Teak oil vs. synthetics for the tropics?

[mightyhorton]

I'm a Cetol Marine guy, have been for many years. My teak decks are gone, so I'm dealing with caprails and eyebrows and handrails outside the cockpit. Today I gave my caprail a quick light sanding to smooth the old Cetol and clean a couple of bare spots, maybe 15 minutes worth per side, and wiped on my first coating of Cetol, which took maybe another 15 minutes per side. Tomorrow I'll get outside early and wipe on another coat, tomorrow evening a third coat, and the next day a coat or two of clear. This will last 5 or 6 months in the Mexican sun. I've never had cetol build up on me, it seems to almost sublimate or something. It is so quick and easy and really does protect my teak and looks nice. It isn't orange or whatever somebody said. Varnish looks better but it is so much work. I leave the cockpit teak bare, but it isn't really in the sun so much thanks to the dodger and a big bimini.

[gtod25]

Check out my most recent blog entry, if you are still trying to decide.

Gerry

[camaraderie]

Gerry...great side by side comparison!

RichH...Cracking and Crazing??? No way unless you're just slathering on coat after coat of the old Cetol. Oh and YES...I have scraped old cetol off down to the bare wood and it is at LEAST as easy to remove as varnish. Point being...do that ONCE and never again if you use the 2Natural+2Gloss coat approach with touchups.
Horton's and Gtod's experience is exactly like mine. GTods 80/20 rule is exactly how I see it...80% of the beauty of varnish with 20% of the ongoing effort.

[lancelot9898]

Originally Posted by camaraderie

The REASONS to use gloss is:
1. NO buildup of darkening color coats over time.
2. Looks MUCH better than any of the other Cetol finishes in flat...a more varnished look.
3. Touch up and renewal requires no sanding/soft scrub brush and more gloss is all that is needed and a decent foam brush works fine.

Eryka...the NATURAL TEAK undercoat with gloss on top looks NOTHING like the original.

I did remove the original cetol that built up over a 10 year time period and then applied the natural teak cetol. It's been close to 2 years now and have done one maintenance coat and so far no darkening. I did not top off with the gloss since my neighbor on the boat next to mine used the gloss and his wood is dark. However I did not see how it orginally looked so maybe it's not due to the gloss but due to the teak itself or his prep work. Even though the cetol website states that the gloss has UV inhibitors, it does not say if the other stuff has more inhibitors which I suspect is the case. Another neighbor has used the cetol light and his teak looks orange. The natural teak cetol is a better product than the orginal cetol IMHO and time will tell if the darkening will occur, but even if so getting ten years worth of life out of a product with minimal yearly maintenance is not bad even if it is a pain to remove much like varnish. I wonder if the cetol folks recommend using the gloss for yearly maintenance as opposed to just the natural cetol? I can't tell by the directions on their can.

[petmac]

I've used Cetol for years and it only really looks bad after you let it build up too much. Currently I am using Epiphanes on my brightwork and Cetol natural on my seats and cockpit grate. Think the secret to maintaining varnish is regular maintenance coats (every six months-2 coats) and start with an initial 8 coats at minimum. Any dings or breaks in varnish should be touched up right away to prevent water from getting under varnish. Last teak that I bought was around $12-$15 bd ft but I used to be in the lumber business.

Originally Posted by RichH

For teak decks I use a mixture of 1/3 Teak Wonder, 1/3 Semco Natural, 1/3 Olympic Deck (carmel). For prep I wash/etch with TSP, then bleach with Oxalic Acid then Clorox to bring the teak to a 'light' color. The 'mix' prevents the 'ugly greys', isnt slippery when wet, seals the seams and bungs, is light in color so it doesnt soak all that much 'heat'. 2-3 coats followed by a coat every 6 mos. is all that it takes; although burying the bow under green water on long passages will lessen the 6 mos. requirement. Teak is expensive nowadays (~$35.00/ bd. ft.) so its probably a good idea to protect it.

For 'bright' I use "Honey Teak" (Signature Finish and Honey Teak Products - Home) - if properly applied will last upwards to 10-12 years in hot sun, requires a yearly clear 'slop coat'. VERY expensive, has a high learning curve to make it last. Catalyzed 2 part base + 2 part top clear coat - can be applied wet on wet (with some time to allow catalysis) on horizontal surfaces but needs some cure time for vertical surfaces. Mfg. recommends 2 base coats but I apply three THICK coats to insure longevity. Looks like butt ugly Cetol for first month after application but then quickly fades to a clear amber hue very similar to oil based varnish. Probably the closest synthetic coating to varnish ... as its quite 'transparent' (after 30 days cure).

Can be flat sanded and hand-rubbed (or power buffed using 3M perfect-it & 3M finese-it) for the most brilliant, most glossy finish that will equate to a "hinckley type varnish job" ... (handrubbing will develop a glowing irridescent 'patina' of the surface wood cells - just like on 'prime' varnish jobs). Is a urethane/acrylic copolymer; therefore it can be 'powerbuffed'. Must be applied THICK for good service life; if applied 'thin' will quickly fail in UV exposure. Shouldn't be applied if dewpoint is rising and temp. is dropping - greatly retards the catalyizing/cure. Can be applied to hot surfaces but best is applied to COLD (45-50°degF.) so that you get good 'flow-out'. Apply with quality foam brushes or 'soft' artist brushes. Needs to be 'scuffed' with 3M purple pad between cured coats or when applying yearly maintenance coat.

Manufacturer will supply 'splits' - just the amount you need to do the job. Downside is that user must carefully mix the proper percentages of the components (HT, catalyst, thinner). Its expensive but when you amortize over the service life (including the 1-2 year maintenance coats) its probably the most economical overall. HIGH learning curve: but, If done right will make a Hinckley blush with envy and will last up to 10-12 years (with yearly quick 'maintenance' clear coat).