Fresh Water cooling water dirty brown - Page 2 - SailNet Community

   Search Sailnet:

 forums  store  


Quick Menu
Forums           
Articles          
Galleries        
Boat Reviews  
Classifieds     
Search SailNet 
Boat Search (new)

Shop the
SailNet Store
Anchor Locker
Boatbuilding & Repair
Charts
Clothing
Electrical
Electronics
Engine
Hatches and Portlights
Interior And Galley
Maintenance
Marine Electronics
Navigation
Other Items
Plumbing and Pumps
Rigging
Safety
Sailing Hardware
Trailer & Watersports
Clearance Items

Advertise Here






Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
 Not a Member? 
  #11  
Old 07-30-2009
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,174
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rep Power: 14
k1vsk will become famous soon enough
Just do an online search for Yanmar parts, Yanmarhelp.com, or Yanmarmarine.com, or for part numbers call Torreson Marine.

By the way, your impeller has definitely seen better days and should be replaced.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #12  
Old 07-30-2009
garymcg's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 110
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 9
garymcg is on a distinguished road
ebay

Current yanmar part number is 124223-42092


I picked up a couple on ebay for $19.95 each but I don't see any on there currently. Torreson has them for $33.74:

Yanmar 124223-42092 Ships Store Torresen

Gary
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #13  
Old 07-30-2009
RichH's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,821
Thanks: 9
Thanked 73 Times in 66 Posts
Rep Power: 15
RichH will become famous soon enough
How long has this engine been sitting idle?

"Brown" coloration of the cooling water is most probably a symptom of the antifreeze's rust inhibitors being consumed. In cast iron engine blocks the normal course of action is - the constantly flowing HOT water produces a layer of 'black' or 'blue-black' ferrous rust ... and this is protective. Upon long standing and without repeated heat/hot cycles the ferrous oxide slowly converts back to "red" or ferric oxide which is destructive. Long term storing such an engine by draining it (but leaving high humidity in the cooling passages) is the worst possible scenario with respect to ferrous to ferric oxide formation.

Suggest you drain the brown water, refill with at least 50:50 mix of antifreeze/water .... then RUN THE HELL OUT OF THE ENGINE (hours and days) to be sure that you redevelop the important 'black' ferrous oxide (black rust) layer inside all the cooling passages and channels; make sure that the engine is 'soaked' with 180 def. F water temp.

If the engine HAS been recently and long term been run hard and hot .... change as above and if the discoloration reappears, .... then check for a 'blown head gasket'. Your local 'automotive machinist shop' can give you 'tips' on adding a 'blacklight' dye to the water, etc. to check for blowby carbon monoxide/dioxide in the cooling water ... from a blown head gasket.
:-)

Last edited by RichH; 07-30-2009 at 02:24 PM.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #14  
Old 07-30-2009
sailak's Avatar
Crealock 37
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Alaska
Posts: 478
Thanks: 13
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
Rep Power: 8
sailak is on a distinguished road
Rich,

I just bought the boat in May. It had been out twice before I took possession. It had probably set since Sep or Oct of the year before (long stinkin' winters up here ).

I've run it quite a bit. Several times of motoring for 2-3 hours at a stretch (I use 2600-2800 RPM for cruise).

Would a head-gasket problem show up in the exhaust as well? smoke perhaps? I haven't seen any symptoms of any problems, other than ugly coolant fluid.
__________________
Dale

S/V Elnora
Pacific Seacraft "Crealock" 37 #312

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #15  
Old 07-30-2009
sailak's Avatar
Crealock 37
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Alaska
Posts: 478
Thanks: 13
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
Rep Power: 8
sailak is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by k1vsk View Post
By the way, your impeller has definitely seen better days and should be replaced.
Those large scars I think are from the grips when I removed it.

So those little striations along the edge of the paddle are a big deal? Or is there something else you're seeing that I don't?

Thanks
__________________
Dale

S/V Elnora
Pacific Seacraft "Crealock" 37 #312

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #16  
Old 07-30-2009
sailak's Avatar
Crealock 37
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Alaska
Posts: 478
Thanks: 13
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
Rep Power: 8
sailak is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by garymcg View Post
Current yanmar part number is 124223-42092
That's what I found searching the 'net. The part I put in was a -42091 - which I'm not finding any reference to but matched what I took out (it was in the spares kit for the boat).
__________________
Dale

S/V Elnora
Pacific Seacraft "Crealock" 37 #312

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #17  
Old 07-30-2009
RichH's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,821
Thanks: 9
Thanked 73 Times in 66 Posts
Rep Power: 15
RichH will become famous soon enough
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailak View Post
Rich,
Would a head-gasket problem show up in the exhaust as well? smoke perhaps? I haven't seen any symptoms of any problems, other than ugly coolant fluid.
Not necessarily if the leak is very slight but enough to pass high pressure combustion gases into the cooling fluid. Notice any liquid level drop in your reservoir tank? if so the suspicion for a blown head gasket somewhat increases.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #18  
Old 07-31-2009
sailak's Avatar
Crealock 37
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Alaska
Posts: 478
Thanks: 13
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
Rep Power: 8
sailak is on a distinguished road
Thanks Rich

The coolant level is holding steady, no indication I'm losing coolant.

About that sea water pump...what is the pump body made of? It looks like brass or bronze, I'm wondering because I want to get some spare screws and want to minimize the chance of corrosion. As I understand any dissimilar metal is a bad idea.
__________________
Dale

S/V Elnora
Pacific Seacraft "Crealock" 37 #312

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

 
Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may post attachments
You may edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Raw Water Cooling System Questions morgantheship Gear & Maintenance 19 11-17-2008 07:07 PM
A-4 no water thru cooling - starnesent Atomic 4 6 08-20-2007 03:43 PM
Fresh water and head HoffaLives Gear & Maintenance 5 05-13-2007 09:46 PM
Connecting raw water cooling to water heater Northeaster Gear & Maintenance 18 04-28-2007 06:11 PM
Flushing/testing/preping an old water system on a new old boat tenuki Gear & Maintenance 8 04-19-2007 10:33 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:24 AM.

Add to My Yahoo!         
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1
(c) Marine.com LLC 2000-2012

The SailNet.com store is owned and operated by a company independent of the SailNet.com forum. You are now leaving the SailNet forum. Click OK to continue or Cancel to return to the SailNet forum.