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post #1 of 9 Old 11-23-2002 Thread Starter
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bedding compounds

Any advice out there on bedding compounds. I removed all deck hardware as prep for an Awlgrip paint job on my decks and cabin. The paint application was done by my local yard. Very nicely done using Awlgrip xxtra course nonskid on the runways. All hardware to be replaced is through bolted or screwed into plywood covered w/cloth and West epoxy. I''m not interested in the compound having adheasive properties. I want something that is going to give a good bond yet remains somwhat flexible and MOST important not to allow the enemy in. Any first hand knowledge would be appreciated.
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post #2 of 9 Old 11-23-2002
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bedding compounds

I love polysulfide. I use it almost exclusively. I remains flexible through out it''s life and, properly applied, is an excellent sealant. It has solved more than one leaky hardware problem on my boat, especially around my portslights were the previous 30 year old polysulfide finally gave out.

One tip: when you apply polysulfide and attach the hardware, just snuggly tighten and let the polysulfide cure for a few days, then come back and wench it home. If you tighen too much when the sealant is first applied, you''ll just squeeze it out from under what your are trying to bed and not have a proper seal. Letting it cure first and then squeezing it will make sure the sealant stays where you want it - under your hardware.
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post #3 of 9 Old 11-23-2002
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bedding compounds

Hi
3m 5200!!! White or black. Use sparingly. be sure that you don''t need to remove what ever you put on with it as it seals and sets flexable for life. It sticks and seals regardless of moisture and even sets under water. Nothing disolves it once it is set. Not Gas Diesel thinner acetone or mek. it adhears to wood metal glass and figerglass as well as skin. It can also be painted over once set.
Jim
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post #4 of 9 Old 11-23-2002
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bedding compounds

Do not use 5200 unless you plan on NEVER removing the item bedded it is a royal pain in the ass to remove. Use 4200 or other similiar sealants. You will be surprised how many properly sealed/bedded fittings will leak when the the boat is launched or rained on,
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post #5 of 9 Old 11-23-2002
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bedding compounds

I point out you removed your hardware to awlgrip you boat, something that you may have to do again in the distant future. Stick with polysulfide. It will easily out last your paint job.
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post #6 of 9 Old 11-24-2002
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bedding compounds

Polysulfide, polyurathane(5200) and silicone all have their proper places.
Polysulfide should be used when the item being bedded will have to be removed some time in the not to distant future. It''s sealing and adhesive properties are very good(it also can take gelcoat with it when removing a bedded item)but not extremely long lasting and should not be used for things like cap rails, cleats hull-to-deck joints etc.
I''m quite fond of polysulfide,about the only thing(besides the smell) that I don''t like is that it cannot be cleaned-up with denatured alcohol.It has to be cleaned-up with serious solvants like laquer thinner or mineral spirits and because of this it is harder to clean.
5200 is my personal favorite.It''s bonding and sealing properties are excellant will last decades and is cleaned-up easily with denatured alcohol.Do not use isopropal alcohol because it has water in it and tends to smear and not remove.
5200 and polysulfied bedded items CAN be removed. This works for me: After applying , tighten down to 1/8 of an inch, clean the edges with denatured alcohol, let the compound cure completely, then tighten down the rest of the way. This means you have to apply it thicker so that later(much later)you can use a long bladed flexible knife to cut the bedded item free. Some people use a hacksaw blade. A bread knife is what I use.There is a new product on the market that claims to break down polysulfide and polyurathane, but I''ve yet to use it.
Silicone is a poor adesive but a pretty fair sealant does not last a very long time and is unsuitable for 90%-95% of all aplications. I never use this stuff except for plastic ports.Polysulfide and polyurathane will attack the plastic.
If you use silicone with fixed portlights, like the ones on Bayliner power boats,it has to be applied to the base surface in a bead then the window put in place and the screws tightened until you start to see the bead spreading out. Then, since it cures so quickly, finish tightening in a half hour.
With the other two sealants in mention you can be more "careless" in the application but silicone is a poor adhisive so for lasting power it is a little trickier to apply.

Dennis
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post #7 of 9 Old 11-25-2002
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bedding compounds

I refinished my deck last year. My favourite is 4200 above the waterline and 5200 below.

When removing fittings for the refinish job several had been rebedded the previous spring with 4200. They did come off but were a bit tenacious. And of course the above postings are correct ... some rebedded items will leak and require redoing.

Have fun! There are an awful lot of fittings on a sailboat deck!

Regards

Mike
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post #8 of 9 Old 09-06-2009
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I know this is an old thread, but I struggle with Polysulfides attach plastics part. I am changing out some deck fittings that came new from the factory with urethane base plates. Will a poylsulfide sealant destroy this plate?

Last edited by Crapaud; 09-06-2009 at 12:25 PM.
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post #9 of 9 Old 09-06-2009
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Find some Dolphinite. . .I just picked up a quart can at a chandlery for $12: they were on sale due to being "old." West Marine charges $40 for the "new" stuff.
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