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post #21 of 31 Old 08-15-2009 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stillraining View Post
Hey billy...ya might want to give thoes keel bolts a couple quick spins by hand to the right.........
Keel bolts are not a problem on BR -- Keel was formed in steel plate, molten lead was poured into the void while water was sprayed on the plate from the outside to try to hold the temper of the steel. Once the proper amount of lead was in place the lead-filled void was closed with a steel plate welded in place. Top of that plate is the bottom of the bilge sump.

The keel is one thing that won't come loose!! (And thank God, for that!!!)
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post #22 of 31 Old 08-15-2009
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I think it's partly those two and the fact that, for sailors, cars are often simply uninteresting .

Jim
I think for cars when engine breaks you usually can walk away. For boats when engine breaks you usually cannot walk away.

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post #23 of 31 Old 08-17-2009
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Ah, Billy, Billy, Billy.

The reason you are losing your nuts is simple--lack of wrist action.

What, you say?

Imagine this.

You check the torque on a bolt to be 10 foot pounds and with your 3/8 rachette you apply what you think is 10 pounds.

Well--since the center of the socket to the center of your hand is only 6 inches you need 20 pounds of force to achieve the proper torque.

If you are going to play at being a mechanic at least get the tools and manuals related to your equipment and learn how to use them.

Rick
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post #24 of 31 Old 08-17-2009
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I like to use a small line of yellow paint that overlaps the properly torqued bolt and the part of the engine it is attached to. If the nuts begin to work loose the paint line will be out of alignment. Also if you remove the bolt, the line becomes a poor man's torque gauge. When you reinstall the bolt you just line up the yellow line and you're approximately at the same torque as before.

Testors enamel hobby paint and a cheap hobby brush work well.

The yanmar on my last boat had a bolt that liked to come loose that tensioned the alternator. Since it was on the front of the engine I could visually inspect it easily with the little yellow line on the nut.

Hope this helps.

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post #25 of 31 Old 08-19-2009
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Nail polish works well, has a brush inside and dries fast.

Rick
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post #26 of 31 Old 08-19-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timebandit View Post
Locktite on CLEAN fasteners will not come loose unless heated.
RED Loctite needs to be heated. BLUE Loctite is designed to be removed without heat.

Gary H. Lucas
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post #27 of 31 Old 08-20-2009
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Bolt alarms. I think you all need to wire your bolts into a bolt alarm so that after a certain amount of loosening, your fog horn goes off until the bolt is tightened. This will 1) ensure you know when a bolt comes loose, 2) ensure all your neighbors know you have a bolt loose, 3) remove any doubt in your wife's mind that you indeed have a screw loose somewhere.

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post #28 of 31 Old 08-20-2009
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It is possible in our zeal for perfection that we can paint too much.
Paint under a fastener is the fastest way to have it fail.
Years ago, I saw a wheel come off a GT2 car at Mosport. In the end, the failure was blamed on paint. Seems the owner had cleaned her up and painted the wheels, including that little flared portion where the wheel nuts sit.
As the nuts get torqued, it fractures the paint and a little vibration later, viola.
Something to keep in mind.
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post #29 of 31 Old 08-21-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjns View Post
It is possible in our zeal for perfection that we can paint too much.
Paint under a fastener is the fastest way to have it fail.
Years ago, I saw a wheel come off a GT2 car at Mosport. In the end, the failure was blamed on paint. Seems the owner had cleaned her up and painted the wheels, including that little flared portion where the wheel nuts sit.
As the nuts get torqued, it fractures the paint and a little vibration later, viola.
Something to keep in mind.
A good point, though if you paint a small stripe over the bolt AFTER you tighten it, there shouldn't be any paint between the bolt and engine to fracture and let go.

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post #30 of 31 Old 08-21-2009
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Originally Posted by WanderingStar View Post
I've had a similar problem. Everything seems to come loose on the engine. The shaft has come out of the transmission twice underway. Yesterday I repaired it again, also replacing the shaft oil seal (very difficult in such a tight space). One of the tangs on the nut locking mechanism was bent and damaged, I hope my repair lasts. Much of what I've retightened in the last 3 months has stayed tight though.
don't forget the valve cover fasteners i had to snug em up often on the way home. also the fuel return bolts(these are pretty obvious when loose though)

"who za sheet is kingsley zissou"...claus R\V Bellefonte
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