Teak oil vs. synthetics for the tropics?

[eolon]

It's a known fact that Ohio gets harsher sun than anywhere in the tropics. This is due to the refraction of light from fresh water, which is more direct and contains more UV rays than salt water light. Also, the angular momentum of the higher latitudes results in an apparent sun angle which is

...oh, never mind.


Best Regards,


e

.::.

[eryka]

Originally Posted by eolon

It's a known fact that Ohio gets harsher sun than anywhere in the tropics. This is due to the refraction of light from fresh water, which is more direct and contains more UV rays than salt water light. Also, the angular momentum of the higher latitudes results in an apparent sun angle which is

...oh, never mind.


Best Regards,


e

.::.

Good one, e!
Here in Maryland where the water is murky and green, I suspect the opposite is true. Isn't there a special correction factor if you're using a sextant in Ohio? Or was that a Rust Belt correction factor for your compass? Meanwhile we're still stripping teak.

Just wanted to get "sex" and "strip" in the same post on a sunny Friday!

[eolon]

Sextant? What is that? I thought this was a family-oriented forum!

Best Regards,

e

.::.

[labatt]

I just wanted to point out that hot does not equal lots of UV. It can get over 90 for weeks straight up north, but our Wood Pro Plus (West Marine branded Epifanes synthetic) has failed after 3 months due to the UV rays of the Bahamas and southern FL. Temperatures in the Bahamas were in the 80's, but the UV level is MUCH higher than up north, and that's what causes the breakdown of the chemicals. We also had lines deteriorate, our teak deck split in a couple of places, sunbrella degradation, etc. UV is VERY tough on boats, so I understand Eryka's question. Our next trial is to use Cetol Light plus the Cetol clearcoat on top of it. The clearcoat stuff is supposed to have added UV protectorates.

[lancelot9898]

Originally Posted by labatt

The clearcoat stuff is supposed to have added UV protectorates.

Where did you hear this?

I've always just used the cetrol without the clearcoat thinking that the clearcoat was the weaker of the two products?? After about 10 years of the regular cetrol and the subsequent darker appearance with time and coat build up, I removed all the old cetol and switched to cetol natural and it is looking good. As time goes on we'll see if coat build up and uv exposure darkens the teak. It's been 2 years and counting.

[eolon]

Cetol Marine,the original, wonderful, stuff, contains iron oxide (rust) as UV absorber. Iron oxide is absolutely excellent for UV protection over a wide frequency and for long duration. It imparts a characteristic "rust" color, for some unknown reason, if you build up a lot of coats, and can get quite dark. Some people don't like this, so new formulations of Cetol, "Light" and "clear" and "whatever" are available.

TANSTAAFL, as the great Robert Heinlein used to say: "There ain't no such thing as a free lunch" The great thing about Cetol Marine is it lasts a very long time, especially if you maintain it and fix scrapes and dings right away. The new flavors do not last as long; they can't - they don't have as much UV protection.

Personally, I'd rather be sailing, or drinking at anchor, than varnishing. =)


Best Regards,

e


.::.

[eryka]

Originally Posted by eolon

Personally, I'd rather be sailing, or drinking at anchor, than varnishing. =)

By that (very wise) logic we should just allow the teak to gray naturally, and pour a rum! I like it!

It fascinates me to look at the boats on our dock. They alternate, we have two with gleaming immaculate wood, and two that are a bit rough-looking. The sad part is that the two with gleaming wood, we've only seen one owner twice and the other for one week. Both must be too busy working to afford to pay the guys who maintain the teak, etc etc. One has been taped off ready to varnish for a MONTH, he hasn't started the job yet, and I'd hate to think about getting the tape back off after its baked in the sun (even though it's the green stuff that's supposed to release for <60 days). The slightly rough-looking ones are away from their slips almost every weekend.

[eryka]

Originally Posted by eolon

Cetol Marine,the original, wonderful, stuff, contains iron oxide (rust) as UV absorber. Iron oxide is absolutely excellent for UV protection over a wide frequency and for long duration. It imparts a characteristic "rust" color, for some unknown reason, if you build up a lot of coats, and can get quite dark. Some people don't like this, so new formulations of Cetol, "Light" and "clear" and "whatever" are available.

We used the original rusty Cetol stuff on our cockpit table, 8 or 9 years ago. It has needed no maintenance at all, and the finish is still just like it was the day we put it on. But that's because I find it so ugly that we never use it - if I wanted an orange cockpit table I could've used plastic. I also found the finish to be slightly soft. Maybe that's a side effect of the formulation they did to avoid having brush strokes show? Anyway, I was underwhelmed with the whole thing.

[camaraderie]

Lance/Eolon...Cetol GLOSS DOES provide UV protection. From the Sikkens website...

"Cetol Marine Gloss

Cetol® Marine Gloss is a durable, clear gloss protective wood finished that has been formulated specifically for use as a topcoat for the Cetol® Marine range of wood treatments whenever a gloss finish is desired.
Application

The Cetol Marine range can be used on exterior and interior wood, including hardwoods like teak, mahogany and oak. Cetol products should only be applied to wood surfaces above the waterline.It provides a high gloss, hard wearing and easy to clean finish with UV protection. Due to the level of gloss it is not suitable for use on decks neither is it recommended for use direct to wood as a clear varnish."
**********

The REASONS to use gloss is:
1. NO buildup of darkening color coats over time.
2. Looks MUCH better than any of the other Cetol finishes in flat...a more varnished look.
3. Touch up and renewal requires no sanding/soft scrub brush and more gloss is all that is needed and a decent foam brush works fine.

Eryka...the NATURAL TEAK undercoat with gloss on top looks NOTHING like the original.

[RichH]

The problem is the various offered formulations of Cetol is that when it, eventually over years, builds to a thick coating, ... it will CRACK/craze. Its a hard alkyd base that doesnt flex. like "spar' varnish nor the other softer or flexible 'modern' coating systems. If you've ever had the 'pleasure' of removing/stripping broken/cracked Cetol you'll rue the day you ever put this 'stuff' on your brightwork.