Chainplate rebedding with mast up - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 32 Old 06-26-2009
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Sorry, I meant 3M 4000, not 3M 5200. I agree 5200 would be a very bad idea.
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post #12 of 32 Old 06-26-2009
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That's a different story. much better choice...
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Sorry, I meant 3M 4000, not 3M 5200. I agree 5200 would be a very bad idea.

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post #13 of 32 Old 06-26-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josrulz View Post
My main question is, do I need to disconnect lowers on both sides evenly, or is it OK to leave them on one side, but disconnect the other to work on them? I wasn't sure if the lop-sided pull would be problematic, or OK for a few hours of work.
I would recommend first easing all the turnbuckles a few turns just to take the strain off. Then you will have no problem removing shrouds either in pairs or singly. Halyards aren't really necessary, but they sure can't hurt. Sometimes, you can hook the shrouds back up temporarily to the rail too. Just don't load em up.
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post #14 of 32 Old 06-26-2009 Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I did mine with 3M 4000 UV. I did the first chainplates and all the stancions on Saturday. On Sunday I reattached the lifelines and the upper shrouds and rebedded the lower shroud chainplates. Monday I just had to reattach the lower shrouds and tune the rig. 101 has a longer cure time than 5200. I would not want to load the rig until the sealant cures, but maybe I am just being superstitious.
I've been told before that with 3M 101, you want to load everything up before it cures anyway (just relaying info here). As one Sailnet member stated at the time, if you're chainplates are moving enough to break the seal, then you have bigger problems than choice of sealant.

I rebedded a very leaky chainplate with 3M 101 this spring, a few days before the mast was stepped. We sailed the boat offshore to get her home in pouring rain and waves, and have since had days on the Chesapeake, pounding to weather with green water over the decks. That chainplate still isn't leaking.

Of course, that's no scientific test--it was only been a few months, and I'm no expert here. But I'll try this again, and see how it goes. I'll report back if I run into problems down the line.

Sooo, any votes on whether I should remove the lowers on BOTH sides at the same time, or can I do one side at a time and leave the other side connected? Or does it matter?

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post #15 of 32 Old 06-26-2009
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SD, How do you figure that 5200 isn't flexible enough to bed chainplates? How big a gap do you leave around them anyway? I'm holding a cured chunk in my hands right now. Squeezing it between the jaws of my Leatherman. The stuff feels like a piece of rubber.
If you have a gap of about a 32nd to an 1/8 of an inch around the plate, how could it not work?
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post #16 of 32 Old 06-26-2009
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hell i sailed my boat home with out an upper shroud, granted i did it under a reef and no head sail and 5 knot winds
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post #17 of 32 Old 06-26-2009
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How old is that chunk, the stuff loses flexibility and elasticity as it cures and ages...
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SD, How do you figure that 5200 isn't flexible enough to bed chainplates? How big a gap do you leave around them anyway? I'm holding a cured chunk in my hands right now. Squeezing it between the jaws of my Leatherman. The stuff feels like a piece of rubber.
If you have a gap of about a 32nd to an 1/8 of an inch around the plate, how could it not work?

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post #18 of 32 Old 06-26-2009
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I think the best reason not to use 5200 is that it's so adhesive, if you ever have to remove it (and you will eventually) that it will pull gelcoat off underlying glass structure. Sure you want the sealant to stick to what you're bedding, but not to that extent. 5200's 700 psi is not needed, 4000/4200's
300 psi is plenty.
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post #19 of 32 Old 06-26-2009
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Exactly... and for something like chainplates, where the fit depends on the strength of the pieces, and does not rely on sealant for strength... butyl tape is an excellent choice, since it is very elastic and sticky, but not very strong.
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I think the best reason not to use 5200 is that it's so adhesive, if you ever have to remove it (and you will eventually) that it will pull gelcoat off underlying glass structure. Sure you want the sealant to stick to what you're bedding, but not to that extent. 5200's 700 psi is not needed, 4000/4200's
300 psi is plenty.
Brian

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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
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her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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post #20 of 32 Old 06-27-2009
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I tried several of the sealants mentioned in this thread. Butyl tape finally sealed it for good.


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