Cockpit drains and check valves

[huguley3]

One of my cockpit drains is really slow. I suspect the check valve is clogged with something. I see on here that check valves are not really recommended and the lines should be crossed.

So as long as I am down there should I remove the other check valve? For a 1 inch hose it does not drain as fast as I think it should so it may be partly clogged up as well.

Also one of the drain fittings in the cockpit has a screen and the other does not. Any other islander owners able to comment on which is the original one? Maybe just replace then both so they match?

[mitiempo]

If your cockpit sole is a few inches above the waterline and the drain hoses are crossed you have no need of check valves. They shouldn't be there anyway. If you replace the hoses make sure they have smooth inside walls for less restricted flow. A simple screen that doesn't restrict flow much is a good idea. While you're below the cockpit exercise the valves - they seldom get closed and should be moved regularly.
Brian

[timebandit]

I just have one drain that used to plug with pine neddles when I washed the boat.

A toilet plunger and 1 inch of water in the cockpit, cleand them right out.

I now have a stainless screen from the dollar store to keep things out of the drain hose.

[OhioTom]

A 1" drain hose sounds very small for a 30' boat. I'd think closer to 2" would be a great improvement.

I'd check to see if the hoses are the correct length as well. If not, they can kink and restrict flow.

[huguley3]

I am hoping to speed up its draining. Right now its kind of a hassle to even wash the cockpit as we stand to the side with the fast drain and rinse to that direction. It takes a bit of time to even get the rinse water out. The cockpit sole is a pretty good distance above the waterline.

Its a coastal cruiser so not having lots of big drains is the norm from what I understand.

The most annoying thing about the setup is that the starboard drain is in the quarter berth. So if it ever leaks its going to soak the cushion. It seems like the designers were a few inches off in their calculations. The cushion even has a little circle sewn into it on the end where the hose sits.

[mitiempo]

I was just looking at your blog. It looks like the aft end of your cockpit well is close to the transom and you say the sole is a good distance above the waterline. What I would do is glass in two fibreglass pipes, one at each aft corner of the well, angled down through the transom. Install exhaust flaps on the outboard end to stop water splashing in. Straight pipes of 2" size will move a lot of water. I would also check the current drains and replace hose as necessary with smooth inside wall hose but keep the same size.
I have somewhat the same problem as you. My CS27 has 1 1/2" drains that are quite slow and are on each side of the well not at either end but in the middle. This is what I will do next haulout and I am sure it will solve the problem.
Brian

[huguley3]

Originally Posted by mitiempo

I was just looking at your blog. It looks like the aft end of your cockpit well is close to the transom and you say the sole is a good distance above the waterline. What I would do is glass in two fibreglass pipes, one at each aft corner of the well, angled down through the transom.
Brian

I was considering something like this but I don't have enough fiberglass skills to be reasonably sure it would look decent. maybe in a year or so I will have the confidence to undertake a project that is not easily covered up.

[mitiempo]

If you aren't sure of your fibreglass skills try this. Install a through hull either at the aft end of the sole or low down on the aft vertical part of the well. Install the outlet lower on the transom with or without flap. Align so hose is as straight a run as possible between the two. Glass work is not required this way except cutting 2 holes.
Brian