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Old 12-09-2002
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Reverse Cycle Air Conditioning

I am about to begin installing reverse cycle air on my PSC 34. Given the wealth of experience on this board, i wondered if anyone has insight on any potential pitfalls of the process. Also, I''ve spent lot''s of time worrying over the best location for the raw water through hull below the waterline. Thanks in advance.
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Old 12-09-2002
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Reverse Cycle Air Conditioning

Ray, I''m surely no expert on this but my system has worked great for 6 years after doing the install, so here are a few things that come to mind...
1. Insure the circ pump you install is below the water line (not just the thru-hull that supplies it) so the pump self-primes after the boat''s been out of the water.
2. If that''s not possible, be sure to install a purge valve in the discharge line between the compressor and the hull''s discharge thru-hull, so the pump has a chance to prime itself.
3. Think about what will happen should the condensate line plug up somewhere and the water overflow the small reservoir right underneath the evaporator. I ended up with some wood damage because I didn''t think about this.
4. Draining the condensate directly to the bilge will result in lots of growth opportunties down there. Doing something clever with it (I plumbed mine into the shower sump tank) may tempt it to back up even more (mine did). In a hot Florida summer, it''s amazing how much condensate can be generated while you are shopping and off the boat Saturday morning, so think about this issue carefully.
5. If you are in a hot climate (Gulf Coast, SE Atlantic or Chesapeake in the summer) you probably shouldn''t expect your unit to cool the boat all by itself to ''house/condo-like standards''. It''ll be running itself to death. Try to help it be using awnings, shades (ports & hatches), and setting the thermostat higher than ashore.
6. If you aren''t totally comfortable with the AC wiring job, get help - it can kill you.

Good luck!

Jack
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Old 12-15-2002
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Reverse Cycle Air Conditioning

Jack,
Thanks for the advice. I''m about to drill through on the first through hull (pretty scary!). I''ve got some experience with wiring, so that shouldn''t be too bad. Can you think of any reason why I shouldn''t go straight overboard with the condensate drain? I''m installing the unit well above the water line, so I can use gravity to get it overboard.
Thanks,
Ray
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Old 12-15-2002
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Reverse Cycle Air Conditioning

Ray, I don''t find you in the Member Directory under ray1248 so I couldn''t tell what kind of boat you have or how you use it.

"Can you think of any reason why I shouldn''t go straight overboard with the condensate drain?" If there''s even a slight (1%) chance of putting that condensate thru-hull below the water, you''d risk back-siphoning into the boat. To avoid that, you''ll raise the drain line up and install a siphon break...which defeats the ''gravity drain'' idea.

Jack
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Old 01-13-2003
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Reverse Cycle Air Conditioning

Ray
I am interested in the outcome for the reverse air installation. How did it come out? What did you do with the condesate drain? By the way - what brand?
Jerry
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Old 01-15-2003
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Reverse Cycle Air Conditioning

Where is "ray1248"?
Hope he comes back and updates this. The idea of a condensation drain overboard is not a good one. Just use a condensator and pump it overboard with the cooling outlet.

I only drilled one thru-hull, the outlet for the cooling water, right through the center of the bootstripe. My inlet water is from a T-valve on the engine cooling seacock. Since I do not run the A/C while the engine is running why drill another hole in the bottom of the boat?
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Old 01-16-2003
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Reverse Cycle Air Conditioning

H37 skipper:

"My inlet water is from a T-valve on the engine cooling seacock. Since I do not run the A/C while the engine is running why drill another hole in the bottom of the boat?"

That''s fine as long as it''s a *valve*...and you remember to close it every time you start the engine.

Jack
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