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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #21  
Old 06-27-2009
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Butyl tape is also my first choice as my boat (CS27) had most deck hardware and hull/deck joint sealed with butyl 32 years ago. The hull/deck joint butyl bedding is still flexible after this time and there are not too many other issues except those that are due to poor maintenance by previous owners. My second choice is Sikaflex 291 as I find that some items are not able to be tightened enough to fully squeeze out the butyl when installing such as access ports made of plastic.
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  #22  
Old 06-27-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josrulz View Post
Sooo, any votes on whether I should remove the lowers on BOTH sides at the same time, or can I do one side at a time and leave the other side connected? Or does it matter?

You might have missed my post.

Quote:
Originally Posted by knothead
I would recommend first easing all the turnbuckles a few turns just to take the strain off. Then you will have no problem removing shrouds either in pairs or singly. Halyards aren't really necessary, but they sure can't hurt. Sometimes, you can hook the shrouds back up temporarily to the rail too. Just don't load em up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mitiempo
I think the best reason not to use 5200 is that it's so adhesive, if you ever have to remove it (and you will eventually) that it will pull gelcoat off underlying glass structure. Sure you want the sealant to stick to what you're bedding, but not to that extent. 5200's 700 psi is not needed, 4000/4200's
300 psi is plenty.
Brian
It's adhesive quality is the thing I like best about it.

I've used it, removed it and wore it for years, along with just about every other goop out there. It's certainly more resilient and stubborn, but it comes off. And if you tear up the boat in the process, it's not the goop's fault, it's because you didn't take your time and do it right.
5200 is not invincible.

There are applications where it is more critical to use a specific substance or material. But for the most part, it's not the goop you choose it's how much you choose to ooze. HA.

Seriously, it's usually not the fact that the wrong product was used that is causing the leak, the problem lies in the fact that the thing is really overdue for maintenance.

But everyone has their opinion.
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  #23  
Old 06-27-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knothead View Post
It's adhesive quality is the thing I like best about it.

I've used it, removed it and wore it for years, along with just about every other goop out there. It's certainly more resilient and stubborn, but it comes off. And if you tear up the boat in the process, it's not the goop's fault, it's because you didn't take your time and do it right.
5200 is not invincible.
I agree and have used 5200 and it has held up well on the chainplates and also the stantions. When I had to remove the radar pole which was also beded with 5200, the attachment point came apart without use of heat or chemicals. When I use the stuff I don't expect to take it apart again, but it is doable with some effort and care.
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  #24  
Old 06-28-2009
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Thanks everyone. I didn't reply sooner since I was out on the boat this weekend. I appreciate all the responses and help.
Best,
J
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  #25  
Old 06-28-2009
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Originally Posted by knothead
I would recommend first easing all the turnbuckles a few turns just to take the strain off. Then you will have no problem removing shrouds either in pairs or singly. Halyards aren't really necessary, but they sure can't hurt. Sometimes, you can hook the shrouds back up temporarily to the rail too. Just don't load em up.

Knothead,
You must be speaking of a keel stepped mast. Certainly a deck stepped mast will have to have something holding it up. On a deck stepped mast are halyards OK while the chainplates are rebed. My upper and lower both go to the same place and i need to rebed but am nervous about taking the shrouds loose
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Old 06-28-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackytdunaway View Post
Knothead,
You must be speaking of a keel stepped mast. Certainly a deck stepped mast will have to have something holding it up. On a deck stepped mast are halyards OK while the chainplates are rebed. My upper and lower both go to the same place and i need to rebed but am nervous about taking the shrouds loose
Hi jackytdunaway, I certainly can't speak for knothead, but your question made me realize I should have specified that I have a keel-stepped mast. You're absolutely right that would make a huge difference.
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  #27  
Old 06-28-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackytdunaway View Post
Originally Posted by knothead
I would recommend first easing all the turnbuckles a few turns just to take the strain off. Then you will have no problem removing shrouds either in pairs or singly. Halyards aren't really necessary, but they sure can't hurt. Sometimes, you can hook the shrouds back up temporarily to the rail too. Just don't load em up.

Knothead,
You must be speaking of a keel stepped mast. Certainly a deck stepped mast will have to have something holding it up. On a deck stepped mast are halyards OK while the chainplates are rebed. My upper and lower both go to the same place and i need to rebed but am nervous about taking the shrouds loose
You notice that I only recommended "easing" all the turnbuckles.
You only "disconnect" them when you are ready and only, as I mentioned, singly or in pairs. One on each side at a time.
Sorry, I thought that was clear.
Since we are only talking about shrouds, not stays here, there is no problem removing both upper shrouds at the same time. Or both Aft lowers. Or the starboard aft lower and the port forward lower.
You get the idea. Whether it's keel stepped or deck stepped, it makes no difference. As long as you have a couple of shrouds on each side holding the mast up, you're OK.

The reason for easing the turnbuckles initially is simply to keep the mast more or less in column when you remove a shroud or two.

I've had both uppers off and been hanging from a bosun's chair from the main halyard with both shrouds coiled and tied to the chair and about 20 lbs of tools while hanging from the main halyard. Lots of times.
Although I usually, as mentioned, only take one of each off and duplicate it twice when making new shrouds.
The point is, if you could take the mast and lay it on saw horses, you could support it in the middle and walk all the way out to the end and it wouldn't break. It's going to bounce like heck, but it's not going to break.
Just like being up the mast on a Freedom or one of those freestanding Hunters. It's disconcerting, but hardly dangerous.
And we aren't even talking about going aloft here. Just replacing chainplates.
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  #28  
Old 06-28-2009
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What i am trying to figure out is with a deck stepped mast and only a single chain plate on each side (the upper and lower both go to it) can i take both loose and leave only halyards to supprt the mast (along with the stays) while i rebed the chainplates
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  #29  
Old 06-29-2009
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i am bumping this back up. i really hope to hear from someone that has done this with a deck stepped mast
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  #30  
Old 06-29-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackytdunaway View Post
What i am trying to figure out is with a deck stepped mast and only a single chain plate on each side (the upper and lower both go to it) can i take both loose and leave only halyards to supprt the mast (along with the stays) while i rebed the chainplates

In a case such as yours where there is only one chainplate you must use halyards to support the mast. It's either that or just unstep the mast.
What I do is hook up the halyards first. Then disconnect the upper shroud turnbuckle from the chainplate and hook it up temporarily to the toe rail, a midship cleat or something. It can even be lashed on. You don't want to load it up too much, but you don't need much just to hold the mast up. After you temporarily hook the upper back up, go ahead and remove the lower.
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