26-2009
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Dont put screws in your new ports, they will only leak again when they crack, which eventually they will. the new generation sealnts will hold without mechanical fastenings
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Old 06-29-2009
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The more I look at how they are put in there. It looks as if they are just held in with adhesive sealant. Am I correct. Can I just push from the inside and get them to pop out? I have to replace two that are cracked already. I just do not understand what the aluminum frame is for on the inside except for cosmetic reasons. What is happening is the water is getting between the top side and the headliner pan andd leaking out in all kinds of places. I recalked today. But, I would much whether rebed and repair. Anyone know how to remove these fixed ports. Thanks
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Old 06-29-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsarg1 View Post
Anyone know how to remove these fixed ports. Thanks
Ahoy

This might help. I just did mine in the last month.

IrwinCitation34 - Replacing non-opening ports

Rik
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Old 06-29-2009
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great info. I thought that they were just setting in there. I guess the aluminum frame is just to finish off the interior. I think I will fix the two that are cracked and then do another window like you did over the replacement ports. I am truly wanting a leak proof repair. Thanks again
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Old 11-12-2009
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what thickness of lexan?

rikhall,
What thickness of lexan did you use. Are the ports still working as you planned? Thanks in advance

henry.bartlett@us.army.mil
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Old 11-12-2009
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You're best to use plexiglass as opposed to lexan. The plexi will last many times longer than lexan which is destroyed by uv. Plexi also doesn't scratch as easily. All major manufacturers use plexiglass (acrylic) instead of lexan for these reasons. If the cabin side has a recess I would cut the plexi to fit in that recess with a bit of an allowance for expansion and bolt a trim piece to the cabin side with the holes going through the trim and cabin only, not the plexi as that is a future failure point. This way the plexi is floating in sealant - silicone preferred and not stressed at bolt holes. I'm in the same situation as you but don't have the luxury of a cabin side recess. My neighbor's boat was done this way with smoked plexi and other than a few small marks looks original and no leaks - it was built in 1966.
Brian
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Old 11-12-2009
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thanks for the info

I gig not know lexan was not UV protected.
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Old 11-12-2009
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It isn't that Lexan or Polycarbonate isn't UV-protected, but more that while Lexan or polycarbonate can be treated with a UV coating, the material itself is inherently more subject to UV degradation than acrylic.
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I gig not know lexan was not UV protected.
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