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-   -   Deck paint/ epoxy??? (http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/58031-deck-paint-epoxy.html)

dieselboy 09-15-2009 12:41 AM

Deck paint/ epoxy???
 
Ok, i have searched and searched this forum. I have seen so many opinions on what to use and how to do it that i am even more unsure about how to treat my 39 year old deck than ever..

My Boat is 39 years old and someone panted the deck before me and it looks like crap! It looks more like cracked glass than paint because it has dried out and looks like a house out of the 30's.

So, i need to sand down to the fiberglass/gel coat that i know. Then what??
What should i prep with?
What should i paint with? Gun, roller, brush, Bucket and mop, lol???
What type/ name brand paint,epoxy,??
how should i then seal it??


Now, the boat is in the water. Do i need to pull it out???

These are the questions that keep me up at night ! :confused:
all of the windows are out right now so i would like to move on this soon..

paulk 09-15-2009 08:20 PM

I'd go with 2 part polyurethane. I did our deck about 8 years ago, and now it needs some attention again. If we had used anything but the 2-part, I'd have had to paint it three times by now. It is a lot of work - you don't want to do it more than you have to. Follow the instructions diligently and use the tech hotline and email helpdesks. It will take longer than you think because the weather will not be ideal. Take a day to mask everything you don't want paint to get on. Then take another day to mask the spots you missed the first time. We still have paint spots where I missed the masking, and the stuff is too expensive to have it go where you don't want it. I used a roller & brush. Spray guns clog in my inexpert hands. You may have trouble leaving it in the water while you sand: State DEP types don't like that kind of stuff blowing directly into the water.

mitiempo 09-15-2009 10:55 PM

paulk is right. 2 part polyurethane with brush and roller. The labor is in the prep of the surface, removing hardware and masking etc. It takes just as much prep for cheap paint that needs redoing in 3 years as for a 2 part poly that will last 8 years or longer. Here's the link to Interlux for Perfection, their 2 part poly that is highly recommended.http://www.yachtpaint.com/USA/hotlin...n_bulletin.pdf
Brian

clarity36 09-16-2009 07:03 PM

poly paint
 
Hey Dieselboy - I'm repainting Clarity, using Sterling linear aliphatic polyurethane aircraft grade 2 pack from your country. It seems we don't make top line paints here in oz, and Sterling paints are highly recommended. The finish coat goes on with roller and brush, and is "self-levelling", meaning after a few minutes the brush marks just disappear, and it looks like a sprayed finish. Start with 2 pack epoxy primer, rub it back with 180 grit. Next coat is 2 pack polyurethane primer. Rub that back with 240 grit. Boy, it's smooth by this stage. Then topcoat. Clarity is out of the water for a total refit, on top of a mountain here in Queensland, and we get breeze 9 days out of 10, so a sprayed finish is out of the question. Lots of work, but the paint is expensive, so that kind of balances out the equation. i think

dieselboy 09-17-2009 12:04 PM

Sounds like a plan... So Interlux?
Welcome to GCM Distributor

Snow white is $89.11 per gal which is not bad at all.. Hell, my hot rod paint was $480 per gal.. I was quite relieved to see that price tag after you guys scared me. ;)

dieselboy 09-17-2009 12:35 PM

So, is this the primer? did you guys use primer?
Welcome to GCM Distributor

dieselboy 09-17-2009 01:50 PM

Also how much did you guys use? 1qt, 4 gal? :)
Also thanks for your help in this matter.. :D

dieselboy 09-17-2009 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clarity36 (Post 523356)
Hey Dieselboy - I'm repainting Clarity, using Sterling linear aliphatic polyurethane aircraft grade 2 pack from your country. It seems we don't make top line paints here in oz, and Sterling paints are highly recommended. The finish coat goes on with roller and brush, and is "self-levelling", meaning after a few minutes the brush marks just disappear, and it looks like a sprayed finish. Start with 2 pack epoxy primer, rub it back with 180 grit. Next coat is 2 pack polyurethane primer. Rub that back with 240 grit. Boy, it's smooth by this stage. Then topcoat. Clarity is out of the water for a total refit, on top of a mountain here in Queensland, and we get breeze 9 days out of 10, so a sprayed finish is out of the question. Lots of work, but the paint is expensive, so that kind of balances out the equation. i think

I shot them an e mail but i still have not heard a word back from them on quantity vrs price.. So i have opted to go with the interlux and i just saw a boat with the top side redone via roll on and it looks great..

tommays 09-17-2009 03:24 PM

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/s...ng/badlids.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/s...collection.jpg


http://www.yachtpaint.com/USA/hotlin...n_bulletin.pdf

http://www.yachtpaint.com/USA/hotlin...ion_manual.pdf

You only have a 2 hour pot life to work with the paint and it takes 15 minutes to mix-up each batch to ensure its not full of air bubbles

You will be very affected by the temp down there and pot life will be much less in 90 deg weather compared to 70 :)

dieselboy 09-17-2009 06:37 PM

""You will be very affected by the temp down there and pot life will be much less in 90 deg weather compared to 70 ""

True but at 300% humidity i get a bit more time.. lol.


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